Over heated and leak

E

eyup

Member
 East Riding of Yorkshire
Evening all, looks like I am on a bad run all of a sudden with brakes now something new. On way home my engine temp spiked to red then dropped back down, spiked a couple more times then settled on red with light on.I have got the car home to discover liquid to the front passenger side. Not yet identified whether water or oil but looks thin. I cannot tell where it is coming from but will look when engine has cooled.

Tried to ring my trusty independent garage but they close early on a Friday.

Any ideas?

Thanks guys
 

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Thanks 85genius. Having a trawl now to see about expansion tank. Strange for it suddenly to go while Sat in car park all day. May be a while before cools properly so I can have a good look
 
Thinking about it, should I get a low coolant warning if the expansion tank gone?
 
If your expansion tank has fractured circulating water will run out and then less water will get hotter until it reaches the point where warning light comes on.
 
OK. Understood. Thanks for the replies guys. Now I know what I am looking for will decide whether to have a go at replacing myself. Just no z this weekend :(
 
It could be your electric water pump :headbang:

Mine was previously overflowing from the coolant expansion tank, and when the pump stops pumping, the water boils and the water will only go one way. I hope it's only your expansion tank ......
 
Update. And not a good one. Took the car in this morning and diagnosed water pump fail and looking also like leak to the tank. They want £921 to fix to include tank, pump and thermostat. Trying to decide whether this is ok price but gut instinct sound high :headbang:
 
Try this thread for info about where to source a water pump...

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=72036&start=270

Two thirds down the page. At 62,000 miles, I'm starting to get paranoid that mine will fail sooner rather than later
 
z4pilot said:
Try this thread for info about where to source a water pump...

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=72036&start=270

Two thirds down the page. At 62,000 miles, I'm starting to get paranoid that mine will fail sooner rather than later
Click to expand...

What about me on double that :cry:
 
Pierburg pumps can be had for under £240...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIERBURG-WATER-PUMP-BMW-3-SERIES-E90-E91-E92-E93-325-330-X5-E70-3-0-XDRIVE-30-/371577004010?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3AZ4&hash=item5683b71fea:g:kxQAAOSwr7ZW6nLq

Expansion tanks are £30 to £40 (Febi Bilstein) so the parts come in at under £300. It's half a shift tops for an experienced tech so yes that price is a piss take. Even if you factor in a genuine BMW stat and take the parts up to £400 the labour should come in under £200 or at least thereabouts for 3hrs work. The whole job should come in between £500 and £600.

If you do decide to do the stat at the same time please use only a genuine BMW item as the N52 uses several 'maps' and aftermarket stats do not get on with the ECU.

You could source the parts yourself and pay labour only if your Indy can't be arsed to shop around for you.
 
mr wilks said:
z4pilot said:
Try this thread for info about where to source a water pump...

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=72036&start=270

Two thirds down the page. At 62,000 miles, I'm starting to get paranoid that mine will fail sooner rather than later
Click to expand...

What about me on double that :cry:
Click to expand...

Sounds like its lasted longer than average but can you be sure it's not been changed in the past?
Rob
 
These electric pumps have a onboard pcb electronics to stop/start and vary the pump speed based on ECU control and I think it's the electronics that fail not the motor or mechanicals. So failure is more likely to be age related rather than mileage related (wife's X3 pump failed at only 32k miles but was nearly 9 years old) when I took it off it turned freely and did not have obvious wear or play anywhere nor had it been noisy or developed any leaks.

They should have been designed to fail on max flow upon loss of ECU comms as overcooling would have been a lot safer than immediate limp mode.
 
I believe elec pump failure rate is on duty time/cycles rather than total time or mileage, though some have obviously failed very early. Read it somewhere with some data that proved the point.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
I believe elec pump failure rate is on duty time/cycles rather than total time or mileage, though some have obviously failed very early. Read it somewhere with some data that proved the point.
Click to expand...

Mine went at ten years old, still worked but was pulsing the main cooling fan on cold start ups (implausible pump speed was logged I think)
I still have it if an electronics wizard can refurb the electronics board :?
Rob
 
Another one here!

The pump on my Ruby Black one died at 9 years and 60K miles. Had it replaced by my local independent - OEM pump was £500 and thermostat another £100 + fitting - :cry:

I did get a price of £340 for the pump on-line from ECP, but didn't feel brave enough to DIY - although someone did suggest it was a relatively simple job.

Hope you can get it sorted soon! :thumbsup:
 
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