Rear brake windup tool

pvr

pvr

Dutch
 Ruler of the South East UK
Going to replace the rear pads on the Audi, so read up on it that unlike the BMW pads I have replaced - I needed a windup tool to wind the piston back. Never used one of those before, so any tips? Some say you need to have the bleed nipple open, attach a hose to the nipple. Obviously, the reservoir lid needs to be off and probably will syphon some fluid off first.

Just ordered a full 22 piece windup set from Amazon. Audi was going to charge £100 to fit the rear pads so even with the £20 kit, I would still be £80 up 8)
 
Paul,
I use one on the Jag. Real easy to use. Just select the right left or right threaded tool from your kit and right plate that locks into the piston.
All you need to do is loosen the lid on the master cylinder and keep an eye on the level. If it rises then siphon some off with a syringe..
Use it on all the cars now as so simple to push back calipers
 
No idea about Saab, but it is a compression tool where you wind the piston back. I think it is due to the handbrake that it is required rather than on the BMWs where the handbrake is not joined like on the Audi.
The brake pads themselves have an odd shape as well, with the corners of the brake material completely removed at 45 degrees and an odd spring on top of the pads which I am not sure of yet how that one works.

Nothing like any other pads I have replaced.
 
Every time the pads on the wife's Audi needed to be replaced they stung us for discs as well :(
 
It's very easy to use..

Be careful you don't twist the dust cover though...it will tear easily.

What year is the car? Some vag group cars have electronic motors on the rear calipers that need to be put in rest mode before you change the pads, then "set" mode once the job is completed
 
The biggest problem you might face is that the piston is seized in the caliper and wont budge.
I had to replace the calipers on the rear of the mini because the pistons were seized and no amount of leverage was shifting them.
 
The car is from October 2010, so that will be manual (ie no electronic handbrake).

I read that for those you need software to retract the Pistons.
 
Done the job now, windup tool worked great.

IMG_2840_zpsbkiwa29k.jpg

1.5 hours work, including the cleaning of the wheels, the drinking of a gallon of water as I had parked the car in the sun and the cleaning of the brake fluid jar that I kicked over on the drive which contained the excess fluid from the reservoir. :roll:



Few pumps of the brake pedal and a few jerks on the handbrake to make that work again and all was well :thumbsup:

Old pads had about 6 - 8 mm left so don't really know what the panic by the Audi dealer was during the last service.
 
pvr said:
Old pads had about 6 - 8 mm left so don't really know what the panic by the Audi dealer was during the last service.
Click to expand...

I think that's dealer speak for "let's have more of your money"
 
I have a service pack where brake pads are excluded, so I think it is indeed a case of getting extra money in. What I did not appreciate was the call I got last week for the MOT booking where they very strongly implies that it would need to be done before that.
 
They (Vauxhall ) told my daughter her little corsa needed pads three years in a row - they didn't mention it the forth year - I asked the service manager why - he couldn't answer of course. Bandits!
She takes it elsewhere now. :thumbsup:
Ps it's a 2007 car and only done 17k to date - all steady miles and not much town. So the pads would have lasted.
 
BMW are guilty of this also. I got over 12k out of my pads even though the car said 3K at the time when the dealer wanted to change then.
 
Jaguar main agents guilty too. Every service they advise new pads and disks all 4 wheels. They also set the sensors to trip at 50% pad wear.
 
Our Mini has the rear brake sensor removed as it came on to say the pads were low even though there is still about 5mm left.
The sensors obviously need to wear out quicker than the pads but not that quick.
 
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