Oil Change

ZetaTre said:
Thanks Shipkiller for your explanation, it's very accurate. I didn't know Mobil 1 switched back to Group III. However the information available on this subject are all unofficial as of course ExxonMobil keeps them private.
My original comment wanted to be a lot more practical. For example, there is no evidence that a Group V is better than a Group IV which is better than a Group III. Also evidences about synthetic being better than mineral are not so clear. There was a road test some time ago done by Consumer Report that showed no strong evidences that 1) synthetic is better than mineral 2) expensive synthetic (i.e. Group IV or V) are better 3) extend oil change increase engine wear. Test was done on NYC cabs... There sure is a lot of “literature” and anecdotal story that say otherwise, but I'm just very skeptical of everything that shows no numbers or too many...
This said ,I personally stick to oil that are ACEA A3 and BMW LL-01 (so, fo me, it's either BMW High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40): this is what BMW engineers recommend so I don't honestly see why I should go with something else often advertised as "better" by marketing folks with little to no technical knowledge.
If you put in your car a oil that satisfy both ACEA A3 and BMW LL-01 standards and you get oil related problem the warranty will cover it regardless if it's BMW or Mobil 1. If the oil does not satisfy these requirements, they can give you trouble and say it's your fault cuz you didn't use the right oil. I don't know much about RoyalPurple or other “fancy oils”, so I can't really add to it: a thing I heard and I would be careful about is that “racing oils ” tend to be thinner than regular oil. They sacrifice engine protection for increase HP (most racing engines don’t need to last that long and they are tear down after each race and often rebuilt).
Btw, all of this does not apply to the ///M cars: they require Castrol TWS 10W-60. I believe BMW imports it from Germany and if they go through all that, I'm sure there is reason.


Actually, it was not my part of my master plan to recommend any oils. Just throw some info out there.

I really think that if you use a good quality oil and change it at regularly accepted intervals, then you will be alright, provided that you do not run the engine really hard...

I have been an Amzoil user for 15 years and love the stuff... and still use it in my truck.. Before that, I was a Valoline user.
 
ROYAL PURPLE OIL CAN BE BOUGHT LOCALLY AT O'REILLYS AUTO PARTS ,I BOUGHT IT THERE BEFORE, IT'S NOT CHEAP, SOMEWHERES AROUND $6.70 A QUART, BUT YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR , I USED IT BEFORE IN MY CARBURETED 1970 MUSTANG V8 ,AS AN ADDED BONUS YOU MIGHT EEK OUT AN EXTRA 2-3 HP JUST BY USING THIS OIL, YEP, IT'S GOOS STUFF, THEY ALSO CARRY TRANSMISSION FLUID BTU I HAVEN'T TRIED THAT YET SO I CAN'T COMMENT.





:driving:
 
azroadie said:
Here's another question on this...if our car is still under warranty and we're choosing to do oil changes inbetween the 15k oil changes, is it best to stick to the BMW oil or something similar? Or is only oil change with royal purple ok, then the next one bmw, then back?
When I quizzed them at N. Scottsdale BMW, they said as long as the oil meets the BMW spec. No problem with warranty. I use Valvoline SynPower 5-30. :thumbsup:
 
You might also like this oil. This is the brand they use where I take my Z for service.

http://www.elfoils.us/lub/lubusa.nsf/VS_SWI/C125717D00402081C1256E7B005182C5?opendocument
 
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