Pierburg Water Pump for E86

H

harrycodlife

Member
 Stevenage
I am reaching out to see if anyone in our community has a Pierburg water pump, specifically the model suitable for the BMW Z4 E86 with the N52 engine. The part number is 7.02851.20.0.

My BMW Z4 may be in need of a replacement water pump, it's booked into the garage this Tuesday for a check, and I would greatly appreciate any assistance in sourcing this specific part. If you have one available or know where I might be able to find one, do please let me know.

Many Thanks :roll: :thumbsup:
 
Amazon £284, Ebay £212 but posting from Germany, Autodoc £284. I am not sure the garage will fit a part you supplied due to warranty
 
True-Blue said:
Oh no, I thought you’d found a buyer and sold it.
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I have a prospective buyer who has placed a deposit on the vehicle. However, upon inspecting under the bonnet, he noticed a small pool of water in one of the engine mounting brackets. This has raised his concern that the water pump might be malfunctioning and he fears it could fail when he drives the car home. Additionally, he observed that the fan was running unnecessarily after a brief test drive on the A1M during a hot day.

I was so focused on his inspection of the vehicle that I completely forgot to mention that I had taken the car for a hand wash at 9 o'clock that morning, which is likely the source of the water. To alleviate the buyer's concerns, I have booked the car into a garage tomorrow for them to inspect the water pump and perform an OBD-II scan and report, which the buyer has requested to see.

The gentleman is keen on the vehicle and wishes to proceed with the purchase, but he would like the water pump to be checked before he commits. It appears these pumps tend to fail around 80,000 miles, and this particular car has already done 85,000 miles.
 
harrycodlife said:
I was so focused on his inspection of the vehicle that I completely forgot to mention that I had taken the car for a hand wash at 9 o'clock that morning, which is likely the source of the water.
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Highly unlikely the pump is letting water out. It doesn't fail like a mechanical one where water escapes past the bearing. It usually just gives up electrically.
But on that mileage it is on borrowed time so for everyone's peace of mind I would replace it, along with the thermostat that mounts on it.
 
enuff_zed said:
harrycodlife said:
I was so focused on his inspection of the vehicle that I completely forgot to mention that I had taken the car for a hand wash at 9 o'clock that morning, which is likely the source of the water.
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Highly unlikely the pump is letting water out. It doesn't fail like a mechanical one where water escapes past the bearing. It usually just gives up electrically.
But on that mileage it is on borrowed time so for everyone's peace of mind I would replace it, along with the thermostat that mounts on it.
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Thank you for explaining. I understand that the pump usually fails electrically rather than mechanically. Given the mileage, replacing it along with the thermostat that mounts on it seems wise for peace of mind. I appreciate your advice. :thumbsup:
 
I think another way to test the pumps works okay, is to put it in to purge/bleeding mode and watch and listen to it go through the various cycles, if it's faulty it won't do the various stages and speeds. I got mine from Autodoc when on special discount down to 228, but it takes awhile.
 
Thanks. Do you mean like this?

Steps to Activate the Purge/Bleeding Mode:
Ensure the car is cool: The engine should be completely cool before starting this procedure to avoid any risk of burns or injury.

Open the hood: Open the hood and locate the water pump and the coolant expansion tank.

Check the coolant level: Ensure the coolant level in the expansion tank is at the correct level. If needed, top it up with the appropriate coolant mixture.

Turn the ignition on: Insert the key and turn the ignition to position 1 (do not start the engine).

Set the heater to maximum: Turn the climate control to the highest temperature and set the fan to the lowest speed.

Press the accelerator pedal: Hold the accelerator pedal down to the floor for about 10 seconds.

Start the purge cycle: The water pump should start the bleeding cycle automatically. During this cycle, you should hear the water pump operating and the coolant circulating. The cycle can last about 12 minutes and goes through various speeds and stages.

Observations During the Purge Cycle:

Listen for the pump: You should hear the water pump running at different speeds throughout the cycle. If the pump is faulty, it may not complete the cycle or may sound irregular.

Check for leaks: Inspect around the water pump and coolant hoses for any signs of leaks.

Watch the coolant level: The coolant level in the expansion tank may fluctuate, but it should not drop significantly. If it does, there might be air trapped in the system or a leak.

Additional Tips:

Battery Charge: Ensure your car battery is adequately charged before starting the purge/bleeding procedure, as it can take around 12 minutes to complete.

Repeat if necessary: If you suspect that there might still be air in the system, you can repeat the procedure.

Safety Precautions:

Do not open the coolant cap: Avoid opening the coolant expansion tank cap while the system is hot or under pressure.

Wear protective gear: Use gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from any accidental splashes of coolant.
 
Thats the one. :thumbsup:
If the coolant is cold you can actually start it with the cap off so you can look inside. If the pump is working you should see a thin jet of water entering at the top of the tank.
 
Yes....... that thin jet of water starts and stops, so you know it's going through the cycles. My old pump ran, drove fine, but never saw that thin jet of water.
 
Just a thought but can you take a look at the pump to see if there is anything to indicate its age?

Only my first E86 with the N52k engine like yours needed a new water pump at exactly 60K miles, so if it has had one already it doesn't need another yet!

But if it is the original at 84K miles it is probably a good preventative measure to fit a new one. Having said that my next E86 with the earlier silver-top engine seemed to still be on the original pump when I sold it on 91K miles. :)

Just make sure you don't buy from BMW - they were charging £500 for them in 2016. :o
 
Mr Tidy said:
Just a thought but can you take a look at the pump to see if there is anything to indicate its age?

Only my first E86 with the N52k engine like yours needed a new water pump at exactly 60K miles, so if it has had one already it doesn't need another yet!

But if it is the original at 84K miles it is probably a good preventative measure to fit a new one. Having said that my next E86 with the earlier silver-top engine seemed to still be on the original pump when I sold it on 91K miles. :)

Just make sure you don't buy from BMW - they were charging £500 for them in 2016. :o
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On the front face of the last one I removed was one of those circular castings with the year (2-digits) in the middle and an arrow pointing to the month. Very difficult to see in situ though.
 
enuff_zed said:
On the front face of the last one I removed was one of those circular castings with the year (2-digits) in the middle and an arrow pointing to the month. Very difficult to see in situ though.
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I didn't realise it was that difficult TBF.

I only found out because Ross at RBM was thinking of buying my 2nd one and he told me it looked like the original pump after he had it on his ramp!
 
Mr Tidy said:
enuff_zed said:
On the front face of the last one I removed was one of those circular castings with the year (2-digits) in the middle and an arrow pointing to the month. Very difficult to see in situ though.
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I didn't realise it was that difficult TBF.

I only found out because Ross at RBM was thinking of buying my 2nd one and he told me it looked like the original pump after he had it on his ramp!
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With the undertray off and a good torch you should be able to see it.
 
enuff_zed said:
With the undertray off and a good torch you should be able to see it.
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I expect he would have had the undertray off, and after 15 years at Sytner he'd have known what to look for!

Sadly he didn't buy it as he was looking for a car he could improve mechanically but he couldn't see much scope for that. If mine needed anything it was some paint on a front wing that had some micro blistering from a previous repair, but bodywork and paint weren't his strengths. Still it sold to a forum member (who got a bit of a bargain TBH) so a good outcome in the end. :)
 
enuff_zed said:
Thats the one. :thumbsup:
If the coolant is cold you can actually start it with the cap off so you can look inside. If the pump is working you should see a thin jet of water entering at the top of the tank.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup:
 
Thank you everyone for your very helpful replies. The engineer has found no faults with the water pump or cooling system. :happyclap: :trampoline:
 
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