POST FaceLift Roof not working

G

gmetcalf

Member
 Camberley
Hi All,

I know there are lots of threads on this, i've been through quite a few, but cant find any for facelift models.

*POST FACE LIFT - 56 Plate*

Problem:
Windows Drop, Roof "unhooks", then nothing. Press the button again and I can hear a relay change over, but no motor noises, nothing.

Checks:
Luggage Space / Parcel Shelf Microswitch. With the shelf up, nothing happens, flashes orange. Indicating the shelf is in the wrong position. So the microswitch is assumed working as with the shelf down, the windows drop etc.

Previous Symptoms:
None, It worked fine a week or so ago, not used since.

Questions
Does this ring any bells with anyone ?
Does anyone know which fuse is for the motor ?
Where is the motor located ( so I can check it has 12 volts ... )
I have no separate warranty - would this be covered under a standard warranty ? ( i assume not )

As ever any help greatly appreciated.

Gareth
 
Umm... 33 views and no replies :poke:

I assume consensus is its another Roof Motor ? Although I though they had been redesigned to stop this on new models ?

Fuses are all Ok - numbers 12, 31 and 55 ( for reference )
Shelf switch is Ok - Windows drop
Motor appears inaccessible - Does anyone know if its possible to check the wiring loom rather than the motor directly ?

Next Steps.
Check Drainage holes to see if there blocked ( Am i expecting a gush of water ? )
If thats dry take it to a stealers to check :cry:

FYI
Manually putting the roof up is HARD work - took two of us to do. ( You need to pull the little red rip cord in the boot, about 4cm and twist to drop the hood ). I wont be doing that again in a hurry !
 
The fuse box is behind the glove box - you need to pop the catches and it drops down to reveal the box and the fuses are listed on the cover. Its pretty intuitive to remove. (I'm assuming the roof fuse is there).

So you've got no motor noise at all from the outset? Is the roof moving at all or is it just the catches unlocking? And do I take it the thing now remains unlocked?

There is evidence of just one faceliuft motor failure but its not clear of the cause - they aere certainly properly waterproofed cpompared to the pre-facelift, so we'll all be interested to know the root cause when you find it....but as you say, simple stuff first

...EDIT - I assume your windows work OK?
 
Try winding windows down halfway and see if that makes a difference.....if you need to lock it manually let me know, I happen to have my handbook with me today :)
 
Thanks for the reply.

To clarify, I press and hold the roof down button, the windows drop half way, the rook unhooks ( so moves back say 1cm where the torque of the roof material pulls it ), but then nothing, silence. If I release and press the button again, i can hear the relay change over, but nothing. No movement, no noise. "Assisting" the roof, doesn't do anything ( I've read sometimes they need oiling ). But there has been no signs of failure, which is why it still feels electrical.

The windows drop automatically, and then on subsequent retries are already lowered - thanks for the idea though :D

Ill check out the drainage holes.

Does anyone have any links to OEM suppliers of Roof Motors ? ( Just in case )

Cheers

G
 
I think you need a decent diagnosis though before going too mad....any good indi's your way?

I assume you locked it shut at the catch with the Allan key then?

One last thing worth trying...on a facelift your key should be default programmed to open the roof remotely....cos its so long since summer I can't remember the exact drill but I think you lock the car then press and hold the unlock button - it takes a few seconds so be patient - the roof will open completely (keep unlock button depressed throughout). If it does then that would point to the switch, if it doesn't, then I've outlived my usefulness :cry:

Let us know?
 
If you take the grille out from behind the passenger seat (beside the cubby hole/subwoofer) you will find the connectors for the roof motor, you will also get better access removing the door seal by the rear panel and gently prising the panel away. The connector can be separated and tested to see if there is power , If you have power there you will most likely have a motor problem or connections on the motor, so it is roof out.
I can't remember which connector it is, but it will have 2 larger gauge wires. Also not sure if the motor wires run to the top or bottom half of the connection so you would be best to test both halves.
 
I thought the rip cord had been dropped on the facelift models, mine hasn't got one in the boot.
 
srhutch said:
I thought the rip cord had been dropped on the facelift models, mine hasn't got one in the boot.
Click to expand...

Mine has a cord on the roof of the boot on the left hand side as you look at the boot. It doesn't have a cord against the back wall ( as detailed in the manual ). Mines was registered in December 2006, has clear indicators, different body kit / bumpers etc.

Do you think they may have fitted an old roof ? ( and hence motor )

Does anyone else with a facelift have a small red plastic ring on the roof of their boot on a face lift model ?

( aquazi has a 2008 Z4 and mentioned in a post he has a red rip cord ... )
 
My cars at home but the facelift manual in front of me shows a pic of the plastic loop which appears to be 6-8 inches inboard of the left hand side luggage area as you say.

Instructions say:

1. Pull handle all the way out and turn handle 90 degrees (clockwise??) until it engages.
2. Pull cable in luggage area trim (looks to be middle of back of boot?) - releases stowage compartment and button between seats for releasing soft top.
3. Press Button 1 (the mysterious big button inside the car above the stowage compartment).
4. Grip soft top by its frame and guide it to windscreen frame.
5. Pull off cover in centre of front of soft top frame.
6. Engage Allen key from toolkit in socket.
7. Pull frame down as far as possible.
8. Turn Allen key to left until frame is locked into windscreen.

Can post pic of manual pages if it helps...let me know. But sounds like this is what you're reading?

paul
 
Yes thats it Paul.

I assume they didnt update the manual with the facelift, because step 2 and 3 don't exist on mine. Step 3 is only for manual roofs, and there is not cable in my car for step 2.

I've done alot more reading and its pretty much certain to be the motor :( - So watch out - Facelift does not mean no roof problems :(

Now to decide if i want to pay through the nose at a dealer, or give it a go myself ( which im suprisingly tempted to do ) .... :evil:

I think a quick trip to the dealer next week to see if they can do me a good price, else order a motor and wait for a dry weekend. :roll:
 
I will have to have another look then but having removed sections to disconnect the CD changer I would have thought I would have seen it.

Knowing my luck one of the 30 or so Z4 drivers will find it for me on Sunday.
 
If its been cold really wheather (as here in Sweden) I know that the facelift motor needs a few pushes on the button to start up
Try to push the open button rapidly for about 2-4 minutes, the motor starts to make a high klicking noice and should then start as normal
After that it will work perfect until you left it in cold for a few days then you have to start the procedure again
This problem is only when its really cold
 
All the gutters are clear so i don't think its a motor corrosion issue, fuses checked, shelf microswitch checked, roof control module "looked" at and ran away :D ..... So its going into the stealers this week - ill report back what it was in case someone else has the same issue.

Thanks for the tip HighStream, Ill give it a try, but i'm not holding out much hope. Its cold, but not 'Sweden' cold here ;-) As an aside - reading up on the system, its not suposed to operate outside of set temperatures, but ive used mine at -9 and it worked fine ! Its mentioned in the handbook.
 
Hello,
I got a second hand June '05 last July. It was second hand and in great condition. The car is pretty much a weekend car but whenever it is sunny the top was down. We started noting that we had the same problems. How have things turned out with your top gmetcalk? Did you go to a dealer or find a specialist?

I haven't tried putting the top down since November, but now that the snow is gone and it is almost Spring, it is definitely time to get it sorted.

Any suggestion welcome.
 
Got my car back, all sorted now :driving:

Its was the hydrolic motor, sitting under water. This is despite the fact the gutters were clear, and its a facelift model ( '56 Nov 06 ). I can only assume the gutters were blocked at some point in the past ( although i've never cleaned them and am confused how they cleaner themselves :? I brought it June 2010 ).

I went to a dealer, as I wanted a diagnosis before deciding what to do. That was £100, I already knew the motor would be around £320, and BMW offered to change it for £875 all in. So for £455 extra ( from where i was ) I decided I would prefer not to have the hassle ( no garage, no time ) and get 2 years warranty on the work.

Lesson learnt "Face lift still suffers from submerged roof motors"

Thanks for everyone help and Ideas, much appreciated....

Now bring on the sunny weather :D
 
Well done! Good decision too I reckon. Slightly disheartening that 'posts' still suffer, but clearly the whole drainage setup is ill-designed. Not good news for you though Helga! Let us know how you get on yeah...... :thumbsup:
 
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