Overheating

J

jonas123

Member
Hi all,

Had my first problem with my Zed today. The overheating light pinged on and I noticed the temp was running high at about 100/110 degrees C. Care went into limp mode but managed to make it home.

The fan appears to be running ok, and the coolant level is topped up, so any ideas? I've started the car with the coolant cap off and get a steady stream coming through the 'peep' hole which would indicate the pump is working?

What is the normal running temperature of these cars? 2014 e89 20i

Thanks!
 
How many miles has your car done..that oil temp in itself is not an issue...on the earlier E85 it’s normally the water pump, which is electrically driven...
 
I'm at just over 50k miles.

When it hits 100 degrees C, it normally pings the amber thermometer light, but it hit 110 on the way back home tonight and pinged the red light, and the car went into extreme limp mode. Seems odd as the fan appears to be working, coolant is full and from what I can tell, the pump is working :cry:
 
jonas123 said:
I'm at just over 50k miles.

When it hits 100 degrees C, it normally pings the amber thermometer light, but it hit 110 on the way back home tonight and pinged the red light, and the car went into extreme limp mode. Seems odd as the fan appears to be working, coolant is full and from what I can tell, the pump is working :cry:
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The temp gauge measures the oil temp not the water temp....the water pump is controlled by the engine ECU ...

The ECU controls the water temp based on various factors...unlikely to be an ECU fault and if there are no leaks and it’s cold it only leaves the water pump?

Looks like you’ll need a diagnostic unit to read the fault codes..
 
Thanks - what's a normal operating temp for these engines? My is stable now around 105 degrees C which seems a little high...
 
jonas123 said:
Thanks - what's a normal operating temp for these engines? My is stable now around 105 degrees C which seems a little high...
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My 20i sits around 90c apart from very hot days, I’d get it scanned in case there’s an underlying issue.
Rob
 
If you have enough coolant in, it can only really be one of 4 possibilities:

Water pump
Thermostat
Blocked / sludged radiator
Airlock

The N52 engine which is in the E89 30i models has an electric water pump which is a well known weak point, but I’m not sure what the 4-pot 20i has? Perhaps smartbear can confirm.

The first thing to do is whack your internal heaters on max heat and full fan (feel free to open your windows). If the heaters are not very effective it would point to a coolant circulation problem, most likely pump.
 
jonas123 said:
Thanks - what's a normal operating temp for these engines? My is stable now around 105 degrees C which seems a little high...
Click to expand...

The N20 engine uses variable temperature cooling depending on the 'mode' it is in..

109c economy mode
106c normal mode
95c high speed mode
80c high speed and max power mode

the temp is water temp at the cylinder head

So 105c oil temp after a period of time is not itself excessive

My car runs in the range 95 to 110c oil gauge temp depending on various issues once fully warm, around 15 miles..

The map thermostat is programmed to start opening at 97c and fully open by 109c

The electric coolant pump is a 400w device

If coolant goes over 117c then a yellow warning light comes on and reduced power

Over 122c then red light plus 90% power reduction
 
ph001 said:
If you have enough coolant in, it can only really be one of 4 possibilities:

Water pump
Thermostat
Blocked / sludged radiator
Airlock

The N52 engine which is in the E89 30i models has an electric water pump which is a well known weak point, but I’m not sure what the 4-pot 20i has? Perhaps smartbear can confirm.

The first thing to do is whack your internal heaters on max heat and full fan (feel free to open your windows). If the heaters are not very effective it would point to a coolant circulation problem, most likely pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks, looks like it’s a pump issue. Was blasting out hot air initially, but the red light came on again so I checked the heater again and it was pumping out cool air
 
Nope, specialist. Seemed expensive but I didn’t want to drive the car away as it was getting bad. That price included the £81 for the diagnostic check, and another £80ish for wheel alignment so closer to £800 for the coolant, new pump and thermostat plus labour
 
jonas123 said:
Nope, specialist. Seemed expensive but I didn’t want to drive the car away as it was getting bad. That price included the £81 for the diagnostic check, and another £80ish for wheel alignment so closer to £800 for the coolant, new pump and thermostat plus labour
Click to expand...

Sounds like he’s on the pricey side :?
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Rob
 
That's what I was thinking, I would have thought it would be more like 500 to 600 GBP tops! But hey ho at least you have the car fixed and sorted.
 
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