PLEASE ROOF HELP NEEDED A68D

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IsmailTabibi

New member
 California
Hello guys, i joined this forum specifically because of all the forums i keep reading and apparently there is a “legend” called robbiz4 if i remember correctly but i need some help

I bought a 2012 BMW z4 28i with the n20 and a 6 speed manual and i test drove it and everything was perfect i closed the roof and opened it multiple times

I get home after driving for like 2 hours and i go to close the roof and it says roof movement impaired

Im like wtf so i take it to my shop and read the codes and i get the code for A68D roof microswitch and the roof is stuck open


So i drive the car around for a couple days stuck with an open roof and then yesterday at work during my 30 minute break i try to close the roof and it closed miraculously

So i open it halfway to inspect some wires and one of them seemed to be fried so i tape it up and close the roof

Now today i get to open the roof and the rear windshield opens and goes over the top and it stops and just says roof movement impaired and now it wont close or open


So i lift the window thing by hand and i go to close it and it closes


So i put it on protools and i test the live value of the switches and they both switch yes and no works perfectly so im not sure what to do now
 

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I think you must have a brake in the wiring running to the sensors and you need to replace the sections of the wiring with some highly flexible wire, if you do a search for broken wire you will find plenty of information.
 
But when i check the sensor on the live data and i press the switch manually it works and changes from no to yes on both sides, unless theres another sensor im not aware of but its one only one with a yellow and brown wire
 
Ismail... The same exact thing happened to me on my 35IS. Same code... same symptoms. You can probably find my thread on here documenting the issue. The problem, as Robbi will explain, is that the wires BMW used are garbage and they break at the bows in the roof harness. The solution is to replace the wires from the trunk to the switch on the right hand side of the car. There are two pairs of wires (one for the micro switch and one for the hall sensor). While you are doing the work, replace both sets as well as the wires on the left side. If they are not broken now, they will be. This is a roof off repair in order to get at the wires. While the switch may be bad, it is unlikely. Protool does not give you enough fidelity to be able to definitively say that the switches are bad or now. ISTA is a better tool (I don't have it...). I replaced the wires on my roof with very flexible silicone insulated control wires. Comparing the original wires to the replacements would be like comparing a piece of dry spaghetti to a piece of cooked spaghetti. Eventually, the hydraulic lines will fail too but hopefully that will be years down the road. The wires are well documented... the hydraulic lines, not so much. Hydraulics would likely require full top actuator replacement... or just reclassify your car as a coupe.

For the top off repair, you should order a new fastener kit. The existing bolt are installed with permanent threadlocker. The new ones come with the threadlocker installed. Make sure you have a helper to assist you in manually repositioning or removing the roof (front section can stay on). The work is not hard but it is tedious. I'm in Nebraska so feel free to PM me if you have questions. Best of luck. These cars are great but they will make you question your life choices.
 
Just find the broken wire and slice a new length.
Don't take the roof apart.
Unfortunate i lost my pictures of repairs.
Good start point is this wire diagram.
L is left par..R is the 2 right pairs.
Where the roof arms fold remove the tape and underneath are the wires.
All my cars wires broke on straight sections.
 

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You will see the insulation has shrunk and the wires finally break.
Intermittent operation then ensures if the broken wires just happen to touch.
 
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