Recommend new battery (and weird noise)

[ihadablackdog]

I've touched on this previously but can't remember the thread (did do a quick search), but it's probably better to get updated recommendations anyway.

Changed the salmon relays at the weekend....really pleased with myself, it may be "one small step" for you guys, but its "one giant leap" for me.

Whilst I was there, I looked at the age of the battery, week 41 of 2011! I got the car a couple years ago and start/stop never worked, then at the beginning of lockdown I got a charger and put it on for a few days. Its been ok since, but guess I should consider changing it.

Which one is recommended, brand etc? This is a 70 Ah battery, is there any benefit getting higher (as if I know what that means)? Here's a pic of the current one:

 

[Stash36]

I have a 2009 and the original battery starts the car fine but doesnt work the roof without the engine on. It has comfort access so this should work. So I'll be replacing mine, but its two years older than your battery and still usable.
The cars don't have Stop/Start, despite the button.

 

[Watson]

This one , and does not need coding as straight swap for original BMW/Varta battery

 

[ihadablackdog]

I have a 2009 and the original battery starts the car fine but doesnt work the roof without the engine on. It has comfort access so this should work. So I'll be replacing mine, but its two years older than your battery and still usable.
The cars don't have Stop/Start, despite the button.

Thanks. My car starts fine also but I’m thinking it’s time to do so.

My car does have start/stop (it’s a 20i).

 

[ihadablackdog]

This one , and does not need coding as straight swap for original BMW/Varta battery

Literally, nothing required other than connect it? I thought you had to tell the car it had a new battery?

 

[Colin_E]

A 70Ah AGM will be fine. No real benefit to going bigger and you may have more work to do with brackets & such like if the physical size is any larger.
Your choice which brand - as your pic shows, BMW fitted Exide at that time but moved to Varta a few years later. I personally chose Bosch as I've had good experience in the past and I read somewhere that Bosch & Varta come off the same production line and the only thing different is the badge & an extra year's warranty for the Bosch.
You DO still need to register a new battery which requires a software tool (or get it fitted somewhere with the capability)

 

[Stash36]

My car does have start/stop (it’s a 20i).

Oh apologies, I didn't know they had it on the newer models.

 

[Watson]

Literally, nothing required other than connect it? I thought you had to tell the car it had a new battery?

I was under the impression if it was a straight swap , varta for varta and all numbers match up it doesn’t need coding ? Put my new one in 3 weeks ago No coding and no issues

Will get Carly out tomorrow and check it

 

[Anonymous]

70 ah or 80 ah AGM batteries are both ok..the brackets are designed for both..if you have the 70ah already then a new 70ah needs to be registered..if it’s 80ah then the data needs to be updated as part of registration ..if you have the right tools neither is a faff..

Varta, Yuasa, Bosch are good brands amongst others pls make sure it’s AGM technology..

As an aside if you have a 18i 20i 28i with Stratton stop then it’s best NOT to use it and also get into a 5,000 / annual oil change regime in a bid to save further damage to the cam chain and it’s tensioner if your E89 is pre 2015 model year..even if it’s later still good practice..

 

[Anonymous]

Literally, nothing required other than connect it? I thought you had to tell the car it had a new battery?

I was under the impression if it was a straight swap , varta for varta and all numbers match up it doesn’t need coding ? Put my new one in 3 weeks ago and no issues

Incorrect..the onboard puters monitor the decline in the health of the battery and it throws the system if you simply swap a fresh one in...bit like going for a 20 mile run then eating 5 burgers..you can do it, the effects are not obvious but is it good for you..

 

[Watson]

Incorrect..the onboard puters monitor the decline in the health of the battery and it throws the system if you simply swap a fresh one in...bit like going for a 20 mile run then eating 5 burgers..you can do it, the effects are not obvious but is it good for you..

Thank you will code it tomorrow, this is the great thing about forums , great advice and you never stop learning

 

[mr.tourette]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F18009151049

Put one of these in mine.. woking well

 

[Smartbear]

Incorrect..the onboard puters monitor the decline in the health of the battery and it throws the system if you simply swap a fresh one in...bit like going for a 20 mile run then eating 5 burgers..you can do it, the effects are not obvious but is it good for you..

Thank you will code it tomorrow, this is the great thing about forums , great advice and you never stop learning

If fitting a different capacity battery coding is needed, if replacing on a like for like basis then registration is required, that’s my understanding of it
Rob

 

[Anonymous]

Incorrect..the onboard puters monitor the decline in the health of the battery and it throws the system if you simply swap a fresh one in...bit like going for a 20 mile run then eating 5 burgers..you can do it, the effects are not obvious but is it good for you..

Thank you will code it tomorrow, this is the great thing about forums , great advice and you never stop learning

If fitting a different capacity battery coding is needed, if replacing on a like for like basis then registration is required, that’s my understanding of it
Rob

thats what we said...

 

[Smartbear]

Thank you will code it tomorrow, this is the great thing about forums , great advice and you never stop learning

If fitting a different capacity battery coding is needed, if replacing on a like for like basis then registration is required, that’s my understanding of it
Rob

thats what we said...

Incorrect..the onboard puters monitor the decline in the health of the battery and it throws the system if you simply swap a fresh one in...bit like going for a 20 mile run then eating 5 burgers..you can do it, the effects are not obvious but is it good for you..

Thank you will code it tomorrow, this is the great thing about forums , great advice and you never stop learning

But not what he said
Rob

 

[Colin_E]

Bizarre though don’t you think? Two different words for what amounts to a near identical process and just adds confusion to most people

 

[ihadablackdog]

Thanks for all replies. Going to get one with the same specs then register it in the car.

As an aside if you have a 18i 20i 28i with Stratton stop then it’s best NOT to use it and also get into a 5,000 / annual oil change regime in a bid to save further damage to the cam chain and it’s tensioner if your E89 is pre 2015 model year..even if it’s later still good practice..

Yes, it’s a 2011 20i so falls into that category.

You can code start/stop to always be off and not default to on with Carly right? Think I’m going to get Carly...been thinking about it for a while but never did so and these two procedures might pay for itself and then I can play with other settings.

Is there a sign these are failing? I ask because I saw a YouTube video once showing a car that had the beginnings of problems and under the bonnet was a whine when revving.

My car makes a whine type noise in 1st and 2nd when accelerating but after that it’s not present (or noticeable). But I’m not sure if it’s the turbo?

Does this sound related?

 

[Anonymous]

I’m not sure what the whine is but it’s probably NOT cam chain related...IMHO..

 

[ihadablackdog]

I’m not sure what the whine is but it’s probably NOT cam chain related...IMHO..

Thanks.

It starts at about 1750rpm going towards and past 2000rpm and only really seems noticeable in 1st and 2nd when accelerating, there is plenty of pull etc.

I think I'm losing it, as this could just be the normal sound in the lower gears, perhaps due to gearing? Almost like an electric motor sound, but not like an electric motor sound. My description makes no sense, I am aware of that

 

[Anonymous]

I’m not sure what the whine is but it’s probably NOT cam chain related...IMHO..

Thanks.

It starts at about 1750rpm going towards and past 2000rpm and only really seems noticeable in 1st and 2nd when accelerating, there is plenty of pull etc.

I think I'm losing it, as this could just be the normal sound in the lower gears, perhaps due to gearing? Almost like an electric motor sound, but not like an electric motor sound. My description makes no sense, I am aware of that

People on this Forum often lose it so I wouldn't worry on that score..

Sounds like transmission related noise..is it manual?

'pull' wise is not relevant..the N20 engines 'pull' till the cam chain jumps the camshaft sprockets, then there is 'no pull'

Doing an oil change and cutting open the filter is a good diagnostic..if you have plastic swarf in there then its on its way to 'good night vienna'