Remote locking not working - Desperate

[0xid0]

I'm a bit desperated with my remote lock. In resume:

- Started to fail a long time ago
- Changed relays of GM5 module
- Started again to work, but only for one week. It has not worked again (passed 1 year)
- Tried other key, same result
- Purchased one new key, coded with AK90 (i can start my car with this key) but still not working remote lock
- Tried to sync all keys via exiting methods, none of them work

Any other ideas? I read our Z4 has the antenna receiver in the rear view mirror. Worth it if i can purchase new rear view mirror and try?

 

[Jfgoldfish]

I very recently helped a friend solve this same problem.
I assume you have tried to pair your key with the GM5 module already. If not, you might just need to follow the procedure to do so.

If the central locking still works with the button and key in door it is unlikely to be the relays in the GM5. You have already ruled them out anyway.

The rear view mirror comes off very easily so we swapped mine onto his car and the remote locking immediately started to work.

Replacement mirror might be the answer for you too. If you can, ask a friend of you can borrow their mirror to confirm.

 

[colb]

I noite you also bought a new key and coded it to crank the car with the AK90 but have you synced all of the keys with the central locking by carrying out the syncing proceedure which is totally separate from coding the key to start the car. There a number of methods to try to sync the keys but be sure to do one key immediatly after each other or they wont sync.
Method 1:

1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut

2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds.

3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds.

4. Release both buttons.

5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred.



Method 2:

To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed.

1) Get in and close all doors.

2) Turn on the ignition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds.

3) Remove the 1st key.

4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote receiver antenna.

5) Hold down the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times. Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation.

6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc.

If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key 1, vs 1 then 2.



Method 3:

Alternate if you do not have a working remote

1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly 2. Remove key 3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.

4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds 5. Turn on ignition to finalise.

 

[0xid0]

I noite you also bought a new key and coded it to crank the car with the AK90 but have you synced all of the keys with the central locking by carrying out the syncing proceedure which is totally separate from coding the key to start the car. There a number of methods to try to sync the keys but be sure to do one key immediatly after each other or they wont sync.
Method 1:

1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut

2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds.

3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds.

4. Release both buttons.

5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred.



Method 2:

To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed.

1) Get in and close all doors.

2) Turn on the ignition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds.

3) Remove the 1st key.

4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote receiver antenna.

5) Hold down the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times. Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation.

6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc.

If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key 1, vs 1 then 2.



Method 3:

Alternate if you do not have a working remote

1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly 2. Remove key 3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.

4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds 5. Turn on ignition to finalise.

Sorry, i forgot to mention tried these methods and none of them working

 

[0xid0]

I very recently helped a friend solve this same problem.
I assume you have tried to pair your key with the GM5 module already. If not, you might just need to follow the procedure to do so.

If the central locking still works with the button and key in door it is unlikely to be the relays in the GM5. You have already ruled them out anyway.

The rear view mirror comes off very easily so we swapped mine onto his car and the remote locking immediately started to work.

Replacement mirror might be the answer for you too. If you can, ask a friend of you can borrow their mirror to confirm.

Yes, central locking still works with the key and also with the button. And also, the red light of the rear mirror are blinking.

I have a few questions about rearview mirror:

- UK and the rest of UE uses the same frequency?
- It is plug and play? i mean, if i switch with another, i don't need to do any coding?
- It is easy to switch electronic board between mirrors?

Thanks!

 

[0xid0]

Any other question:

- My mirror are 7051891 but the most of mirrors i see are 7051896.

What is the difference between them? Maybe autodimming? can i retrofit 7051896 in my car without any mods?

 

[Jfgoldfish]

- UK and the rest of UE uses the same frequency?
- It is plug and play? i mean, if i switch with another, i don't need to do any coding?
- It is easy to switch electronic board between mirrors?

- Yes, they should all be 433Mhz.
- No, no coding required and very easy to remove and replace.
- No, unfortunately not. We did split the broken mirror but it was quite difficult and we did mark the plastic despite being careful.
I mean, yeh, it's easy but you will end up with gouges around the rim where you pry to split it.

 

[Jfgoldfish]

What is the difference between them? Maybe autodimming? can i retrofit 7051896 in my car without any mods?

I am not particularly sure. It could be auto dimming, rain sensor, or I think some came with the red clown nose not the grey one?
The safest bet would be to swap one in with the same features as yours.
We are swapping a manual dimming one into my friend's car due to the higher cost of autodimmers and it's not a feature he is all too fussed about keeping.

 

[0xid0]

Hi again.

Removed from a Z4 located in a scrapyard the rear view mirror with the same reference... and still doesn't work. Tried again to code a few keys and nothing happens :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

 

[AC5L4T3R]

I feel your pain. I've also had unexplainable key problems.

Mine stopped working and I assumed it was the battery, got a new key cut and coded and around the same time the old one started working after the doing the pairing combo but I couldn't get the new one to pair at all. After about 2 weeks the old one stopped working and then worked intermittently until I changed the car battery.

It worked for about 3 weeks and then the day I posted on a z4 fb group about how it was now working, it stopped working and hasn't worked since. I will try and get the battery in the key changed but that's a pain and a half as well.

 

[Ewazix]

A couple of thoughts on this one,
1- I'm not sure that it's correct to say that the GM5 module is ruled out because some relays have been replaced and the locking works manually with a key. My GM5 went down causing intermittent remote locking problems but locking always worked manually on the key. Are you 100% happy with the GM5?
2- I have previously read on here that the EWS only allows 10 keys to be programmed to the car in it's lifetime, this includes the originals and valet I believe, plus extras a previous keeper may have added (and lost). Have you exceeded 10 keys? I think this can be checked on the EWS with software. The EWS cannot be overwritten or re-set once 10 keys are added and apparently a new EWS can only be supplied and coded to the car by BMW (but maybe someone has worked how to overcome this?).
3- The EWS can become un-synced from the DME causing key/starting problems (if that's an issue)
4- It could be as simple as a break or ground in the K bus or dodgy connector. My first new Mini 2004 model used many shared/identical components and had a similar issue, it was with BMW for some weeks. They changed modules and tried endless escalations to expert technicians from HQ with diagnostics. It was eventually traced to a faulty connector to a module.

 

[Jfgoldfish]

it is unlikely to be the relays in the GM5. You have already ruled them out anyway.

I'm not sure that it's correct to say that the GM5 module is ruled out because some relays have been replaced

It wouldn't be correct at all to rule out the GM5 module. Quite safe to say the relays are fine though. :roll:

The 10 key limit applies to keys programmed to start the car not the central locking. The fact that the key has already been programmed to the EWS means that that limit has not been exceeded.

 

[Ewazix]

it is unlikely to be the relays in the GM5. You have already ruled them out anyway.

I'm not sure that it's correct to say that the GM5 module is ruled out because some relays have been replaced

It wouldn't be correct at all to rule out the GM5 module. Quite safe to say the relays are fine though. :roll:

The 10 key limit applies to keys programmed to start the car not the central locking. The fact that the key has already been programmed to the EWS means that that limit has not been exceeded.

Maybe I've misunderstood the OP's comment "Tried again to code a few keys and nothing happens" so wondered if the 10 key limit was an issue.

We seem to agree that the GM5 (as a unit) can't be ruled out even if relays have been replaced. I've wondered about module syncing and K bus or connectors as possibilities, any thoughts on ruling those in/out for the OP?

 

[Jfgoldfish]

Tried again to code a few keys and nothing happens

I think when the OP says he tried to 'code' some keys he is saying he tried again to follow the pairing procedure to allow the key to unlock the car. Not code them to the EWS module; that has already been done successfully.

Digging deeper and testing wiring and connectors would be the logical next step.

 

[0xid0]

Tried again to code a few keys and nothing happens

I think when the OP says he tried to 'code' some keys he is saying he tried again to follow the pairing procedure to allow the key to unlock the car. Not code them to the EWS module; that has already been done successfully.

Digging deeper and testing wiring and connectors would be the logical next step.

Yes mate, when i say to 'code' i'm referring to pairing procedure.

 

[0xid0]

I feel your pain. I've also had unexplainable key problems.

Mine stopped working and I assumed it was the battery, got a new key cut and coded and around the same time the old one started working after the doing the pairing combo but I couldn't get the new one to pair at all. After about 2 weeks the old one stopped working and then worked intermittently until I changed the car battery.

It worked for about 3 weeks and then the day I posted on a z4 fb group about how it was now working, it stopped working and hasn't worked since. I will try and get the battery in the key changed but that's a pain and a half as well.

It's very frustrating. I think the next step is to check electrical wiring. Someone has the electrical diagram of this to check?

 

[0xid0]

One interesting thing, maybe...

When i close my car with the key in door, red light in rear view mirror blinks a lot of times (around 10 times) and then start more slowly blinking.

I have observed in a friend cars that is not happen. When it's lock the doors, it's light not blinking fast like mine. It's any kind of error code?

 

[Jfgoldfish]

Might be worth checking (using INPA) if the car knows all its doors are shut.
Some cars won't lock without the doors being shut. I'm am not certain if the Z4 is the same.

I do know that the key pairing procedure IS meant to be completed with all doors shut. Maybe if the car thinks one is open it won't allow pairing.

 

[Jörökukko]

I had same problem. In my case the problem was that the gas tanks door wouldn't lock. I took off the electric connector from gas door actuator and I made shortcut with those two cables. It's been working since then.

 

[Jfgoldfish]

In my case the problem was that the gas tanks door wouldn't lock.

That makes sense. Some pairing procedures explicitly state "ensure all doors and hatches are shut" so this could include the boot, bonnet, fuel door, glove box or any other hatch/door for all I know!

They really expect you to follow the instructions to the letter :thumbsdown:

INPA can interrogate every switch and sensor on the car so this should be a simple and free test