Parasitic draw

T

TUX10

New member
My 2006 3.0si roadster has a parasitic draw, the battery drains overnight. I found that the problem is in fuse 10. I disconnected the immobilizer, gm5 module and interior lights, but couldn’t find the draw. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Watching this post closely. I’m my 15 years of ownership I’ve gone through AT LEAST 5 batteries, and I’m constantly charging them. Granted the car has only 36k miles and is rarely driven, but if I don’t drive it for a week or 10 days even a brand new battery will be completely dead. Car is totally stock as far as I know.
 
I’ve seen many posts where the draw is cited - but I don’t know how to measure it. Can someone provide a link or some guidance on how to test for amp draw?
 
I performed the test taking each fuse out and fuse 10 was draining all the battery. I found online that the ews immobilizer and gm5 module are in fuse 10. I disconnected both, but nothing happened. I also disconnected all interior lights and still draining 0.9 amps. The normal would be 20-50ma.
 
The following video guided me to test for amp draw: https://youtu.be/B1moJh5HpyY?si=b0ktFLdd1t6Tu_Mg
 
After researching on the forum, I thought I’d check a few things before breaking out the multimeter. By putting my phone video on I put it first in the glovebox and then the center console and shut the doors. I found both lights inside the center console remained ON with the console door shut. I’ve disconnected the lights and feel pretty confident that I’ve solved my 15-yr+ parasitic draw issue!
 
MX7 said:
After researching on the forum, I thought I’d check a few things before breaking out the multimeter. By putting my phone video on I put it first in the glovebox and then the center console and shut the doors. I found both lights inside the center console remained ON with the console door shut. I’ve disconnected the lights and feel pretty confident that I’ve solved my 15-yr+ parasitic draw issue!
Click to expand...
Ah that old problem!
Look down at the bottom inside edge of the door when it is open. There should be a plastic protrusion that pushes the microswitch to turn off the lights. If you drop anything down there then try to close the door that lug breaks off, so the lights stay on.
Yoiu can either live with no lights, buy a replacement door, or do as I did, take the door out and screw a self tapping screw into the bottom to operate the microswitcvh.
 
Enuff_zed, have you shared a photo of your 'rebuilt' door with screw? My car needs this done, and seeing the size screw and how you fitted it would be helpfull. Thanks in advance!
 
MX7 said:
After researching on the forum, I thought I’d check a few things before breaking out the multimeter. By putting my phone video on I put it first in the glovebox and then the center console and shut the doors. I found both lights inside the center console remained ON with the console door shut. I’ve disconnected the lights and feel pretty confident that I’ve solved my 15-yr+ parasitic draw issue!
Click to expand...
Result :thumbsup:
 
MX7 said:
After researching on the forum, I thought I’d check a few things before breaking out the multimeter. By putting my phone video on I put it first in the glovebox and then the center console and shut the doors. I found both lights inside the center console remained ON with the console door shut.
Click to expand...

I thought there was only one light in the centre rear compartment?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom