Radio working... but no sound?

[Chippie]

Here’s a link to another post with the wiring diagram for the amp, (hope it the right one)
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1920765&hilit=677+hifi+diagram#p1920765
You could try disconnecting the connector and testing for power with a multimeter, at least that way you could tell if it’s getting power.
It’s probably the big red wire

 

[AnubisZed]

I've never had a reason to touch this unit in mine so I'm not sure.
Here is the diagram, having had a bit more of a look into it, and it's, as marked in red, X10002.
I'm thinking this may not be a replaceable fuse type :idunno:

 

[matthiasmilli]

Thanks again for this - I can't really see a way into it so I'm assuming its not a fuse you can replace (or easily replace) - I can't see a way to access it. Searching online, I've found zero information on this fuse at all!

When the weather clears up a bit (it's raining today) i'll take the back panel off the boot again and have a look at the amplifier and see if that red light is there, as you mentioned earlier.

I did see another post somewhere where someone had a similar issue and it ended up being the headunit that was faulty - it would turn on but had no output so the headunit needed to be replaced.

I assume that I unplug the cable in the amp and see the red light, means the headunit is working but the amp is not?

 

[Chippie]

I assume that I unplug the cable in the amp and see the red light, means the headunit is working but the amp is not?

You need to check both the head unit and the amp to make sure the light is travelling between both

 

[matthiasmilli]

Ah crap! Taking out the headunit looks like a bit of a challenge!

 

[B21]

Thanks again for this - I can't really see a way into it so I'm assuming its not a fuse you can replace (or easily replace) - I can't see a way to access it. Searching online, I've found zero information on this fuse at all!

When the weather clears up a bit (it's raining today) i'll take the back panel off the boot again and have a look at the amplifier and see if that red light is there, as you mentioned earlier.

I did see another post somewhere where someone had a similar issue and it ended up being the headunit that was faulty - it would turn on but had no output so the headunit needed to be replaced.

I assume that I unplug the cable in the amp and see the red light, means the headunit is working but the amp is not?

You pull the unit out and there’s a clip that holds the cover over the fuses and cables..you’ll see easily if the fuse is blown…but you have to replace the whole block if just one fuse has gone..the main roof motor use is part of that block..thinking it through it’s a very big fuse to blow….as an aside are you getting reversing note tones ?

 

[matthiasmilli]

Unfortunately I don't have parking sensors so don't get tones. Any ideas what other tones i can test?
Will it give me a tone if i pull away with the handbrake on, for example? Maybe test it that way?
(New to the E89 so asking alot of dumb questions!)

 

[B21]

Unfortunately I don't have parking sensors so don't get tones. Any ideas what other tones i can test?
Will it give me a tone if i pull away with the handbrake on, for example? Maybe test it that way?
(New to the E89 so asking alot of dumb questions!)

Pass have you followed Dave;s advice on seeing if you’ve got red led lights from both ends of the MOST cables ?

 

[matthiasmilli]

Not yet - I need to find the time around work, the weather and doing it in daylight
I've had the back panel off before to check what amplifier I have so thats easy enough to do again - i'll check the red light on that first
To get to the headunit red light though, I have to take the whole headunit out, right?

 

[DonDon]

On Dave's (AnubisZed) Youtube channel (see earlier posts), you will find how to fit an MMI box. This upgrades the sound system and gives you Apple Car Play and / or Android Auto. Part of that is removing the head unit.

 

[Chippie]

Ah crap! Taking out the headunit looks like a bit of a challenge!

Open ashtray, grip inside edge of gear leaver surround and pull up and then remove gear knob, put a wide trim tool between dash and radio surround and leaver forward, it’s held in by 4 prongs ,2 top and 2 bottom, it can take some force to get it off, then remove 4 pozidrive screws 2 each side of head unit and pull out.

 

[matthiasmilli]

Thanks, i'll wait for the weather to dry up and give it a go
Thinking about it, I have an old aftermarket headunit in the attic which worked fine on a car I had a few years ago.
In theory, could I swap them over to test if its my BMW headunit at fault?
I assume connections would fit?

 

[Chippie]

I would imagine that even if you could power up your aftermarket head unit as the amp/speakers are run through the MOST connection you still won’t have any sound.

 

[B21]

Thanks, i'll wait for the weather to dry up and give it a go
Thinking about it, I have an old aftermarket headunit in the attic which worked fine on a car I had a few years ago.
In theory, could I swap them over to test if its my BMW headunit at fault?
I assume connections would fit?

:tumbleweed: :tumbleweed: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

 

[matthiasmilli]

As I said, I don’t know much about electrics and new to this..
Gotta start learning somewhere.

 

[Nictrix]

Unfortunately I don't have parking sensors so don't get tones. Any ideas what other tones i can test?
Will it give me a tone if i pull away with the handbrake on, for example? Maybe test it that way?
(New to the E89 so asking alot of dumb questions!)

I think that or drive without your seat belt fastened should also give you a bong sound

 

[matthiasmilli]

Thanks - I tried this on my way to work this morning.
Pulled away with no seatbelt. I got the seatbelt sign on the dash, but no seatbelt tone…

 

[matthiasmilli]

Hi guys

Potentially asking more dumb questions here, but need people’s opinions…
There’s an auto electrician literally a few roads away - dropped the E89 in for a very quick look (he’s fully booked for two weeks to do a proper diagnostics)

On first glance, he thinks it’s the amp (the one I posted a photo of) that’s the issue - and that if it needed replacing, it will cost around £2500 for all work - can’t remember if he said a new head unit is in that price but said it all needs to be coded to my car

He also said it’s possible to downgrade (as I apparently have a high end amp) but that would be around £1000 for a downgraded headunit and amp

Someone else advised that I could get a plug and play amplifier, plug it in and use that.. for now.. and I’d get sound back

To be fair, I’m not THAT fussed about how decent the sound system is. I kinda just want to hear music as I don’t drive many miles

Questions…
A) is his £2500 estimated (without a proper diagnostics) reasonable? (If all needs replacing)
2) is downgrading an option at that price?
D) Would a ‘plug and play’ amp actually work with all the connections I currently have in my amp? Without coding? (I think I have 3 connections in the top of my amp if you see the pic I posted before)

Need to ask these dumb questions to experienced people..

 

[Chippie]

Have a read of the post below which should help,
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1920765&hilit=677+hifi+diagram#p1920765

B21 (Peter) will probably be the best to answer your questions, he’s recently upgraded his 677 system and may well have an amp that he could sell to you.

 

[Chippie]

If you want to know a bit more about the audio system’s in the E89 have a read of the link below original started by B21 previously known as “Pbondar”

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=121327&hilit=Base+%24676+%24677+sub