Sohailnisar
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Darren Slone said:Lovely looking car 8) welcome aboard
Proud new owner of this...
- Thread starter Sohailnisar
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Sohailnisar said:MrPT said:10mm spacer on the front axle is perfect with CSLs or reps with the same offsets.
I'm going up to 265/35 and 235/40 sizes to improve the ride/handling. Only done the rears so far. Looks like a sexy tractor!
Got any pics?
Whats the ride like with these?
Even with just the rear tyres changed it is much better than what I had before (275/30) on B roads and over expansion gaps etc. When moving to 19s I put the suspension to nearly full soft and the ride was acceptable, but still not compliant enough to handle sudden, small changes in the road surface. An 8cm sidewall is silly, in hindsight, but I wanted to keep the look of the 19s instead of moving to 18s.
Going to change the fronts soon too. It looks a bit odd, currently, but the main issue is the large difference between front/rear rolling radius, which could be affecting the DSC. Since I dropped the front to match the reduced arch gap at the rear, the car is also raked forward enough now that I've had to be more careful on speed bumps etc.
I'm not sure you will be able to do 235/40 and 265/35 without height-adjustable suspension, but 225/40 and 255/35 apparently works well. 245/35 and 265/35 might rub a little, but also looks like a good combination to go for since you have the added bonus of it reducing the factory stagger (helps remove understeer).
i run 18s on semi slick 235/40sF 265/35s R
Performance from this setup is fantastic, haven't noticed any more intervention with the DSC tbh but these have been on for a while.. Traction until warm can be limited , no rubbing at full compression, car is lowered only around 10mm from stock as you can see very conservative i can fit my hand right into the wheel arch , i wanted as much compliance as possible from the track based suspension setup, which mean travel needed to be retained, The tyre size give a lovely fat sidewall, which imo really suits the short and squat look of the z4M
From my experience this car behaves best on 18s, do lots of research before making your wheel choice.
Performance from this setup is fantastic, haven't noticed any more intervention with the DSC tbh but these have been on for a while.. Traction until warm can be limited , no rubbing at full compression, car is lowered only around 10mm from stock as you can see very conservative i can fit my hand right into the wheel arch , i wanted as much compliance as possible from the track based suspension setup, which mean travel needed to be retained, The tyre size give a lovely fat sidewall, which imo really suits the short and squat look of the z4M
From my experience this car behaves best on 18s, do lots of research before making your wheel choice.
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Sohailnisar
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MrPT said:Sohailnisar said:MrPT said:10mm spacer on the front axle is perfect with CSLs or reps with the same offsets.
I'm going up to 265/35 and 235/40 sizes to improve the ride/handling. Only done the rears so far. Looks like a sexy tractor!
Got any pics?
Whats the ride like with these?
Even with just the rear tyres changed it is much better than what I had before (275/30) on B roads and over expansion gaps etc. When moving to 19s I put the suspension to nearly full soft and the ride was acceptable, but still not compliant enough to handle sudden, small changes in the road surface. An 8cm sidewall is silly, in hindsight, but I wanted to keep the look of the 19s instead of moving to 18s.
IMAG4886_1.jpg
Going to change the fronts soon too. It looks a bit odd, currently, but the main issue is the large difference between front/rear rolling radius, which could be affecting the DSC. Since I dropped the front to match the reduced arch gap at the rear, the car is also raked forward enough now that I've had to be more careful on speed bumps etc.
I'm not sure you will be able to do 235/40 and 265/35 without height-adjustable suspension, but 225/40 and 255/35 apparently works well. 245/35 and 265/35 might rub a little, but also looks like a good combination to go for since you have the added bonus of it reducing the factory stagger (helps remove understeer).
Thank you for that! Some useful info there!
Car looks lovely. What suspension set up here you running?
Sohailnisar
Member
Beedub said:
I've not seen them wheels on a Z4M before - what are they?
I do agree - I did think 18s look better on a Z4M. But after seeing some lovely examples with 19s on I'm 50:50.
I don't want to break the bank either - 19" CSL Reps are pretty easy to come buy for a decent price. With most other stuff it seems to be £1k+. I guess the alternative is to leave it on the wheels its on with maybe a powder coat.
Sohailnisar
Member
Please excuse the dirt on the car, but first mod done...
Looks much better now. Hopefully better pictures to follow once it's been washed and waxed.
Looks much better now. Hopefully better pictures to follow once it's been washed and waxed.
Sohailnisar
Member
So I've been driving this for around a week now, here's some first thoughts:
In my S2000 I was very careful to not VTEC when cold, so to be safe I'd keep revs below 4k when cold.
I've noticed the amber lights that move up the rev range as the car gets warmer. What do people keep the revs at when cold?
At what point do people think it's safe to give it the beans?
I'm hyper aware of any sounds on my cars, so couple of queries:
- It takes a long time to warm up!
In my S2000 I was very careful to not VTEC when cold, so to be safe I'd keep revs below 4k when cold.
I've noticed the amber lights that move up the rev range as the car gets warmer. What do people keep the revs at when cold?
At what point do people think it's safe to give it the beans?
- The gearbox takes a little getting used to
- It's not that harsh!
- The engine!
I'm hyper aware of any sounds on my cars, so couple of queries:
- When changing from 1st to 2nd (to a lesser extent shifting up the other gears) - there's a bit of a 'wobble' when I engage the clutch to shift gear, I can't feel anything it's just that I can hear a wobble
- If I sit around 3.5k revs - it sounds like crackling - I know the S54 is a noisy engine - so my guess is that's just what it sounds like?
Really interesting to hear your thoughts. S2000 has a pretty cool engine too.
It does take a while to warm up, yep. Consensus seems to be that you should stick below 3k until the oil is up up temp at around 80-85C.
Gearbox is stiff - comparisons with the Honda usually aren't that flattering! 1st to 2nd needs to be either super gentle or super punchy. Anything in the middle tends to be a bit jerky.
3.5k could be Vanos rattling, although that's usually a little lower in the range. It's a horrible, gravelly metallic sound but is harmless. There was a service bulletin about it - SI B 11 05 06.
It does take a while to warm up, yep. Consensus seems to be that you should stick below 3k until the oil is up up temp at around 80-85C.
Gearbox is stiff - comparisons with the Honda usually aren't that flattering! 1st to 2nd needs to be either super gentle or super punchy. Anything in the middle tends to be a bit jerky.
3.5k could be Vanos rattling, although that's usually a little lower in the range. It's a horrible, gravelly metallic sound but is harmless. There was a service bulletin about it - SI B 11 05 06.
Sohailnisar
Member
MrPT said:
Thank you MrPT
Did a bit of quick research, few people have mentioned it on M3cutters too, seems like it's just what the S54 sounds like.
Sohailnisar
Member
Got my oil analysis back. Looks like a clean bill of health to me...
Sohailnisar
Member
RedUn said:Remove the cdv, just like on the S2000. Helps a lot with the gear change
Ex S2000 owner 8)
I'm looking in to that.
I think that'll end up being my next mod.
Sohailnisar
Member
Lower said:There are quite a few ex s2000 owners on here
.
I'm another one
Awesome, I'm loving the Z4M but I think I'd get another S2000 one day, loved that car.
You've got the isofix on your car - did this come factory fitted?
I'm having a baby in November - mine doesn't have it, thinking of getting it retrofitted. Just wondered if you've done yours and if you've got any tips?
Sohailnisar said:
I searched for a while to specifically find a car factory fitted with isofix and airbag disable, but i did explore retrofitting it.
There used to be a BMW retrofit kit for the air bag disable for the Z4M roadster that i think fits the coupe. I was going to get a dealer to fit it when i was considering a M Coupe that didn't have it fitted. The dealer was a bit nervous of fitting it because there is also some coding required and they hadn't done it before, but where willing to do it.
The fact that i couldn't turn of the air bag in the S2000 was one of the main reasons i started looking around. The Z4M was a substantial upgrade performance wise, the Coupe is surprisingly practical (its easier to get my son's bike in the boot of my car than it is in my wife's evoque) and when i found one of the later cars (all of which i believe have isofix) it was a no brainer.
I had a couple of S2000's and drove them daily for 7 years. Great cars, but i wouldn't go back.
