Question about changing rod bearings

I have been quoted at just under £800 inc VAT

Change the shells and bearings, replace gaskets and do an oil service.

2 specialist's quoted me similar figures I will also be changing PAS hose and engine mounts whilst I am there (additional cost) that quote is based on 6 hours labour.

I can give you a list of parts used and prices when I drop the car off next month if that helps. :)
 
So I'm booked in to have rod bearings and bolts changed next Wednesday along with vibratechnic road mounts at cpc engineering. Will report back on condition of bearings in a new topic.
 
Viren said:
I'm going with oem bearings and bolts btw
nothing really wrong with that mate, i've also done mine using the OEM stuff.... My brother's M3 has VAC bearings but i think they are over kill for a road car that isn't driven hard/ tracked often, provided you not racking up mileage like a mad man.
 
hopz121 said:
I have been quoted at just under £800 inc VAT

Change the shells and bearings, replace gaskets and do an oil service.

2 specialist's quoted me similar figures I will also be changing PAS hose and engine mounts whilst I am there (additional cost) that quote is based on 6 hours labour.

I can give you a list of parts used and prices when I drop the car off next month if that helps. :)

Once it's done please post on your experience and, if you are happy, post the name of the garage. I am in your neck of the woods (near Billingshurst) and am seriously considering getting mine done. With 107k miles on the clock it feels worth it for peace of mind.

Thanks
 
Z4M-2006 said:
Das882 said:
Z4M-2006 said:
I cant rightly remember but i thought the parts were around the £500 mark alone...

I know that aftermarket bearings are around £500 on their own,but no need for plastigauge so maybe works out similar as more labour needed for OEM bearings..

I didnt think around a £1000 was a bad price at all.
I'm curious as to why you say there is no need for using Plastigauges and why is more labour needed for OEM bearings?


Aftermarket bearings arent machinened to "size" unlike OEM bearings...

Because you have to use plastiguage kit on new bearing fitment,you incur the cost of labour for doing so...

Are you familiar with the use of plastigauge and the bolting / torque procedure for our Z4M's rod bolts?

I don't see why and how the use of plastigauge (which is a way to measure bearing clearance) would increase labour costs when you already have to follow a bolting torque sequence for the rod bearing bolts that imply the need to bolt/unbolt them 3 times! The time added to remove the lower bearing cap, place or check the plastigauge filament, and put lower cap back together can be count in single digit minutes. (IMO)

I also do not understand why you would not check clearance when using aftermaket bearings, can you develop on that as I may be missing something here :wink:
 
Gustavo7 said:
Z4M-2006 said:
Das882 said:
I'm curious as to why you say there is no need for using Plastigauges and why is more labour needed for OEM bearings?


Aftermarket bearings arent machinened to "size" unlike OEM bearings...

Because you have to use plastiguage kit on new bearing fitment,you incur the cost of labour for doing so...

Are you familiar with the use of plastigauge and the bolting / torque procedure for our Z4M's rod bolts?

I don't see why and how the use of plastigauge (which is a way to measure bearing clearance) would increase labour costs when you already have to follow a bolting torque sequence for the rod bearing bolts that imply the need to bolt/unbolt them 3 times! The time added to remove the lower bearing cap, place or check the plastigauge filament, and put lower cap back together can be count in single digit minutes. (IMO)

I also do not understand why you would not check clearance when using aftermaket bearings, can you develop on that as I may be missing something here :wink:
I did not get round to answering the reply to my original question, but I too would will still use plastigauges just to double check that everything thing is within tollerence.....as mentioned it does not take much more time and gives if nothing else...peace of mind. :thumbsup:
 
Viren said:
So I'm booked in to have rod bearings and bolts changed next Wednesday along with vibratechnic road mounts at cpc engineering. Will report back on condition of bearings in a new topic.

I would be careful with those engine mounts mate I have heard many stories of people being really unhappy with the vibrations they cause and having to pay to rectify it!
 
hopz121 said:
Viren said:
So I'm booked in to have rod bearings and bolts changed next Wednesday along with vibratechnic road mounts at cpc engineering. Will report back on condition of bearings in a new topic.

I would be careful with those engine mounts mate I have heard many stories of people being really unhappy with the vibrations they cause and having to pay to rectify it!

I was worried but read many reviews where people were happy with them and said there was little nvh. Although interested to hear any views
 
I can say from personal experience with the VT road mounts that there is slightly more NVH at idle (you can feel it when you put your leg against the drivetunnel) and that there is no more NVH at driving revs.
For say a 5 series the added nvh at idle might be a bad choice for the type of car that that is (as thats all about comfort waiting in daily traffic and such), but for a sportscar its in a perfectly acceptable range. An e85/6 is already a car with a lot of NVH in general on virtually all aspects.
Installing something like coilovers (any type) will give more NVH than those road mounts.
 
I concur with GuidoK having got Vibratechnic Road mounts on my N52 Coupe. It vibrates at idle but not on the move and it's not much due to the inherent smoothness of an I6.
 
I have the VT competition mounts on my ///M. The increase in NVH at idle is not intrusive and the stiffness of my modified suspension masks any perceptible difference when moving.
 
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