Pad and polish suggestions

beanie

Active member
 Bournemouth/Turin
Hi all, I’m looking for some pad advice/general recommendations for getting a really clean, marr free finish.

A bit of background-
A good few years ago I went to town on the Z and got some very good results. I used a DAS 6 together with some 3M pads (yellow and blue) and iirc, some meguiars fine compound (205??) and something heavier which I don’t remember. Possibly Farecla G3 as it was knocking about

The time came to refresh a few panels but I have really struggled with the final stage and getting out some micro marring. I’ve cleaned the pads and tried several times but I just can’t get the results like I used to and in certain lights there’s an incredibly fine haze. It’s definitely not wax or residue as I’ve cleaned it off and tried again with no luck.

I need to get some more polish and thought it about time for new pads too so any thoughts and advice are appreciated.

The paint is in decent shape and for most people very tidy, but you all know what it’s like! It’s got the odd light scratch but is largely free from swirls apart from the recent bout of micro marring.
 
After the course polish / pad combination, did you go over it again with a finner grade pad and polish?

I have found the Menzerna polish to work well on BMW paint.
 
I have used meguir’s mirror glaze 105 with an orange pad then Meguir’s ultra finishing polish 205 with a white or black pad then sealed with Menzerna power lock sealant with a red pad.

However I have just bought some Poor Boys Black Hole show glaze for dark coloured cars and some Poor Boys EX sealant but it is too damp in Manchester today to polish my car have tried but the drizzle well not stop....
 
pvr said:
After the course polish / pad combination, did you go over it again with a finner grade pad and polish?

I have found the Menzerna polish to work well on BMW paint.

The first round was with the G3-I know some don’t like it but I found it was working well at removing finer marks and light hologramming (left by a detailing company, but that’s another story) My final stage was the 205 with a blue pad. This combo was fine first time round, after a bit of fiddling but I may have got my pads mixed up this time.

PDJ- does black hole have fillers in it?

I was thinking of going for some microfiber pads to at least rule out worn foam pads being the issue.
 
beanie said:
PDJ- does black hole have fillers in it?

The shop did suggest it has dark colour in it and it is almost black in colour straight out of the bottle, there is an other for white cars too.
 
How old are the pads?
Maybe they've dried out/hardened a little since you last used them?
 
enuff_zed said:
How old are the pads?
Maybe they've dried out/hardened a little since you last used them?

Pretty old now-must be 6 years or more. They’ve hardly been used though.

R60BBA said:
Menzerna PO85RD or 3M Ultrafina should sort you out.

I’ll have a look, thanks
 
beanie said:
R60BBA said:
Menzerna PO85RD or 3M Ultrafina should sort you out.

I’ll have a look, thanks

Forgot to add, make sure you hit the paint with something like CarPro Eraser in-between stages.

https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/carpro-eraser-intense-oil-and-polish-cleanser

Good luck
 
For me, on black bmw paint, it’s more the time spent on the refining polish. I reckon you need 3x the time spent on refining the paint compared to cutting.
 
Angelus666 said:
For me, on black bmw paint, it’s more the time spent on the refining polish. I reckon you need 3x the time spent on refining the paint compared to cutting.

I found the opposite! Top coat seems very hard so you need a heavier cut pad than you would expect and a good cutting compound like Sonax Profiline Cutmax, otherwise you will be there for ever. I've often found just that single stage to be more than adequate for a very good gloss level although I do usually finish with a Sonax Profiline EX04-06 and an orange hexlogic pad.

D6F273D2-F171-46F1-9825-BF8A8C0615A3.jpeg
 
ph001 said:
I found the opposite! Top coat seems very hard so you need a heavier cut pad than you would expect and a good cutting compound like Sonax Profiline Cutmax, otherwise you will be there for ever. I've often found just that single stage to be more than adequate for a very good gloss level although I do usually finish with a Sonax Profiline EX04-06 and an orange hexlogic pad.

D6F273D2-F171-46F1-9825-BF8A8C0615A3.jpeg

That’s a lovely finish, real depth and clarity.

Thanks all, I think I’m going to try some microfiber pads and some new polishes/compounds and have another crack at getting it back to my previous level.
 
R60BBA said:
beanie said:
R60BBA said:
Menzerna PO85RD or 3M Ultrafina should sort you out.

I’ll have a look, thanks

Forgot to add, make sure you hit the paint with something like CarPro Eraser in-between stages.

https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/carpro-eraser-intense-oil-and-polish-cleanser

Good luck

17 quid a litre for that stuff??! :o

I'd rather feed me knackers through a mangle and stick to my 50/50 mix of alcohol and denatured water than pay that!
:lol:
 
i personally would hit it with a rotary for initial cut.... then refine out with a D.A...

koch chemie are great compounds, jesscar, scholl s20 , menzerna so many great choices.... Pad wise i really like the rupes range of pads, their yellow is one of my Go-2s .
 
I just bought my Z4 but do detailing for a living. Are you using a DA or rotary machine. To get the best finish I always use a Rupeys DA with yellow pad and Angelwax redemption. It has micro aluminium filings to finish the job and NO silicone. These are a few I’ve done with that finale.

If you’re in Surrey I’d be happy to show you how I do it.
 

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Ps I did a quick 5 hours on mine and I’ll put it up once I do the proper job. I’m half thinking of doing a 1500 flat and polish but it takes about a week to go through all the stages. It would look incredible when done though.
 
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