Any1else said:
Out for a drive and the red battery light comes on. Get the car home and check the voltage across the battery and it’s a decent 12v but when the car is running it’s 11.5. Is that a new alternator or is it worth trying to fix it?
If it’s a new one, what make? EBAY the place to get it?
Anything below 12.4v across the terminals is a heavily discharged battery. I know they're described as 12v but a 'full' battery is actually 12.6-12.8v, if its showing as 12.0v then its over 75% discharged, which makes sense if its showing 11.5v when running as the car is drawing power from it.
Best thing to do is check the alternator output directly when the car is running. I assume you have a multimeter as you've measured the battery voltage, so you want to take the airbox out and check the alternator voltage, positive probe to the terminal on the back and negative to the casing. If this shows a good output, check the voltage over the engine bay jump points (positive on the firewall and negative can be any ground, but the jump point is near the passenger strut tower).
If the alternator output isnt 14.2+v or so, its dead.
If the alternator is outputting but the voltage over the jump points isnt 14v+, you have a bad connection either to the alternator or the starter.
If the voltage over the jump points is 14+ but the battery is 11.5, you may have a damaged battery cable. The positive cable does have a blowout fuse built into it, but I believe that would also disconnect the battery from everything so don't imagine this could be the issue i.e. the car wouldnt start.
Depending on the state of battery discharge it may need replacing, at the very least you want to get it on a CTEK or similar and run a recondition cycle to minimise any sulphating of the plates. I had a similar issue, battery got worn down and I've just had to replace it a few months later as it's no longer holding any charge above 12.2v.