Planning an induction kit on a 2.0

[JimmyPop]

I've been thinking about getting a cold air induction intake for my trusty 2.0. The N46 engine is the same engine as the E87 118/120i and the E46 120i and induction kits seem pretty easy to come by for these although not as easily to come by for the Z4. Looking at the schematics of the air intake system for both vehicles, the major difference appears to be the rubber boot which connects to the MAS/temperature sensor. In the Z4, this is a bifurcated boot (part 11 in this diagram), whereas in the 120i, this is a straight piece (part 10 in this diagram).

I don't know if i'm being naive, but could I sort my problem by just swapping the rubber boot from my Zed with one from a 120i? If so, I'm thinking I should be able to use the kit that's suitable for a 1-series.

Would be interested to hear what people's thoughts are on this before I go and waste even more money!

And before anyone says it - no, I'm not going to sell my car and buy a bigger engine. I'm too fond of it now!

 

[cj_eds]

My thoughts aren't very helpful to you :- I'm thinking I'm looking forward to hearing your mighty 4-pot on the first meet once the kit is fitted

 

[Adamski]

Same as cj.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JimmyPop]

That's if it works.

I might just get a *cough cough splutter* followed by a red engine light!

 

[v8z4]

The pre-throttle body intake tubing is just that, tubing. Its only purpose is to make a sealed connection between the MAF and the throttle body. So, as long as you keep it sealed, swap to your hearts desire.

 

[JimmyPop]

The pre-throttle body intake tubing is just that, tubing. Its only purpose is to make a sealed connection between the MAF and the throttle body. So, as long as you keep it sealed, swap to your hearts desire.

I thought so - thanks for clarifying. The current one has two connections to the airbox but I'm guessing this won't be a problem as I'll be removing both when I put the induction kit in.

 

[JaEdBa]

i posted a similar (more protracted) idea on a thread about air intakes a while ago....i agree with the previous, you should be ok to swap it, the only caveat i would put on it is the MAFs are quite sensitive, so if it is mounted, say 6" further away from the engine, it could make a difference, i doubt it though.

 

[andysat]

Looking forward to the outcome of this!

 

[v8z4]

i posted a similar (more protracted) idea on a thread about air intakes a while ago....i agree with the previous, you should be ok to swap it, the only caveat i would put on it is the MAFs are quite sensitive, so if it is mounted, say 6" further away from the engine, it could make a difference, i doubt it though.

MAF-to-TB distance primarily affect transitional response time (sensor lag).

The closer to the TB the MAF can be placed together, the more "responsive" the MAF will be to transitions/throttle changes. Performance applications try to keep the MAF as close as possible to the TB in order to gain quick response to rapid throttle changes.

At the same time, the closer the MAF is to the TB, the more "noise" the MAF reads due to cylinder pulses causing start/stop motion of air currents at the TB. Putting the MAF far from the TB makes for very smooth and "accurate" measurement of true air volume, but the sensor is slow to respond to transitions/throttle changes. Passenger cars and trucks try to keep the MAF far from the TB to make for smoother signal response.

Another thing to keep in mind it avoid putting the MAF immediately before/after any bends. When air turns a corner, it will tend to hug the outside wall and this can cause an uneven flow through the MAF resulting in poor reading.

 

[JimmyPop]

Thanks for the explanation. I'm guessing that there shouldn't be any issues with the MAF seeing as I'm using a rubber pipe from the same engine but in another model. I've ordered the pipe in question and will have a look at it over the next few days.

 

[JaEdBa]

i posted a similar (more protracted) idea on a thread about air intakes a while ago....i agree with the previous, you should be ok to swap it, the only caveat i would put on it is the MAFs are quite sensitive, so if it is mounted, say 6" further away from the engine, it could make a difference, i doubt it though.

MAF-to-TB distance primarily affect transitional response time (sensor lag).

The closer to the TB the MAF can be placed together, the more "responsive" the MAF will be to transitions/throttle changes. Performance applications try to keep the MAF as close as possible to the TB in order to gain quick response to rapid throttle changes.

At the same time, the closer the MAF is to the TB, the more "noise" the MAF reads due to cylinder pulses causing start/stop motion of air currents at the TB. Putting the MAF far from the TB makes for very smooth and "accurate" measurement of true air volume, but the sensor is slow to respond to transitions/throttle changes. Passenger cars and trucks try to keep the MAF far from the TB to make for smoother signal response.

Another thing to keep in mind it avoid putting the MAF immediately before/after any bends. When air turns a corner, it will tend to hug the outside wall and this can cause an uneven flow through the MAF resulting in poor reading.

yeah...what he said..^^

 

[JaEdBa]

Thanks for the explanation. I'm guessing that there shouldn't be any issues with the MAF seeing as I'm using a rubber pipe from the same engine but in another model. I've ordered the pipe in question and will have a look at it over the next few days.

is the MAF the same on both engines?

 

[JimmyPop]

Thanks for the explanation. I'm guessing that there shouldn't be any issues with the MAF seeing as I'm using a rubber pipe from the same engine but in another model. I've ordered the pipe in question and will have a look at it over the next few days.

is the MAF the same on both engines?

I assume so as the part number is the same for both. Time will tell if I'm missing something stupidly simple!

 

[BMWZ4MC]

 

[chrisj900]

i would keep the standard air box and just upgrade the filter and remove the air deflector cup thing (part 17) to increase air flow (maybe add an air ram kit)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BZ12&mospid=48508&btnr=13_1159&hg=13&fg=20

would only use an induction kit if it was something like this, but would be a good chance of setting off a light

http://www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?a=i&k=s&p=BMC74CDASP03#

 

[deej78]

Just wondering how you have got on with this?

 

[lacroupade]

I think the reality is that the MAF is actually not that sensitive. I always use the comparison between engine response at external air temperatures of say -10C and +25C.....its minimal.

I'm no scientist but the graph shows the difference between say +20c and -10C is just 0.15kgs per cubic metre.......I just thought this might turn somebody on :lol:

 

[lacroupade]

PS - my personal experience of using induction kits on turbo diesels in offroad scenarios is that they really tend to come into their own when replacing tortuous, badly-designed air inlet pipework - often present on workhorse vehicles to avoid other problems, but its always been the forum's belief that the BMW system is already pretty efficient.

I'd be asking the manufacturer to produce some proper 'before' and 'after' documented test results before splashing out.