Rear speaker upgrade approach

omar

Member
I've got the basic stereo system and would like to upgrade with as little fuss as possible. Not too keen on changing the head unit as the standard space is so much wider than DIN.

I'll certainly be adding some door speakers running off the tweeter feed, and will also do the footwells.

However I'm wondering if it's worth changing the tweeters (maybe get a 6" component set and use for footwells + tweeters). Also wondering if I could just disconnect the rear speakers and put some 6" woofers or 6x9s in the cubby holes running off the rear feed from the head unit. Would the standard head unit drive all that satisfactorily? I don't need huge volume, just better clarity and to drown out some of the rattles! :D grateful for any advice.
 
In my opinion you're thinking down the right line.

A 2 way component in the front and some form of rear fill.

Personally I'd suggest that you amplify any aftermarket speakers that you use, not for loud volume, but for headroom which would yield better sound quality.

I'm not a fan of 6x9s. You might want to just stick a set of coaxils in the rear.

This is what I ended up with for the rears.

8728402669_1705596509_c.jpg
131. Rears. by NeilllP, on Flickr

All things considered, it all boils down to how much you're willing to spend. Set yourself a budget and then go from there.
 
I put some 6" in my rear cubby holes,easy jod if you cut the bases right,run cables direct from HU and disconnected the weedy 4" standard speakers,better sound.
 
I've no idea really, but I would expect the tweeter feeds to be filtered and of marginal use for mid range signal. You should confirm this before deciding to use the tweeter feeds.
 
bcworkz said:
I've no idea really, but I would expect the tweeter feeds to be filtered and of marginal use for mid range signal. You should confirm this before deciding to use the tweeter feeds.
With the basic 6-speaker stereo, the tweeter feeds are full range - the filtering is done by an in-line capacitor that is installed very close to the tweeter itself (within the triangle housing)

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=53812
 
NeilP said:
In my opinion you're thinking down the right line.

A 2 way component in the front and some form of rear fill.

Personally I'd suggest that you amplify any aftermarket speakers that you use, not for loud volume, but for headroom which would yield better sound quality.

I'm not a fan of 6x9s. You might want to just stick a set of coaxils in the rear.

This is what I ended up with for the rears.

8728402669_1705596509_c.jpg
131. Rears. by NeilllP, on Flickr

All things considered, it all boils down to how much you're willing to spend. Set yourself a budget and then go from there.
how much was your set up mate did you do it yourself
cheers darren
 
Here's 2 videos for mid range and tweeter upgrade


This one is basically removing the door panel
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BC1nHKRc-Gw


This is removing and adding the tweeter and mid range
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq1uKzpxnAU

There website might have good deals or more videos like this but for the back speakers or so
 
Cheers for the advice so far guys. Speakers ordered (1 set of basic pioneer 10cms for the doors and two sets of 6" components). Should have time to install next weekend so will report back on how it sounds un-amplified and if i'm not impressed I'll order an amp.

Wondering whether it might be an idea to get the OEM speaker fittings from the stealer to replace the cubby holes rather than doing an MDF job (parts 6, 9 and 10)? Obviously I'd then need to make another hole for the component tweeter etc:

157.png
 
gingertosser, That I did myself with bits left over from previous cars.

The woofer was from a JBL GTO-607c component set
The crossover was from a Hertz HSK165 component set
The tweeter is an LT18 Legacy bullet tweeter.

Powered from a JBL GTO-752e.

All in all quite cheap. For most, I'd advise just going for an off-the-shelf pair of coaxils and an amplifier.

Spend the money on dialing in the front stage perfectly, and just use the rears for some fill.

Omar, it's easier to make your own front baffle as the factory one is metal and designed for the factory woofer. You'd still need to make a custom mounting bracket yourself.
 
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