P0705 & DME

M

MX7

Member
2005 Z4 automatic w/35K miles

I’ve had the transmission light pop up occasionally for years. The car isn’t driven frequently. My mechanic (now retired) said the contacts get a little rusty and I should move the shifter back and forth to clean them up a bit, but eventually I’d need a new switch. Eventually has arrived as the light will clear w/my Creator reader but will reappear almost immediately.

I am also getting the 299A DME CAN EGS error. I’m thinking that the bad selector switch is throwing this code and if I replace the switch it should go away. Thoughts on this?

Battery was dead (as usual) and just replaced.

The mechanic had said to replace the switch the transmission would need to be dropped (?) due to its location. If that’s true I’m not going to attempt to do this on my own. But… if anyone has a different experience and can provide some advice on how to do this - that would be great.

I’m also having a roof issue (likely motor) which I’ll post about separately.

Thanks for any/all suggestions.
 
I’m going to poke around a bit today - drive the car - check for codes, etc. I’ll post later on what I find, if anything.

All comments/ideas/suggestions welcome!
 
This is embarrassing but perhaps a clue. Popped the hood this morning and found a ton of leaves inside. Clearly something was making a nest in there. This is also the SECOND time this has happened. The car does sit outside, but there are two outside cats that live in the driveway which you would think would prevent any rodents etc around the car. Last time I found some chewed wires that my mechanic spliced and sealed with shrink wrap. I’m going to look carefully to see if there’s any evidence of chewed wiring.

Since the shift position fault has been an ongoing problem, I’m still pretty confident I need a switch. The DME/EGS? If this was related to a wiring problem, and idea where I should look? Can someone help me identify where the EGS is?
 
The DME is the big silver module that sits on its end inside the electrics box in the rear left corner of the engine bay.
 
By rear left - driver-side by firewall? The rats nest was on the passenger side near the firewall, but I’ll check anyway. Thx
 
MX7 said:
By rear left - driver-side by firewall? The rats nest was on the passenger side near the firewall, but I’ll check anyway. Thx
Click to expand...
Drivers side for LHD yes
 
I had similar issues with the auto shift position fault. I would check the DME relay 1st only a £20 part
 
Checked all the wiring after cleaning out the leaves - all looks okay. Took the car for a spin - and within 30 seconds of leaving the house all the dash lights went out. Now, I have plenty of experience with low batteries throwing codes (in 15 years of ownership I’m probably in my 5th battery - and another 5 on my MB which also drains batteries) - and this could account for the DME code, but I’ll be surprised if that’s the reason for the shift position switch, since that’s been an intermittent problem forever. I’m going to take the car for another spin tomorrow morning and see what that brings.

Neil - thanks for the suggestion of the relay. I’m going to buy one just to have. If the DME error resurfaces the relay will get swapped immediately. Any chance you have a p/n for it? My car is an ‘05 3.0i soft top. Of course I can always call the dealer. Thanks
 
Apologies - found the p/n’s I need from the RealOEM link. I’m a newbie to the forum and just learning about all the great resources and support that’s here.
 
This got more frustrating today.

Last night I reset the codes and took it for a ride (20 mins - stop and go and highway). Came back and the dash was clear.

Started the car this morning and had a low tire pressure, Brake and triangle/arrow (DSC) lights. Tire pressure was indeed low (fixed) and I then connected the code reader. I got a 5E38 code (rotation) AND also had the 299 DME error. Both codes were cleared. Ignition switch turned off and key removed, then started and drove the car for about 20 mins. Pulled in the driveway and the dash was clear.

I’m working on the roof. About 30 mins later I start the car (it’s in park) and I again have the low P/DSC/brake lights on the dash. ???

There are some other trivial errors codes that won’t reset (window circuit, washer fluid) that I’m ignoring. Last year I had the 5E38 code and I replaced the yaw sensor under the pass seat and drove it maybe 500 miles without the code re-appearing.

Reminder - battery is now brand new.

Appreciate comments/advice.
 
Great question. I wasn’t thinking about the alternator since the car is starting fine, but you are correct that I have no idea what the alternator is putting out and whether the battery will be dead in the near future.

I have a multimeter. Can someone give me some guidance on what I should set the meter to (DC amperage?), where I should check, and how many amps I’m looking for?

Thanks
 
Once again cleared the 5E38 code and drive the car with no lights on the dash. Once I turned the ignition off and then restarted the car - the lights and 5E38 code reappeared.

The suggestion above to check the alternator output makes sense to me if the car is throwing random codes. Everything seems to have settled down except the 5E38.

I replaced the yaw sensor within the last year. I don’t remember exactly - I know it came to the States from over the pond - it may have been a used item I bought on eBay.

Question - is it possible that it’s anything else besides the yaw sensor?
 
One other question - I’ve been reading posts and other forums…. When I replaced the yaw sensor last year - did it need to be calibrated or zeroed? I didn’t do anything but bolt it in place and connect the multi plug. I have a Creator310+ code reader which (as far as I know) doesn’t have the ability to zero the sensor.

Does anyone know if this is required?
 
MX7 said:
One other question - I’ve been reading posts and other forums…. When I replaced the yaw sensor last year - did it need to be calibrated or zeroed? I didn’t do anything but bolt it in place and connect the multi plug. I have a Creator310+ code reader which (as far as I know) doesn’t have the ability to zero the sensor.

Does anyone know if this is required?
Click to expand...
No, just bolt it in and away you go.
 
Okay, this is why this car is my LEAST favorite of the 7 cars I own…

This morning I start the car. While still in park, I get the gear light indicating (from experience) that I have the shifter position switch error again. I immediately turn the car off - move the shifter back and forth a dozen times - and restart. The gear light is gone - but I immediately get the trifecta of the low tire P, Brake and triangle/arrow (DSC) light. This is all with the car still in park. After cursing a bit I take the car for a spin.

I stop and have lunch.

Get back in the car, start it, and the 3 lights are again illuminated. I drive home.

I turn the car off - and then restart it - no lights on the dash. I take it for another spin (short - 10 minutes) with no lights. ??? WT?

Last year when I replaced the yaw sensor the carpet was wet. Checked it now - it’s good and dry.

Is the yaw sensor INTERMITTENTLY failing? What else could cause this?

A minor (likely not contributing) note - a few years back I replaced the run flats with regular tires to improve the ride (which it did). The tires are also a little over-inflated (35-36 lbs all around).

I’d like some advice on how to check that the alternator is working properly - and any other suggestions anyone might have. The reason the car is 18 years old and only has 36,000 miles is because my wife “doesn’t trust it” as it’s always throwing dash lights that freak her out!

Trying to sort this once and for all, but my patience is running thin!
 
How does this make sense?

Started the car this morning. I have the shift selector (TCM) error AND NOW the check engine light. Turned the car off and back on twice - no change, but I also have a bulb warning. As I back out of the driveway the bulb warning goes out.

I literally go around the block and notice that there is no “D” indicator on the dash. The car also seems stuck in 2nd gear. Back in the driveway I leave the car running, pop in my reader and clear all the codes.

I then proceed to drive the car for about 90 minutes - it runs fine. No dash lights. “D” indicator on the dash while in drive. Transmission shifts normal.

The car is now running in the driveway. I’m going to take it for another spin to ensure all the monitors are set then to my mechanic to get an inspection sticker so I can continue to troubleshoot and drive the car legally.

Does anyone have any idea what’s going on?
 
Drove the car about 120 miles today - stop and go, highway. Didn’t turn the engine off for 5-1/2 hrs. No codes or dash lights appeared.

Tried to get the car inspected (after clearing the codes first thing this morning). After all that driving it won’t pass since two monitors are showing incomplete (EVAP and Sec Air System?). I’ll create another post for these.

I checked voltage at the battery with the car running. At idle, and at 2500-3000 rpm I’m getting 14.1-14.2v. I was expecting/looking for 14.7v. Does this suggest an alternator issue? Voltage regulator? Other ideas?
 
I see the evap needs a cold start. Wonderful. I’ll start jr the next 2 days and drive it. Based on recent performance I’m likely to get an error code (or 3) while doing that, and have to start all over!
 
Last post of this frustrating day: after running the car all day, turned it off and let it sit in the driveway for an hour. Upon restart - as expected - I immediately get the DSC/Brake/Low Tire Pressure dash lights. I drive the caress than 1/2 mile, turn it off and run into the store for 5 minutes. On return no lights at startup. Drive another 1/2 mile - off for 5 minutes - restart. Still no lights. 1.2 mile back home and I check for codes with my scanner - no codes.

I’m sure when I start it tomorrow morning I’ll have the 3 lights again!
 
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