Post up your Geo Set up Sheets

Aliv6

Senior member
 Aberdeen
Hi all,

Can you post up the set-up you went for/advised to go for.

Here was my last one, curious to see how it differs to the masses.

AR

SKMBT_C55210050916151_0002.jpg


After

SKMBT_C55210050916151_0001.jpg
 
If you are interested in non-M setups, Ill find and ppost mine
did you change naything from factory recommended setup?
 
I need to get this done soon as well. I wonder how it should be set up now that I have eibach pro springs & 12mm spacers with standard M wheels?
 
McKoval said:
If you are interested in non-M setups, Ill find and ppost mine
did you change naything from factory recommended setup?

Not really mate.

I asked them to run the factory set-up, although i have no idea what the factory spec is. i also have 15mm spacers and i'm sure the winter/potholes has had it's impact on the car.
 
Great idea for a thread Ali. I'm going to copy you and start one for the non-elite (non-M's) I think.

I'm also unsure what the factory set-up is, but that's what I asked my guy in Bonnybridge to do when I had mine done, and it's quite a bit different on my 3.0i to your M...

Edit: non-///M geometry thread HERE :)
 
Dont have a printout of my latest geo i'm afraid but i veered off the factory settings myself. Told the guy to remove the alignment pins and to get as much camber as possible for starters. Dont remember what i did with toe though since it's been several months ago. The car feels slightly more aggressive in its setup and slightly less understeery which is what i wanted really.
 
I'll have to try and find mine, been a while since I had it done.

I noticed that the Zed has an aggressive rear camber though, (I think mine was about -2.4), has anyone tried bringing that down a touch? Was thinking -2 or -1.8? I would just like my rear tyres to last a little longer!
 
ga41 said:
Dont have a printout of my latest geo i'm afraid but i veered off the factory settings myself. Told the guy to remove the alignment pins and to get as much camber as possible for starters. Dont remember what i did with toe though since it's been several months ago. The car feels slightly more aggressive in its setup and slightly less understeery which is what i wanted really.

I put mine back in because although the front gripped better the car was becoming a handful on our delightful roads at speed. It followed every camber in the road.
 
Blue said:
I'll have to try and find mine, been a while since I had it done.

I noticed that the Zed has an aggressive rear camber though, (I think mine was about -2.4), has anyone tried bringing that down a touch? Was thinking -2 or -1.8? I would just like my rear tyres to last a little longer!

I reckon the would assist with the rear traction light flashing over uneven surfaces too but could decrease grip.
 
Blue said:
I'll have to try and find mine, been a while since I had it done.

I noticed that the Zed has an aggressive rear camber though, (I think mine was about -2.4), has anyone tried bringing that down a touch? Was thinking -2 or -1.8? I would just like my rear tyres to last a little longer!
-2.4 on the rear is not possible unless you're running adjustable arms or have some serious suspension fatigue going down :?
 
a11y said:
Great idea for a thread Ali. I'm going to copy you and start one for the non-elite (non-M's) I think.

I'm also unsure what the factory set-up is, but that's what I asked my guy in Bonnybridge to do when I had mine done, and it's quite a bit different on my 3.0i to your M...

Edit: non-///M geometry thread HERE :)

Yeh, this forum isn't particularly great for "Knowledgebase" lets hope we can all contribute to the sharing.
 
I found this on PH, mmmmm five was the author. He said:

"If that's on standard suspension (correctly ballasted & balanced with simulated driver & fuel), then the factory figures are:

Front Camber -1.0º(±0.3º) - with no more than a 0.3º difference between left & right
Rear Camber -1.8º(±0.3º) - with no more than a 0.3º difference between left & right

Front Toe: 0.03º to 0.13º
Rear Toe: 0.18º to 0.28º"

So Ali looks like you need more toe on the rear this time, after driving it the rear never felt right more toe would make the your car feel more stable. I'd also be looking to reduce the front toe figure if you feel you need a better turn in.
 
Another one I found online for reference.

After adjustment

Total toe(FA) 0.22
LF Toe-in 0.10
RF Toe-in 0.12
LF Camber -1.63
RF Camber -1.34

Total toe(RA)0.75
LR Toe-in 0.51
RR Toe-in 0.24
LR Camber -1.81
RR Camber -1.85

Thrust angle -0.13

Wheelbase difference 0.05
Track difference 1.04
Front wheel setback 0.03
Rear wheel setback 0.09
 
Good topic!

I know next to nothing about these settings, but why should the settings be different for left & right? Is this due to the weight distribution of the car? If so, how can it take the weight of a passenger & fuel load into consideration?

And, not that I’ve looked, I wonder if the correct settings are available (if they are different) for a car fitted with eibach pro springs. And, would spacers make any difference? :?
 
My guess is that they are different because its very difficult to get them exactly the same, as long as they are close you should be ok. See above, within 0.03 degrees is recommended for toe for example.

Google each term and read up on what they mean, toe, camber and caster.

There is no 'correct' setting, these settings all work differently in different situations. It's all down to preference at the end of the day. The settings are a trade off between turn in, balance, understeer, oversteer and overall stability.

A car with Eibachs as standard will have more camber than a car without, so you adjust accordingly.
 
daz05 said:
My guess is that they are different because its very difficult to get them exactly the same, as long as they are close you should be ok. See above, within 0.03 degrees is recommended for toe for example.

Google each term and read up on what they mean, toe, camber and caster.

There is no 'correct' setting, these settings all work differently in different situations. It's all down to preference at the end of the day. The settings are a trade off between turn in, balance, understeer, oversteer and overall stability.

A car with Eibachs as standard will have more camber than a car without, so you adjust accordingly.

So ive a set of eibachs to fit, will I have more camber (more negative) on the wheels after I fit them? This is what I am thinking anyway, if so by how much approx would you guess?

I ask because i currently have a little wheel rub on the front when cornering hard. I was going to increase the camber (more -ve) to sort this rubbing but if I fit the eibachs would I not need to adjust the camber as the wheel will be more cambered from lowering. (i realise i need an allignment after fitting but im just curious)
 
I have no idea on values. I also have no idea where the car is rubbing.

I would say lowering would make the rubbing worse though, you must be running differerent wheels.

However, you can adjust the camber both ways to alleviate the problem, but I would look at your wheels first.
 
This might be useful, found on a Lotus forum but it refers to the M Coupe:

UNDERSTE.GIF


OVERSTEE.GIF
 
daz05 said:
I found this on PH, mmmmm five was the author. He said:

"If that's on standard suspension (correctly ballasted & balanced with simulated driver & fuel), then the factory figures are:

Front Camber -1.0º(±0.3º) - with no more than a 0.3º difference between left & right
Rear Camber -1.8º(±0.3º) - with no more than a 0.3º difference between left & right

Front Toe: 0.03º to 0.13º
Rear Toe: 0.18º to 0.28º"

So Ali looks like you need more toe on the rear this time, after driving it the rear never felt right more toe would make the your car feel more stable. I'd also be looking to reduce the front toe figure if you feel you need a better turn in.
His toe settings at 0º8' on the front equates to 0.13º each side, on the rear left 0º12' equates to 0.2º and 0º13' on the right equates to 0.22º. One day perhaps all angle measurements will be quoted in decimal degrees as opposed to degrees, minutes and seconds? Even better, radians would be better to remove any ambiguity in which method of angle measurement is being used!
 
Back
Top Bottom