Pagid brake discs - a quick heads up. Update!
- Thread starter Roberltd2
- Start date
Hi Roberltd2,
Would you measure the diameter of the center bore of the Pagid disks ? If the center was over-spec, the disk could be cllinched between the hub and the wheel off-center with the hub. This would be far more noticeable for the drum brake than for the disk caliper. It would be a more common sort of machining error and might be missed in QC . . .
Would you measure the diameter of the center bore of the Pagid disks ? If the center was over-spec, the disk could be cllinched between the hub and the wheel off-center with the hub. This would be far more noticeable for the drum brake than for the disk caliper. It would be a more common sort of machining error and might be missed in QC . . .
Hi Z4Mariner,
The inside bore of both of the Pagid discs (i.e. the surfaces the drum brakes operate against) is 161mm measured with a tape measure and is the same at 90 degrees so they're not egg shaped in any way I don't think.
I have to admit that I feel a bit out of my depth with the discussion now.
All I can say is that the new Brembo discs went straight on without any trouble at all and have been working fine ever since.
The inside bore of both of the Pagid discs (i.e. the surfaces the drum brakes operate against) is 161mm measured with a tape measure and is the same at 90 degrees so they're not egg shaped in any way I don't think.
I have to admit that I feel a bit out of my depth with the discussion now.
All I can say is that the new Brembo discs went straight on without any trouble at all and have been working fine ever since.
When Z4Mariner requested more details regarding the inside bore measurements of the Pagid discs, I remembered that I’d taken a couple of photos of the Brembo discs prior to fitting, with a ruler across them in case I needed to reference them later on.
Both discs had the same measurement.
161mm.
So, why did the handbrake have virtually no effect, and was able to be more or less pulled fully up after fitting the Pagids yet the bore size was the same as the Brembos?
When I went to pick up the car after fitting the Brembo discs, my mechanic said yes, they fitted on beautifully but, unfortunately he had “popped” the handbrake so could I do a bit of research over the weekend as potentially this could mean removing the seats, carpeting, air bag modules and God knows what else to resolve the problem?
Not good news.
Needless to say my first port of call was to Google “BMW Z4 handbrake popping” which led me to the Forum and an explanation about the cable which has a hook on it which engages with the top of a spring but which needs to be disengaged once new shoes have been fitted…...
Anyway, my theory is that my mechanic had “half popped” the cable when he fitted the Pagid discs, but had fully popped it after fitting the Brembos resulting in no handbrake action at all.
After he’d fitted the Brembos and me having done my bit of research, I discovered the cable had hooked over the spring so I took a bit of a gamble with a couple of long screwdrivers and then, after a loud, springy twang sound………normal service was resumed.
So what I’m thinking is that:
After fitting the Pagid discs, calipers, pads and handbrake shoes, my mechanic could not understand why there was so much travel in the handbrake lever before it started to bite (unaware that he’d half popped the cable) and also the uneven nature of the brake when he took the car for a short run – he pulls the hand brake lever up for a short while as the car is moving to bed the shoes in. It’s what he’s always done.
You would definitely not want one of these as a front brake drum on a motorbike.
Don’t know if my theory holds up to any scrutiny but it’s my last throw of the dice on this one.
I have every faith in my mechanic but I think that maybe it was just one of those situations where two plus two seemed to make five. I’ve been there many a time.
Both discs had the same measurement.
161mm.
So, why did the handbrake have virtually no effect, and was able to be more or less pulled fully up after fitting the Pagids yet the bore size was the same as the Brembos?
When I went to pick up the car after fitting the Brembo discs, my mechanic said yes, they fitted on beautifully but, unfortunately he had “popped” the handbrake so could I do a bit of research over the weekend as potentially this could mean removing the seats, carpeting, air bag modules and God knows what else to resolve the problem?
Not good news.
Needless to say my first port of call was to Google “BMW Z4 handbrake popping” which led me to the Forum and an explanation about the cable which has a hook on it which engages with the top of a spring but which needs to be disengaged once new shoes have been fitted…...
Anyway, my theory is that my mechanic had “half popped” the cable when he fitted the Pagid discs, but had fully popped it after fitting the Brembos resulting in no handbrake action at all.
After he’d fitted the Brembos and me having done my bit of research, I discovered the cable had hooked over the spring so I took a bit of a gamble with a couple of long screwdrivers and then, after a loud, springy twang sound………normal service was resumed.
So what I’m thinking is that:
After fitting the Pagid discs, calipers, pads and handbrake shoes, my mechanic could not understand why there was so much travel in the handbrake lever before it started to bite (unaware that he’d half popped the cable) and also the uneven nature of the brake when he took the car for a short run – he pulls the hand brake lever up for a short while as the car is moving to bed the shoes in. It’s what he’s always done.
You would definitely not want one of these as a front brake drum on a motorbike.
Don’t know if my theory holds up to any scrutiny but it’s my last throw of the dice on this one.
I have every faith in my mechanic but I think that maybe it was just one of those situations where two plus two seemed to make five. I’ve been there many a time.
A point - Z4 handbrake shoes don’t need bedding in. They are only used when the car is stationary so the shoes never wear out. The tend to fail because of either incorrect adjustment so they are dragging all the time or more likely because the just come apart because of age (like mine did!).
Attleborough, Norfolk
Are you really sure your mechanic is competent with zeds?
His description of the swork requited to fix it suggests either:
a. He hasn't a clue.
b. He is trying to dissuade you from asking him to do it.
I would suggest you get in touch with [ref]colb[/ref] and maybe pay a visit to the Zedshed Cymru to get some specialist input.
His description of the swork requited to fix it suggests either:
a. He hasn't a clue.
b. He is trying to dissuade you from asking him to do it.
I would suggest you get in touch with [ref]colb[/ref] and maybe pay a visit to the Zedshed Cymru to get some specialist input.
Like!
Bit of a trek to come down to the Zedshed Cymru in Newport for you from Aberystwyth area, the handbrake on Z4's is not the greatest but it can be adjusted to hold the car but correct procedure required to achieve this. First is has the lever got a good ratchet, many are prone to wear and require the teeth reprofiled with a file. Taking the lever out from the top is possible but a few bends have to be made around the opening on the tunnel to get at the bolts holding it in. Sure beats having to take the exhaust and all the gubbins underneath to get it out.
Suggest you take a look at the How To pages on Pelican Parts for detailed method with pictures for adjustment and replacing handbrake here
Adjustment : https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_Z4M/92-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting/92-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting.htm
Replacement : https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_Z4M/93-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Shoes_Replacement/93-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Shoes_Replacement.htm
Setting the adjustment clip is mandatory to take the tension off the cables otherwise you have no chance of achieving decent adjustment. If you are taking the Disc/Drum off it may be required to back the adjusters inside the drum off so you can slip the drum off easier.
Once you have cleaned/replaced shoes with the drum back on its a matter of turning the adjusters until the wheel won't turn, shoes fully applied. You then need to back the adjusters off up to 7 clicks so the shoes are clear of the drum and wheel rotates without binding. Trial end error with the amount of clicks. Once satisfied you have the right clearance reset the spring adjuster clip to put the tension back on the cables, test the handbrake lever and make sure it ratchets ok. In practice when out driving avoid just pulling the lever up so you can hear the ratchet clicking over the teeth, that just wears them out. Always press the button in as you pull it up so it doesn't ratchet over the teeth.
Suggest you take a look at the How To pages on Pelican Parts for detailed method with pictures for adjustment and replacing handbrake here
Adjustment : https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_Z4M/92-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting/92-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting.htm
Replacement : https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_Z4M/93-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Shoes_Replacement/93-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Shoes_Replacement.htm
Setting the adjustment clip is mandatory to take the tension off the cables otherwise you have no chance of achieving decent adjustment. If you are taking the Disc/Drum off it may be required to back the adjusters inside the drum off so you can slip the drum off easier.
Once you have cleaned/replaced shoes with the drum back on its a matter of turning the adjusters until the wheel won't turn, shoes fully applied. You then need to back the adjusters off up to 7 clicks so the shoes are clear of the drum and wheel rotates without binding. Trial end error with the amount of clicks. Once satisfied you have the right clearance reset the spring adjuster clip to put the tension back on the cables, test the handbrake lever and make sure it ratchets ok. In practice when out driving avoid just pulling the lever up so you can hear the ratchet clicking over the teeth, that just wears them out. Always press the button in as you pull it up so it doesn't ratchet over the teeth.