Protomolecule confirmed!

Monkeydonkeyratmagic

Member
 Windsor
For those that know what that is.

So my car for yonks has sounded like it's been bouncing metal. That seems to have healed itself.

Today... drove for 2hrs up the m6 and my usual runflat/canadian brake warning/ and TCS light were on and have been for months...

Got back in the car.... not there anymore.

Car is officially self repairing.

Who needs mechanics with this kind of tech!
 
Monkeydonkeyratmagic said:
For those that know what that is.

So my car for yonks has sounded like it's been bouncing metal. That seems to have healed itself.

Today... drove for 2hrs up the m6 and my usual runflat/canadian brake warning/ and TCS light were on and have been for months...

Got back in the car.... not there anymore.

Car is officially self repairing.

Who needs mechanics with this kind of tech!

I've got exactly the same symptoms. I looked at the codes with Carly, it said offside front wheel speed sensor so I replaced it. Now I've got two codes which I think are pointing to the ABS pump. I'm assuming that code for a brake pressure sensor would be different although the warning lights would be the same, but I'd be grateful if anyone could confirm that before I go down the ABS pump refurb route please?
 
ph001 said:
Brake pressure sensor on ABS unit.

Abs was always working. I think what it is, the incline of the roads and tracking. Holding the steering wheel right just to go in a straight line. Wheel speed sensors should be matching but the steering sensor is pissed and doesn't fit within the parameters so sent it pissy.
 
Ah, yeh those relate directly to the pump (and connector but that usually goes away when the pump is sorted). Almost certainly the carbon brushes that are stuck on the ABS motor. Somewhere like ECU testing will sort it for £200 or so, or there are members on here like Ducklakeview or Andyfanshawe that are experienced in fixing these. See here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmCe98MZ-Yw&feature=youtu.be
 
ph001 said:
Ah, yeh those relate directly to the pump (and connector but that usually goes away when the pump is sorted). Almost certainly the carbon brushes that are stuck on the ABS motor. Somewhere like ECU testing will sort it for £200 or so, or there are members on here like Ducklakeview or Andyfanshawe that are experienced in fixing these. See here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmCe98M ... e=youtu.be
Thanks for that. The job looks straightforward enough, the only problem I can forsee is getting the unit properly bled. Time to invest in a lead and software package methinks!
 
Yeh, INPA has a proper bleed routine that makes it a doddle, but even without, it can be done with a basic pressure bleeder - you just have to get the ABS to activate to spin the motor and pump up. Bit of loose gravel does the trick. I'd be using INPA though!

For re-mounting the motor onto the pump, you can just use a good quality silicone to bond it on. The best thing to use to break the aluminium tabs to get it off is a sharp chisel rather than a dremmel.
 
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