Rear strut replacement

True-Blue

Veteran
 Bristol/Bath
Site Supporter
I’ve replaced the rear struts on E85’s a few times, but not on an E89.

Is it a case of moving the roof into the semi-open position to access trim/struts?

I’ve tried searching for a video/ images on this but can’t find anything…. Maybe I need to improve my searching skills :headbang:
 
True-Blue said:
I’ve replaced the rear struts on E85’s a few times, but not on an E89.

Is it a case of moving the roof into the semi-open position to access trim/struts?

I’ve tried searching for a video/ images on this but can’t find anything…. Maybe I need to improve my searching skills :headbang:

Hopefully Mr Bondar will see this as i think he’s changed the suspension on his e89 :thumbsup:
Rob
 
True-Blue said:
I’ve replaced the rear struts on E85’s a few times, but not on an E89.

Is it a case of moving the roof into the semi-open position to access trim/struts?

I’ve tried searching for a video/ images on this but can’t find anything…. Maybe I need to improve my searching skills :headbang:
Yes.
I have just replaced some Bilstein B6 for 4's.
Can say not a vast difference between them. B4 cheaper.
 
flybobbie said:
True-Blue said:
I’ve replaced the rear struts on E85’s a few times, but not on an E89.

Is it a case of moving the roof into the semi-open position to access trim/struts?

I’ve tried searching for a video/ images on this but can’t find anything…. Maybe I need to improve my searching skills :headbang:
Yes.
I have just replaced some Bilstein B6 for 4's.
Can say not a vast difference between them. B4 cheaper.

Thanks Fred,

I have a set of B8’s to go on, with Eibach Springs; The B12 kit effectively.

Just to check, is it a case of switching the ignition off when the roof is ‘parked’ semi-open, doesn’t cause any errors when switched back on?
 
Just use fob to open.
Boot might very slowly drop so just give fob another press.
Just make sure the trim goes back in the right place otherwise the roof struts will catch on the way down.
But need to jump in ign. on to close if you have no comfort access.
No errors.
Useful to have a few jacks, i needed one to raise the wheel to line up bolt with strut and link.
 
True-Blue said:
flybobbie said:
True-Blue said:
I’ve replaced the rear struts on E85’s a few times, but not on an E89.

Is it a case of moving the roof into the semi-open position to access trim/struts?

I’ve tried searching for a video/ images on this but can’t find anything…. Maybe I need to improve my searching skills :headbang:
Yes.
I have just replaced some Bilstein B6 for 4's.
Can say not a vast difference between them. B4 cheaper.

Thanks Fred,

I have a set of B8’s to go on, with Eibach Springs; The B12 kit effectively.

Just to check, is it a case of switching the ignition off when the roof is ‘parked’ semi-open, doesn’t cause any errors when switched back on?

As was stated no harm in stopping roof action mid way..just make sure action is over centre to avoid sagging or use a piece of wood to chock (gently) roof in semi opened position.. :thumbsup:
 
Still waiting for a few bits from BMW, but had a quick look today with the roof ‘parked’ open.

Looks like one trim peace each side to remove, anything tricky with these?….Looks straightforward, but don’t want to start dissembling until I have all parts needed to reassemble.

EDIT - looks like removing these trim pieces completely needs a fair bit of the boot taking apart. Hopefully they can be moved sufficiently to enable access to the three shock bolts without having to remove completely… can anyone confirm?

Thinking about lifting the car at the rear central jacking point and placing stands under each rear side jacking point, then doing both sides at once… seems logical, took same approach with the E85.
 
Thought I’d update this, have the B12 kit fully installed.

Straightforward job, front and rear.

Biggest pain was working out how to move the bloody trim panels in the boot out of the way to access the rear strut turrets.

Still, all done, test drive will need to be later as have to pop out now but need 3 seats :headbang:
 
Have you had a chance to test drive the new suspension yet True-Blue. Either way let us know your impressions etc please. I would be really interested as I am considering this myself.
 
Rickg3 said:
Have you had a chance to test drive the new suspension yet True-Blue. Either way let us know your impressions etc please. I would be really interested as I am considering this myself.

Yes, but relatively briefly. I’m hoping to get out for a decent run on some familiar roads over the weekend.

Initial thoughts are much better control, firm but not in a crashy-bouncy way, way better than standard MSport E89 suspension or the active set up… I’ll report back in a bit more detail over the weekend :thumbsup:
 
Rickg3 said:
Have you had a chance to test drive the new suspension yet True-Blue. Either way let us know your impressions etc please. I would be really interested as I am considering this myself.

Ok, had a chance to get out for a decent run today.

I’m on 18’s, but still on runflats temporarily until I decide what I’m doing wheel wise.

I really like the B12 kit, I loved it on the E85 and I love it more on the E89. If anything, I’d say the ride is more forgiving in the E89 than the E85 with the same set up (I’ve had both now).

The car corners much flatter and, although it’s firm, I don’t find it crashy… even on the run-flats (they’re still going though :thumbsup: )

I have to say, I think this is probably the best ‘£ for £’ modification you can make to the E89. Feels so much better. I’ve owned an E89 with MSport suspension in the past, before this one with active suspension, and they are nowhere near as good as this is now.

The only thing I would say is that this a weekend/toy car for me… not a daily driver. I’m sure the ‘se’ is probably more comfortable, but I’d guess it’s also more wallowy than the MSport. I want my weekend car to be fun first, this is a great compromise :D

Others on here have spent far more on KW V3’s, Ohlins etc and I’m certain they’re better again. However, the law of diminishing returns comes into play and I’d wager this is 80% as good for about 50%- 33% of the price of the more expensive kits.

Don’t get me wrong, I’d happily swap for an Ohlins set up if someone else was writing the cheques :rofl:
 
So how did you access the rear struts, did you need to remove the trims in the boot completely or were you able to just moved them aside a little?
 
Silverstar said:
So how did you access the rear struts, did you need to remove the trims in the boot completely or were you able to just moved them aside a little?

I managed to manoeuvre them sufficiently out of the way to access the strut-tops. When I’ve got a bit more time I’ll take a few photo’s of the hidden clips that need to be removed. Accessing the rear right was definitely easier than the rear left though.

You can’t really remove them completely without taking loads of other bits out first :headbang:
 
True-Blue said:
managed to manoeuvre them sufficiently out of the way to access the strut-tops. When I’ve got a bit more time I’ll take a few photo’s of the hidden clips that need to be removed. Accessing the rear right was definitely easier than the rear left though.

You can’t really remove them completely without taking loads of other bits out first

Perfect thanks! I know what you mean about how much trim needs to be removed to access stuff, I experienced it with my subwoofer install. :rofl:
 
Apologies for bumping a 5 month old thread, but I'm planning on replacing my rear shocks with B4s next weekend and want to make sure I'm all equipped ahead of doing it.

I figured it more appropriate than creating a new one to ask:
What are the torque specs/procedures for the various nuts?

Cheers!
 
Chippie said:
mholt1995 said:
What are the torque specs/procedures for the various nuts?

I would imagine some are “T” and the others are “FT”
:rofl:
Very useful, thank you :thumbsdown:

I ended up getting a hold of TIS and the right data so will share it for future voyagers.

Shock absorber top nut = 14nm
Top mount nuts = 24Nm
Shock absorber bolts = Tighten to 165Nm *with* car on ground and weight loaded etc.
 
mholt1995 said:
Chippie said:
mholt1995 said:
What are the torque specs/procedures for the various nuts?

I would imagine some are “T” and the others are “FT”
:rofl:
Very useful, thank you :thumbsdown:

I ended up getting a hold of TIS and the right data so will share it for future voyagers.

Shock absorber top nut = 14nm
Top mount nuts = 24Nm
Shock absorber bolts = Tighten to 165Nm *with* car on ground and weight loaded etc.

Very sorry, only trying to bring a little humour to the post 🙁
 
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