Porter Cable

pvr said:
PaulN said:
Bonnet paint thickness cant be measured with the basic Gauges as they work on run of the mill metal only.

Sorry - don't understand that bit. What do you mean with that?

I believe he is saying the hood/bonnet is aluminum/aluminium not sheet metal steel therefore the gauge will not work.
 
ok, the gauge I used seemed to read it fine. I was not aware that there were different gauges around that could not deal with different metals.

Thanks for the clarification though :thumbsup:
 
20ducks said:
pvr said:
PaulN said:
Bonnet paint thickness cant be measured with the basic Gauges as they work on run of the mill metal only.

Sorry - don't understand that bit. What do you mean with that?

I believe he is saying the hood/bonnet is aluminum/aluminium not sheet metal steel therefore the gauge will not work.

Is the bonnet Ali on the new facelift car? The boot read fine but the bonnet wouldn't give any readings.

PVR

What gauge did you use and is it yours?

Cheers

PaulN
 
No, it was at the dealers as well as the polishing company where I had my car treated when new. I briefly thought about buying one from detailingworld.co.uk when there was a group buy going on, but let it go. During that research, I never heard anyone mention that those units would not work everywhere.
 
pvr said:
No, it was at the dealers as well as the polishing company where I had my car treated when new. I briefly thought about buying one from detailingworld.co.uk when there was a group buy going on, but let it go. During that research, I never heard anyone mention that those units would not work everywhere.

The Group buys on detailing world defo dont read plastic so most bumpers are out.

So is my Bonnet Ali then? It defo wouldn't read at all.

Cheers

PaulN
 
I have PC, too. Country lake pads,megs and edge 2000 are what I use and are great. For BMW paint is better to use Menzerna polish such as 3.02 and then 106. After polish with Klasse all in one and then P21s carn wax. Your Z4 will shine ! I personally have 3 BMWs and that is what I use. Before you polish clay first...
 
Well I used my PC for the first time today. My wifes Honda needed a detailing....

After washing, drying, Claybaring, I was ready to use the finishing polish. The Accord did not need a more aggressive polish..

Now I need some advice from our OCD Detailers.......

After prolonged use, the PC became very hot... I could not keep my hand on it... I attribute this to the PC bogging down while in use.

Is this normal?

What I was doing, is starting with a white pad, I put a spritz of pad conditioner on the pad then about a quarters size of polish.

Put it on the car then rub it around to get better coverage. Then start the PC on setting 3 to further spread the polish around. On this setting, not applying pressure, just the weight of the PC, it would start the bog down...

Now with it all spread out, I would up the setting to 4 or 5. It would bog down less, but if I start to lift the PC up a little to get more RPM's then the polish would start to splatter.

Now, I know I will need more practice and much of what I learn will be mostly, finness, but am I doing anything drastically wrong?

Please tell this Padwan what he is doing wrong.... :rofl:
 
What pad (make, size and color), what size backing plate are you using (yes, there are different sizes), where on the pad are you spreading the product and lastly, what product (name, grade etc)?
 
20ducks said:
What pad (make, size and color), what size backing plate are you using (yes, there are different sizes), where on the pad are you spreading the product and lastly, what product (name, grade etc)?

Lake County pad, White, 5.5". Backing plate is the 5" that came with the PC.

I tried a quarter size in the middle of the pad and I also tried a small line running around and toward the outside of the pad. Same effect.

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish and Megs NXT 2.0 wax
 
Shipkiller
Couple of observations - my pc has never got hot to the touch, slightly warm perhaps after use, but never hot.

In terms of 'bogging down'. I can only assume you mean that the pad is not 'spinning', rather just appears to vibrate. IMHO it's not supposed to spin fast and indeed is not actually driven, rather it's free to revolve and move around as the counterbalance shakes it. To me this is the design and is what prevents any form of regular pattern, else you may as well just use an angle grinder with a pad on...

From there conjucture is that you are applying so litte pressure that the head is building up speed and splashing your products around with centrifugal force.

No expert but I've done a good few hours behind the pc on several cars so far.
 
Shipkiller said:
20ducks said:
What pad (make, size and color), what size backing plate are you using (yes, there are different sizes), where on the pad are you spreading the product and lastly, what product (name, grade etc)?

Lake County pad, White, 5.5". Backing plate is the 5" that came with the PC.

I tried a quarter size in the middle of the pad and I also tried a small line running around and toward the outside of the pad. Same effect.

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish and Megs NXT 2.0 wax

I was recommended to do a line of polish down the centre and 1 pea size bog either side to prine the pad then just 4 pear size blobs after that.

They say put an arrow on the backing plate so you can see it spin. I found if it jumps its because your not flat on the pannel.

Cheers

PaulN
 
The pad was spinning but just very slowly... unless I started to lift the PC up a little...then it would spin too fast. I guess I have to find the right pressure for this. Practice makes perfect...
 
Never had that issue either. Bring it to Groton and we will have a session :D I am booked in the Hilton now by the way.
 
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