Kent
How many miles between an oil change do you recommend please for a 2010 2.5?
As opposed to what BMW say
Many thanks
Ray
As opposed to what BMW say
Many thanks
Ray
Oil change, kindly advise
- Thread starter rayglondon
- Start date
Deepseaskateboard
Senior member
I think the general rule is as few miles as possible where it remains practical or affordable to keep doing so.
Theoretically, an oil change after each drive is mechanically brilliant. No one does it due to expense and practicality.
Some people change every 5k miles.
Some people do six months, which is pretty hardcore in my opinion.
It’s not just miles though, it’s time periods too. Oil breaks down and becomes less effective over time, regardless of miles.
Honestly, yearly oil changes are probably the right mix of enthusiast and practicality.
If you are doing yourself you can even add liquimoli engine flush and ceratec (something I’m itching to do!)
My car is lucky if it does 2000 miles per year so I keep to BMW 2yr intervals. (I would like to do yearly, but I don’t have the set up yet).
Theoretically, an oil change after each drive is mechanically brilliant. No one does it due to expense and practicality.
Some people change every 5k miles.
Some people do six months, which is pretty hardcore in my opinion.
It’s not just miles though, it’s time periods too. Oil breaks down and becomes less effective over time, regardless of miles.
Honestly, yearly oil changes are probably the right mix of enthusiast and practicality.
If you are doing yourself you can even add liquimoli engine flush and ceratec (something I’m itching to do!)
My car is lucky if it does 2000 miles per year so I keep to BMW 2yr intervals. (I would like to do yearly, but I don’t have the set up yet).
I do every 5k miles, which is about annually.
Just done a change, always use Mobil 1. Engine runs sweet at 110k miles.
Funny how when i drain oil, even though measure says full, barely 4.5 litres comes out. Full is 6 litres.
I know some in filter and still in engine, but 1.5 litres?
But oil change guarantees i have at least 6 in.
Usually needs a top up at 4k, 1k before change.
Just done a change, always use Mobil 1. Engine runs sweet at 110k miles.
Funny how when i drain oil, even though measure says full, barely 4.5 litres comes out. Full is 6 litres.
I know some in filter and still in engine, but 1.5 litres?
But oil change guarantees i have at least 6 in.
Usually needs a top up at 4k, 1k before change.
As often as practicably possible especially with an M car
As the oil filter is on the top change this more often
So my car a Z4MR has new oil the shell racing ultra every 4 to 6 thousand miles and a filter then and at half the mileage between
If you think that is expensive please cost a rebuild, North of £7k last time I asked
For me regular oil changes are like life insurance not a guarantee but peace of mind
If the car is driven hard on track or the road for any time like a full track day it would start the day on new oil and filter and changed as soon after as possible
Remember to change the other fluids regular as well
Brake fluid
power steering fluid (M cars)
gearbox oil
Diff oil (elbow full of oil too)
Water/coolant
and don't forget the washer bottle water for your MOT
As the oil filter is on the top change this more often
So my car a Z4MR has new oil the shell racing ultra every 4 to 6 thousand miles and a filter then and at half the mileage between
If you think that is expensive please cost a rebuild, North of £7k last time I asked
For me regular oil changes are like life insurance not a guarantee but peace of mind
If the car is driven hard on track or the road for any time like a full track day it would start the day on new oil and filter and changed as soon after as possible
Remember to change the other fluids regular as well
Brake fluid
power steering fluid (M cars)
gearbox oil
Diff oil (elbow full of oil too)
Water/coolant
and don't forget the washer bottle water for your MOT
Yearly or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first.
I would say every year, or 5k miles, whichever comes first and use good quality oil (Opie oils are usually an excellent source).
And as others have said, if you don't have details on when they were last changed, gearbox, diff, PAS and brake fluid should also be done. Oh and coolant would be wise also.
May sound like a lot, but as others have said, these fluids are vital to ensure the engine remains in good condition, so ensure they are clean and fresh.
And as others have said, if you don't have details on when they were last changed, gearbox, diff, PAS and brake fluid should also be done. Oh and coolant would be wise also.
May sound like a lot, but as others have said, these fluids are vital to ensure the engine remains in good condition, so ensure they are clean and fresh.
Scottish Borders
Many thanks
That's very helpful
Cheers
Thank you
I've always gone with the BMW spec. My 320d got to 276k and was still on the original turbo with 18k changes. My E53 3.0d is on 205k on 15k intervals which works out the thick end of 2 years. And these are Diesels which nominally dump soot into the oil (tho a lot less than people think).
On petrol engines the move to fuel injection from carbs cured problems of bore wash and knackered piston rings at 100k. When was the last time you saw a car puffing blue smoke? Engines suddenly started out living the cars in the early 90s.
On the M54, N52, N40-odd generation engines we're talking about here, oil related engine failures are almost unheard of. Oil and manufacturing tolerances are infinitely better than 35 years ago (when 10k intervals worked perfectly well) so changing the oil every 5k is daft.
These engines will do 200+k easily and any life extension endless fresh oil might give means that the engine will do 300k instead. The truth is that few people will get anywhere near that and, at 7k a year, the rest of the car will be shagged out anyway. And that's assuming, as is far more likely, that the car hasn't been long sold on and forgotten.
On top of that fresh oil won't stop a head gasket going, a clutch failing or rust eating everything. It won't prevent the suspension collapsing, the electrics having a fit, the roof breaking or a thousand other things so why worry about it?
It's very telling that it's only with the eco switch to hyper thin oils, 0w10 and the like, that there suddenly are rashes of engine failures again. And they're a damn sight newer than we're talking.
On petrol engines the move to fuel injection from carbs cured problems of bore wash and knackered piston rings at 100k. When was the last time you saw a car puffing blue smoke? Engines suddenly started out living the cars in the early 90s.
On the M54, N52, N40-odd generation engines we're talking about here, oil related engine failures are almost unheard of. Oil and manufacturing tolerances are infinitely better than 35 years ago (when 10k intervals worked perfectly well) so changing the oil every 5k is daft.
These engines will do 200+k easily and any life extension endless fresh oil might give means that the engine will do 300k instead. The truth is that few people will get anywhere near that and, at 7k a year, the rest of the car will be shagged out anyway. And that's assuming, as is far more likely, that the car hasn't been long sold on and forgotten.
On top of that fresh oil won't stop a head gasket going, a clutch failing or rust eating everything. It won't prevent the suspension collapsing, the electrics having a fit, the roof breaking or a thousand other things so why worry about it?
It's very telling that it's only with the eco switch to hyper thin oils, 0w10 and the like, that there suddenly are rashes of engine failures again. And they're a damn sight newer than we're talking.
SV8Predator
Member
I always have my oil changed once a year as part of my pre - MoT check routine.
That is to say at just over 10,000 miles every year.
But, I do have to add a litre of oil roughly every 1,500 miles of driving so I think that's not a bad deal for the engine.
The engine in question is a 2007 N52B25 (2.5Si) and I use Millers XF Premium Engine Oil C3 5w40.
That is to say at just over 10,000 miles every year.
But, I do have to add a litre of oil roughly every 1,500 miles of driving so I think that's not a bad deal for the engine.
The engine in question is a 2007 N52B25 (2.5Si) and I use Millers XF Premium Engine Oil C3 5w40.
