Red airbag light.

Thanks for raising the counter argument specifically re the SRS Shipkiller. I have been unable to find a way of personally resetting SRS code.

I purchased a carsoft link/interface and the software and it would not connect correctly to the Z4. My local Indy swore he could do it but it turned out on his expensive set up that he has codes for everything except the Z4 SRS system.

Incedentally Carsoft would only read the chassis number and LCM mileage on mine (both Z4 and X5)

If anyone really does have a SRS reset tool or method available to the UK and at a reasonable price I'm all ears...
 
Maybe this will work. I am not sure.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=R5/SRS

My autoenginuity will reset the SRS but since I still have the fault, the light will stay on...
 
OK so $130 plus no doubt say another $30 to ship it is not cheap, but less than 2 trips to a dealer.

I'd like to hear from someone who has actually used this tool with success on a Z4..

(I'm still smarting from having to book my X5 in for new rear suspension bushes at £620 ($1250) having just failed it's annual MOT)
 
cj10jeeper said:
I purchased a carsoft link/interface and the software and it would not connect correctly to the Z4. My local Indy swore he could do it but it turned out on his expensive set up that he has codes for everything except the Z4 SRS system.
Click to expand...


crap i just bought one of these CarSoft deals...
 
BlackSapphireZ said:
cj10jeeper said:
I purchased a carsoft link/interface and the software and it would not connect correctly to the Z4. My local Indy swore he could do it but it turned out on his expensive set up that he has codes for everything except the Z4 SRS system.
Click to expand...


crap i just bought one of these CarSoft deals...
Click to expand...

That was my take and it went back for a 100% refund
 
ShipKiller are you sure that a code like B1876 would not even show up on the reader?
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I have never had anything other then a O2 sensor show up. But understood that any code would show on the screen. :(

I would not recommend clearing a code without finding and fixing the problem but was not aware that the reset would not do it.

I am going to have to fine what I need to do the work myself, because I will be damned if I am just going to take the dealers word for problems that I could diagnose myself. :thumbsdown: If you find something that does work for less than 1K let me know. That was what I was referring to as inexpensive not 20K. And still aside from this particular problem, there have been a lot of other faults reported here that a simple code reader would have lessened some of the worry at times. :)
 
Waz, a B1876 is NOT an ODB-II code. It is a BODY specific code from the manufacturer. All generic ODB-II codes are PXXXX codes...

Pulling the battery terminal for 10 min. WILL reset ODB-II codes because they are engine/performance/emissions related. Depending on how the manufacturer designs the system, determines whether the other codes stored in the other modules gets cleared....

You have to remember, there is NO rule on HOW the manufacture designs his system. The only rule is that if a car/truck is sold in the US, it must at a bare minimum, conform to the DOT/EPA mandated coding.
Example:
On my Ford F-150, ALL codes (emissions/SRS/body etc) are stored in the main computer..... so pulling the battery cable will reset ALL codes, no matter what.
BMW goes a different route. They have a different module for each function that it requires. So, when you pull a ODB code, that DTC code is coming from the DME. When you have the proper equipment, and pull the SRS code, it is coming from the Safety and Information Module (SIM). There is a separate module for your soft top...

Any simple ODB-II code reader will read the genaric ODB codes....

Here is a site I sometimes go to for info.
http://www.obd-codes.com/
 
Boy they are sure locking you in then. Well at least the engine specific codes should show up. I still don't think disconnecting the battery is a good idea. I have not done that on the BMW, but my O2 was out of my Chev S-10. I did the battery thing and sure enough it cleared, I drove it and it came back in a few miles, did it again and same thing. Put on the reader said top O2 was out, got one, 15 minutes later started the truck, the computer sensed the problem was fixed, the check engine light went out and all has been well ever sense. Now if I took it into the dealer, it would have been $100 to diagnose the problem and $250.00 to fix it. With the BMW it would be more like $750.00. I just don't want to play that game when a $45.00 part and 15 minutes work by me can do the same thing. You are probably correct on body stuff, and some other modules, I remember reading about the BMW architecture. But at least for the engine stuff which I have seen on this forum, can be diagnosed and fixed by anyone who can swing a wrench and I think investing in a code reader is a wise thing to do. Thanks for all your great expertise and help, if you find anything useful on this subject I am sure you will inform us all.
 
How the computer in the car clears the CEL (check engine light or service engine soon) light differs from one manufacture to the next.

On Ford, you must have three consecutive drive cycles (Key on, start, run, off) without a fault to clear the CEL.
Not sure about BMW yet......but I think it is similar.

It's not a bad thing to pull power to clear the codes. If you pull the code and keep it, then pull power to clear it, that would be alright. You now have a data point for the future to see if the code was a spurious code or a hard fault....
The computer will generate fault codes that do not light the CEL lamp... but are stored. The only way to see those codes is to use a code scanner....

Any AutoZone or AdvancedAuto will scan your ODB-II codes for free.....
 
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