Reliability

gela12

New member
 tbilisi
Hello, so decided to buy a Z4 E89 but i cant decide which one to buy an Sdrive28i or Sdrive35i? Both over 2013 and i mostly consider reliability, so which one is more reliable between those two?
 
Not an expert, just read around the forum

28i of that vintage will not have updated timing chain parts, that happened around 2015
 
They are complicated cars. As an outsider I have noted more issues with the 35i. But I really am no expert. Welcome to the forum. :)
 
Widely discussed on here OP, but google N54 problems for the 35 issues, great engine though.
Four pots also have some issues. I’d go classic straight six.
If you want the most reliable then the N52 NA straight six is the one in 2.5lt (23i) or ideally 3.0lt (30i).
 
So several observations

They are all very reliable providing you don’t use them..much

Folks generally who state reliability is good often drive very low annual mileages

Both these models WILL suffer from big ticket items sometime in their lives ..whereas later post April 2015 18i/20i/28i and earlier 23i/30i probably not.

The 35i has the ability to generate multiple bigger ticket (more than £1000) failures, injectors, turbos, HPFP, adaptive dampers if fitted, DCT of fitted etc ..

The 28i of 2013 has the probability of cam chain failure at some point and a much lesser probability of bore score.

Of course many folks find that during their short reign..most e89s are traded frequently, they ‘get away with it’

Personally if I was worried about cost of maintenance these days I’d go for a 23i/30i or a n20 that’s had the camchain upgrade or have enough money (£1250 ish ) to get the mod done on a pre April 2015 or buy a later one.

As stock the 28i especially in auto is a great car ..handles much better than a 35i and more than adequate power …

But people rarely follow what’s ‘best’…
 
The non turbo early cars probably the most reliable - then go downhill as you increase the power & complexity going up the range.

But all these care are 9-16 years old now, so you will have all the age related stuff just like any other car to deal with, then tack on the hard top folding roof gubbins.

I've owned a few & all were great, but keep on top of maintenance & set your expectations properly.

If you go out seeking the cheapest in the country, don't expect it to be cheap for long.
 
Its only the roof that need someone who knows what they are doing to sort any issues, the rest of it is just standard BMW used across many of their models.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:

B21 has extensive experience of both the N20 and N54 engines so I'd be guided by what he said. Anyway good luck with your search.
 
I recently had the timing chain done. £1500 to replace.

It’s around £2200 with the oil pump replacement as well.

If you are going for 28i, it would be worth pricing in the timing chain upgrade, if it’s not got it already.
 
The non turbo early cars probably the most reliable - then go downhill as you increase the power & complexity going up the range.

But all these care are 9-16 years old now, so you will have all the age related stuff just like any other car to deal with, then tack on the hard top folding roof gubbins.

I've owned a few & all were great, but keep on top of maintenance & set your expectations properly.

If you go out seeking the cheapest in the country, don't expect it to be cheap for long.
Sums it up perfectly IMO.

It seems everybody who comes on here looking for a 4 pot (N20) wants the 28i. You will pay premium money for a 28i against a 20i or 18i. They are EXACTLY the same engines, other than a different factory software map. The map to get over 28i power figures can be 'installed' for very little money by almost anybody.

As said, if you want an N54 engine be prepared to have a sizeable maintenance fund.
If you want an N20 engine, go for a later one.
If you want reliability go for an earlier 23i or 30i. The 30i is fetching good money now, as there were not that many produced and everybody has realised they are the most powerful against reliability as they get old.

But all the roofs are the same and can get very expensive if they go wrong. It's not the roofs, it's that there only seem to be three people on the planet who know how to fix them, cos BMW dealers don't. But they will empty your wallet trying.
 
I think straight 6 only way to go for reliability. At 108k miles only engine issue was warped cam cover i replaced about £100 ish and the usual oil filter heat exchanger seals about £50.
Not sure how the chassis and steering copes with the higher powered cars.
 
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