Pure water - what a difference
- Thread starter Big Red Cat
- Start date
This http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=362 is cheaper than that site for the vessel, be quick though, it's going up in price! Gone up by a couple of quid since the start of this thread 
I think the resin from Vyair is a bit cheaper too 
I got the small 10m karcher hose to use with mine, which I'm planning to only ever use with the vessel, although I'm not sure how much of an issue it could be using any old bit of hose really.
I think the resin from Vyair is a bit cheaper too I got the small 10m karcher hose to use with mine, which I'm planning to only ever use with the vessel, although I'm not sure how much of an issue it could be using any old bit of hose really.
By the seaside...
If you're going to use DI vessels, and you have the space, it's really worth thinking about buying two vessels and using them in series as this can extend resin life substantially
When you only use a single DI vessel, you have to replace the resin as soon as the TDS level on the output starts to rise - but you could continue using the resin for much longer even though the TDS level of the output would continue to rise it would still be substantially below the input level
If you use the output of a DI vessel to feed into a second DI vessel, the first vessel can continue treating water (and using up its resin) for as long as it's supplying reduced TDS level water to the second DI vessel. The resin in the second vessel lasts substantially longer as it's being fed with partially treated water.
Once the output from the second DI vessel starts to rise, you replace the resin in the first DI vessel and swap the vessels around so that the untreated water goes through vessel 2 first and then feeds into vessel 1
e.g.
Start with
Tap -> DI 1 -> DI 2 -> Hose
When TDS of the output starts to rise, this indicates resin in DI 1 is fully used, resin in DI 2 is partially used, so replace resin in DI 1 and swap connections to
Tap -> DI 2 -> Di 1 -> Hose
When you only use a single DI vessel, you have to replace the resin as soon as the TDS level on the output starts to rise - but you could continue using the resin for much longer even though the TDS level of the output would continue to rise it would still be substantially below the input level
If you use the output of a DI vessel to feed into a second DI vessel, the first vessel can continue treating water (and using up its resin) for as long as it's supplying reduced TDS level water to the second DI vessel. The resin in the second vessel lasts substantially longer as it's being fed with partially treated water.
Once the output from the second DI vessel starts to rise, you replace the resin in the first DI vessel and swap the vessels around so that the untreated water goes through vessel 2 first and then feeds into vessel 1
e.g.
Start with
Tap -> DI 1 -> DI 2 -> Hose
When TDS of the output starts to rise, this indicates resin in DI 1 is fully used, resin in DI 2 is partially used, so replace resin in DI 1 and swap connections to
Tap -> DI 2 -> Di 1 -> Hose
I toyed with this setup when I got mine, but wasn't fully bought into 0ppm working as well as I hoped. Well, given it does work perfectly I either need to buy another or wait for my father to no longer use the one I purchased for him.
2 top tips currently toyed with over the last fortnight
1) after rinsing with standard hosepipe, do the final rinse with a watering can with the spout ON. No need to sheet water off the car if it is 0ppm. About a 40% saving in volume based on my man maths.
2) release & re tighten the top of the filter after each use. Not proven yet, but hoping this reduces the effort involved in unscrewing the bugger after a few months of pressure build up in the vessel. Logically it makes sense, but no idea if it will work or not.
The flow meter is good, but makes you into a real miser!
2 top tips currently toyed with over the last fortnight
1) after rinsing with standard hosepipe, do the final rinse with a watering can with the spout ON. No need to sheet water off the car if it is 0ppm. About a 40% saving in volume based on my man maths.
2) release & re tighten the top of the filter after each use. Not proven yet, but hoping this reduces the effort involved in unscrewing the bugger after a few months of pressure build up in the vessel. Logically it makes sense, but no idea if it will work or not.
The flow meter is good, but makes you into a real miser!
A
Anonymous
Guest
I'm interested in this system, however is it just a case of waiting till the water starts drying with a stain again to determine that the resin needs changing ? And also does this resin just tip out of the vessel when it's spent ? And does it need any special sort of disposal consideration ?
Either waiting for the stains as a visible sign, or testing with a TDS meter for about £7.
Water marks should start to appear slightly at c10ppm but they are still marginal vs fully hard water. Once it goes off though, it rises rapidly & effectively becomes worse than using std water to begin with. I'm only on my first refill, so hardly an expert, but perhaps PVR will chip in.
I've recently added a flow meter to gauge how much I use & in future how long it will last. Regardless of duration, I do feel it is the best cleaning product I've had.....once you get used to leaving a car wet; just doesn't seem 'correct' after years of drying them.
I bagged the resin up & disposed of it with household refuse as didn't even think!
Water marks should start to appear slightly at c10ppm but they are still marginal vs fully hard water. Once it goes off though, it rises rapidly & effectively becomes worse than using std water to begin with. I'm only on my first refill, so hardly an expert, but perhaps PVR will chip in.
I've recently added a flow meter to gauge how much I use & in future how long it will last. Regardless of duration, I do feel it is the best cleaning product I've had.....once you get used to leaving a car wet; just doesn't seem 'correct' after years of drying them.
I bagged the resin up & disposed of it with household refuse as didn't even think!
You always have a gadget I need 
Apparently it goes off as the resin releases the previously bonded particles, but given I believed it was a chemical reaction I can't quite work it out, but it does go off very fast once spent.
How are you finding the Harvey's? Did my post on ion exchange make sense?
Apparently it goes off as the resin releases the previously bonded particles, but given I believed it was a chemical reaction I can't quite work it out, but it does go off very fast once spent.
How are you finding the Harvey's? Did my post on ion exchange make sense?