Performed the VANOs Repair Procedure Today

EdButler said:
+49: How many miles has your car done, thats the most relevant info we need really... hesistation can indeed come from the VANOS, but also the DISA, bad petrol or even a slightly dodgy throttlebody setting. Id start by resetting your Throttlebody, this fixed my hesitation issues. You do this by (iirc):
1. Turn on ignition (wait 10 sec)
2. Turn off ignition (wait 10 sec)
3. Turn on ignition (wait 10 sec)
4. Start Engine
5. :driving:

Your startup delay shouldnt be happening really either, but sounds like your fuel pump is taking a while to prime fully.

EDIT: As for the VANOS repair, its not too hard. I wouldnt take it to a BMW dealer, but an actual specialist (cheaper and do the job better). BMW will prob turn their noses up at using 3rd party parts also! Where abouts do you live, im sure someone can recommend a garage!
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my cars just ticked over 70k .. just serviced via bmw... full bmw history.
That's all you gotta do? turn on 10 secs? turno off 10 secs ? turn on 10 secs? ... start engine hmm

I've only ever used shell optimax in the 750 miles i've done in the car... but dunno bout previous owners..


Hmm... i'll try this out next time in the motor..thanks dude'?
 
For the record...
My 2003 2.5i (M54B25, with "new design" double VANOS, then) with 85.000 km shows none of the described symptoms : no hickups, idle is perfectly smooth, car runs just absolutely fine even in low RPM (and in Paris, i do a LOT of low RPM... usually driving between 1500 and 2000 RPM).
Or it's juste that i cannot feel the symptoms, maybe ?
 
Shooter, wow, guess your lucky, maybe you will feel the differences after you take her for a long spirited drive - some power lacks could appear maybe when in higher revs... :)

Mon ami, est ce que tu pourais m´envoyer ton foto avatar sur mon mail ([email protected]) STP? Je voudrais aussi achter des jantes CSL en 18 pouces mais pour l´instant tout ce que j´ai trouve sont des photos de 19 pouces qui me semblent trop gros pour le 2.5i. Merci!! :)
 
May sound like a dumb question, but I haven't heard anything about it... and read the how to 4 times... Do you need to drain the oil to do this?

I'll be contacting an Indy tomorrow, I'll let you know what it ends up costing.
 
+49 said:
Hummm Interesting..

My car:
Late 2003
3.0i M54
231bhp model

The main thing that really interests me in the repair is the hesitation sub 3k and …the car does this when at 2000-2500rpm if I let if the thorrtle and gentle apply back I feel hesitation in the engine… or kinda a hiccup in power… I though maybe it’s just the way they are. Don’t get my wrong if I just stick to a max shift point of 3k the car makes very good progress and is plenty fast enough for most applications and I can easily keep it below 2k and keep with normal traffic.But it’s just not completely smooth feeling sometimes with the hesitations…not all the time just 30% of the time maybe. Not what I would expect from the famous bmw straight 6.
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I have the same specs and problem than you, as mentioned above. It stops doing it as soon as I reset the throttle. It does start doing it again after a while, so I simply reset every week and it runs just fine, with plenty of ''powerontap''!
 
My Beisan kit will arrive shortly... :) Sometimes I have the symtoms mentioned before in this thread. Anyways, thenks to Shipkiller for pointing this out and providing me with extra assistance - remeber, while at it, its also worthy to change the bejo washers and gaskets - available at dealer. :)
 
czechT698,

Read the Beisan How-To several times so you understand really what you are doing. While they (the procedures) were developed on the E46 chassis, it is almost the same. Just getting the interference out of the way.
Like I have said before, it is not hard, it is time consuming. It took me about four (4) hours the first time.

The hardest thing I have found (I have done four (4) cars) is that each car is a little different with respect to how much clearance between the VANOs and the front cross brace. On two of the cars I was able to get the VANOs out without too much trouble. On two cars, I needed about an extra 1/8" more clearance and had to figure out how I was going to get it.
 
Shipkiller, Would you be willing to do another? If you've already done 4, I'd definitely trust you with mine! (that and I know you nukes are smart fellas). If you're interested send PM.
 
I don't mind, but that' a long haul down here (Va Beach) for you.

I am currently up in Groton, CT. right now. The only issue I have is my work schedule for the next several months.

I am leaving here at the end of the month, and have to come backup in May for a week. Plus, my wife is having surgery the middle of April.

I am NOT a nuke.... I am better.... :rofl: :rofl:
 
No problem, best wishes to her and a speedy recovery!
I'll be calling this indy tomorrow, see what he says, I'll post it up here if I get it done. As for the trip... to get my car taken care of right, well worth it!
If you free up before July let me know please. July only because I'm then moving to Florida, so the trip would definitely be out of the question.
 
I may be missing this somewhere but is the M engine affecting and in need of this?

has anyone pinned down roughly how long (or for how many miles) on average the stock rings last before they need changing?
 
No, the S54 is not effected.

Yes they have determined roughly how long it take. If you would have read the posts and links more closely, you would have read that it only takes around 20K miles. Less if you take age into account.

This issue was fixed on the 2005 model year engines and later if I remember correctly.
 
That question is actually a good one. I do not know but my gut thought is no. I think it (the vanos issue) only affected single Vanos units for the M50/M52 or S50/S52 engine along with the M52TU, M54, and M56 dual Vanos engines.

Forgive my ignorance, but I don't know off the top of my head what engine designation for the four cylinder is. But give me two minutes I will find out.
 
I know this may be too late of a post but I thought what the heck.

I went to the dealer and they told me I needed a new Vanos Solenoid - They said it would cost $500.00 installed. Would this just be replacing the o rings and gaskets just like everyone else did? If so I am game to do this, I just want to know if I am going down the right line?
 
For those of you who remember Zeta Tre from past years. He did his and he also did quite a few others including mine. As stated here, what a MAJOR difference in performance and I had mine done at 200K miles :D :thumbsup: Too bad I don't have that 2003 2.5i anymore. I miss the Maldivas blue color. :(
I did see the orginal rubber seals and they were very hard and dry, whic caused my Vanos to "flop" around inside. With the new seals, they were nice and tight once again. :driving:
 
Cool Z4 said:
For those of you who remember Zeta Tre from past years. He did his and he also did quite a few others including mine. As stated here, what a MAJOR difference in performance and I had mine done at 200K miles :D :thumbsup: Too bad I don't have that 2003 2.5i anymore. I miss the Maldivas blue color. :(
I did see the orginal rubber seals and they were very hard and dry, whic caused my Vanos to "flop" around inside. With the new seals, they were nice and tight once again. :driving:
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Just wanted to know if you thought this would cure my problem below:

I went to the dealer and they told me I needed a new Vanos Solenoid - They said it would cost $500.00 installed. Would this just be replacing the o rings and gaskets just like everyone else did? If so I am game to do this, I just want to know if I am going down the right line?
 
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