Output shafts replacement

[Deutsche_Blonde]

I recently was looking to refresh my rear suspension. Unfortunately the garage (who have a excellent reputation) explained that they were unable to drop the rear suspension as the output shafts were completely fused to the hubs. They noted that the only way to sort this was to cut through the output shafts to drop the suspension (and then replace them).
New OEM outputs shafts are expensive (circa £1k) so am looking at used or aftermarket parts. NAPA seem to have a recent reputation but I'm unable to source within the UK. Can anyone offer any help or advice?

 

[Scooba_Steve]

I recently was looking to refresh my rear suspension.

What exactly were you asking to be refreshed?

While it would have taken a bit more effort, I am trying to think if anything would stop dropping the whole axle carrier.

 

[Deutsche_Blonde]

I recently was looking to refresh my rear suspension.

What exactly were you asking to be refreshed?

While it would have taken a bit more effort, I am trying to think if anything would stop dropping the whole axle carrier.

Hi Steve,
It was the RTABs and upper and lower bushes on the arm.
If they are in such a bad state though, I wonder if its worth replacing anyhow?
Cheers.

 

[PDJ]

I was going to suggest Simon Thorpe Motors in Grimsby as he has made a jig up for getting very tight drive shafts out of the hub splines.

He would remove and clean grease and refit so you could return home and continue with a local garage unless you wanted Simon to do the other work then it is an overnight stay in the Grimsby area.



But it is 250 miles each way from Fareham

 

[Scooba_Steve]

Hi Steve,
It was the RTABs and upper and lower bushes on the arm.
If they are in such a bad state though, I wonder if its worth replacing anyhow?
Cheers.

I am pretty sure it's possible to do those without splitting the shafts. I only had them off to replace the camber arm (to get to the inner bolt).

You might as well upgrade the lower bushing with the same upper ball joint.

 

[Deutsche_Blonde]

I was going to suggest Simon Thorpe Motors in Grimsby as he has made a jig up for getting very tight drive shafts out of the hub splines.

He would remove and clean grease and refit so you could return home and continue with a local garage unless you wanted Simon to do the other work then it is an overnight stay in the Grimsby area.



But it is 250 miles each way from Fareham

Ah, that would have been great! But yeah, bit of a trek. Thanks for the info though

Hi Steve,
It was the RTABs and upper and lower bushes on the arm.
If they are in such a bad state though, I wonder if its worth replacing anyhow?
Cheers.

I am pretty sure it's possible to do those without splitting the shafts. I only had them off to replace the camber arm (to get to the inner bolt).

You might as well upgrade the lower bushing with the same upper ball joint.

Thanks. Yeah, I have gone for the upgraded lower bush.
I have also sourced some secondhand shafts that look in a decent condition... so think I will go ahead and replace.

 

[SDJ]

Hi, this is a bit confusing - is the shaft is stuck in the trailing arm end, or to the diff flange? The diff flanges easily pull out the diff so I don't see why or how cutting the shaft can help.
It's interesting that the lower joint can be replaced with another top ball joint. I'm waiting for some new top ones to arrive so will offer them up.
Cheers

 

[Roberltd2]

Did read somewhere that OEM drive shafts are tubular and after market items are solid and inferior quality.

 

[Deutsche_Blonde]

Hi, this is a bit confusing - is the shaft is stuck in the trailing arm end, or to the diff flange? The diff flanges easily pull out the diff so I don't see why or how cutting the shaft can help.
It's interesting that the lower joint can be replaced with another top ball joint. I'm waiting for some new top ones to arrive so will offer them up.
Cheers

Hi mate, yes, it's the hub end rather than diff end. I'm not mechanical so unable to explain any further than that really. I wonder if its worth taking it elsewhere for another opinion.

 

[SDJ]

I would. If they cut the shaft then they are definitely going to have to get it out the hub. Half of it anyway!

 

[Mr Tidy]

I wonder if its worth taking it elsewhere for another opinion.

I don't know if it helps much as he is the other end of Hampshire, but you could always contact Ross at RBM Hampshire in Hook who is "bowser134" on here. He does have a customer car.

Link here:- https://www.rbmhampshire.co.uk/

 

[Deutsche_Blonde]

I would. If they cut the shaft then they are definitely going to have to get it out the hub. Half of it anyway!

I think they're confident they can get it out the hub if they have more room to play with. Though I guess they could disconnect the diff end and that might give em more freedom to try dislodge from the fused hub.
I am slightly concerned about the corrosion and the fact its corroded/fused to the hub. I'm starting to amass parts for a rear suspension refresh - removal of any surface rust, anti-rust treatment, all new bushes etc. So would like this aspect sorted too at the same time.

I wonder if its worth taking it elsewhere for another opinion.

I don't know if it helps much as he is the other end of Hampshire, but you could always contact Ross at RBM Hampshire in Hook who is "bowser134" on here. He does have a customer car.

Link here:- https://www.rbmhampshire.co.uk/

Thanks for that. I'll send him a msg.

 

[PDJ]

If you are collecting parts to refurb the hub and trailing arm.

You could get the whole assembly from a breakers and give the assembly and the new bushes to your mechanic and have him refurb two hub assemblies then it is just an unbolt and bolt on the new ones.

Mine is an M so the M tax makes the above idea eye wateringly expensive so I had to get mine apart, I had removed them from my car and after I had used every tool and idea I had to get them apart, I gave in and gave them to Simon Thorpe 3 mechanics tried and failed to get them apart so Simon did them himself, when I got them back they would not go back together (I only asked for them to be stripped) I set about needle filling the male and female splines to achieve a push fit and fitted them with silver gloop anti seize paste ( It's expensive but good) The next time I will have to remove a drive shaft is when the reluctor ring rusts too much an wipes out the wheel speed sensor.

 

[PDJ]

The first picture is of my drive shafts from my M

The second is from my M it is the drive hub with the female spline in it.

Third is the drive shaft from my 120d

 

[Liam22]

I'll be attempting this soon, as the boot on the nearside driveshaft (outboard end) has split.

I have a spare driveshaft.

Will disconnect the inboard end from the diff flange and then start by taking a club hammer to the outboard end. If that doesn't work I'll remove the trailing arm from the car and try to get it in my hydraulic press.

 

[SDJ]

I'll be attempting this soon, as the boot on the nearside driveshaft (outboard end) has split.

I have a spare driveshaft.

Will disconnect the inboard end from the diff flange and then start by taking a club hammer to the outboard end. If that doesn't work I'll remove the trailing arm from the car and try to get it in my hydraulic press.

I've just replaced my outer boot and went about it wrong, so be careful. The Internet told me the cv joint has a snap ring so can be hammered off, which I did (eventually), but it turns out the cv joint is held on with an external circlip from the outside wheel end. Therefore to get it back together I had to open up the cv outer casing and hammer / dress that back down.
I've got photos as that might sound confusing.
Anyway, I'm not sure how you are supposed to change the outer boot. Perhaps take the inner cv joint and boot off and slide it along. Or just fit a split and glue boot.

 

[Spriteracer]

I took both of my driveshafts out last year as part of the rear end rebuild. One tapped out of the hub splines quite easily. The other would not move however big the hammer and I was starting to damage the end of it. Tried making a bigger puller / pusher tool but in the end got one of these. Even then it was a struggle and it made a nasty grating / creaking noise as it eventually moved. Well greased when it went back in...

 

[Liam22]

in the end got one of these

Thanks for the tip