Oil Change Due

[enuff_zed]

Good day all,

Please bear with me as this may seem a bit of a newby question.

My 64-plate 20i is a bit of a garage queen, although it has been pressed into service a few times throughout winters and bad weather. However, it still only has about 24k on the clock.
It also had a 5 year maintenance package on when I bought it, which only ran out in November. At that point it had an MOT and a brake fluid change. Since then it has only been out a couple of times.
Yesterday I noted that it is highlighting an oil change needed at 5/20. Checking back, it has done about 4k since the last one, so this must be a calendar based notification. This leads me to a few questions for you knowledgeable types.

1. How simple is an oil change on this car? I can get it up on axle stands, but only the front end. Will this allow full draining? How easy is access to the drain plug.
2. If I leave it for now, I will obviously get the warning cropping up every time I get in it. Can I reset the reminder? How? If I do, will that upset all the forecasting? I assume it will reset the mileage frequency too?

I do really want to farm out something like an oil change if it is simple for me to do in my garage, but it is all the resetting of reminders that appears to be the issue, at least to my 1980s-style car mechanic mind.

 

[Smartbear]

Hi Martin, I’ve not touched my car yet as like yours it had a maintenance package. When that expired i had Bmw change the oil but am considering doing it myself next time.
I think the drain bolt’s plastic & needs replacing each time it’s used.
Carly can reset service lights, I’m guessing it’s also possible from the obc controls? It’s usually a simple sequence of 20 buttons or so
Rob

 

[R.E92]

Oil change is easy, jacking the front up is fine, you won't get any more out doing it with a level car. Drain plug has a small flap that lets you access it without removing the undertrays. Just drain oil, change filter, replace drain plug then refill. It's handy to have something collect the oil that has a measurement on it so you know how much oil to put back in after.

If you reset the reminder it will give you another 2years or 19k miles. The mileage interval on your engine may be different. It's easy to reset, no tools needed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wk_GKrFp-9I

 

[enuff_zed]

Oil change is easy, jacking the front up is fine, you won't get any more out doing it with a level car. Drain plug has a small flap that lets you access it without removing the undertrays. Just drain oil, change filter, replace drain plug then refill. It's handy to have something collect the oil that has a measurement on it so you know how much oil to put back in after.

If you reset the reminder it will give you another 2years or 19k miles. The mileage interval on your engine may be different. It's easy to reset, no tools needed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wk_GKrFp-9I

Brilliant! Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks very much.
Given that this car is a keeper, I think my best bet would be to reset, do my own oil changes, make sure it is all recorded in a book somewhere and keep all receipts just in case I do have to sell it.

 

[step_change]

I am going to do this too.
Anyone recommend please something to capture and measure the oil?
Any special tools needed for the oil filter?
And finally, what oil specification? 5W-40 on the Opie oils tool?

Many thanks.

 

[R.E92]

I am going to do this too.
Anyone recommend please something to capture and measure the oil?
Any special tools needed for the oil filter?
And finally, what oil specification? 5W-40 on the Opie oils tool?

Many thanks.

I just use an old drum for my waste oil and keep it to one side for bonfire fuel so don't have any container recommendations. For someone doing it the first time it's useful to measure to oil coming out to get an idea of how much needs to go back in as there's no dipstick and the digital oil measurement requires the engine to actually be running. I've done a few changes now and found that 6.4l takes it back to max after draining.

Since you have an N54 like me then you'll need large oil filter socket: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEDC-Filter-Wrench-Cartridge-Housing/dp/B06XCZM39W

A 17mm socket for the oil drain plug (the torque spec is only 25nm so be careful not to overtighten, ideally use a torque wrench)

6.5l of oil, but it works out cheaper just buying 2x5l bottles and then you have spare for topping up or to keep for the next change.
I use this oil as it's what the Opie Oils oil expert pointed me towards on their pistonheads thread: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69365-fuchs-titan-gt1-flex-23-5w-30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

An oil filter. I always get a Bosch one, comes with the 2 new orings for the filter housing and a new washer for the drain plug.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-117637-bosch-element-oil-filter-1457429269-p-9269-.aspx

 

[enuff_zed]

............it works out cheaper just buying 2x5l bottles and then you have spare for topping up or to keep for the next change.

Next novice question..........

Is it acceptable to use the same oil in my N20 engined E89 and my wife's M54 engined E85?

If indeed they are different, would I be ok using the higher spec in both? Thinking I could buy 3 x 5 litres and do both.

 

[Anonymous]

............it works out cheaper just buying 2x5l bottles and then you have spare for topping up or to keep for the next change.

Next novice question..........

Is it acceptable to use the same oil in my N20 engined E89 and my wife's M54 engined E85?

If indeed they are different, would I be ok using the higher spec in both? Thinking I could buy 3 x 5 litres and do both.

The two engines come from different eras with different prioities and constraints..

A long US article here..

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

Using a modern LL04 compliant oil squares the circle providing its thin enough..

Bound to be a holy moly of an argument next..

 

[R.E92]

............it works out cheaper just buying 2x5l bottles and then you have spare for topping up or to keep for the next change.

Next novice question..........

Is it acceptable to use the same oil in my N20 engined E89 and my wife's M54 engined E85?

If indeed they are different, would I be ok using the higher spec in both? Thinking I could buy 3 x 5 litres and do both.

Probably but I would ask Opie Oils tech support to be sure, they have some proper oil nerds. I just asked them what the best was regardless of cost and they pointed me to the Fuchs stuff.

I run both my cars on the same oil to save on the hassle too. That Fuchs Titan meets LL04 which is what both engines need. Makes things a bit cheaper and also means less oil bottles laying around in the garage.

 

[enuff_zed]

............it works out cheaper just buying 2x5l bottles and then you have spare for topping up or to keep for the next change.

Next novice question..........

Is it acceptable to use the same oil in my N20 engined E89 and my wife's M54 engined E85?

If indeed they are different, would I be ok using the higher spec in both? Thinking I could buy 3 x 5 litres and do both.

Probably but I would ask Opie Oils tech support to be sure, they have some proper oil nerds. I just asked them what the best was regardless of cost and they pointed me to the Fuchs stuff.

I run both my cars on the same oil to save on the hassle too. That Fuchs Titan meets LL04 which is what both engines need. Makes things a bit cheaper and also means less oil bottles laying around in the garage.

 

[R.E92]

Next novice question..........

Is it acceptable to use the same oil in my N20 engined E89 and my wife's M54 engined E85?

If indeed they are different, would I be ok using the higher spec in both? Thinking I could buy 3 x 5 litres and do both.

Probably but I would ask Opie Oils tech support to be sure, they have some proper oil nerds. I just asked them what the best was regardless of cost and they pointed me to the Fuchs stuff.

I run both my cars on the same oil to save on the hassle too. That Fuchs Titan meets LL04 which is what both engines need. Makes things a bit cheaper and also means less oil bottles laying around in the garage.

Just to avoid confusion I was recommending that Fuchs stuff for step_change since he has a N54. Your N20 engined car will be a different kettle of fish.

 

[enuff_zed]

Probably but I would ask Opie Oils tech support to be sure, they have some proper oil nerds. I just asked them what the best was regardless of cost and they pointed me to the Fuchs stuff.

I run both my cars on the same oil to save on the hassle too. That Fuchs Titan meets LL04 which is what both engines need. Makes things a bit cheaper and also means less oil bottles laying around in the garage.

Just to avoid confusion I was recommending that Fuchs stuff for step_change since he has a N54. Your N20 engined car will be a different kettle of fish.

Well following your advice I went on the Opie Oils site and put in both my car registrations. Comes up with the same oils for both so that has helped me. Given that they supply 7l in a 'service kit' it seems it will work out most cost effective to buy 3x 5l.
Thanks for all the pointers.

 

[mr wilks]

Just to avoid confusion I was recommending that Fuchs stuff for step_change since he has a N54. Your N20 engined car will be a different kettle of fish.

Well following your advice I went on the Opie Oils site and put in both my car registrations. Comes up with the same oils for both so that has helped me. Given that they supply 7l in a 'service kit' it seems it will work out most cost effective to buy 3x 5l.
Thanks for all the pointers.

You would only need 11 litres in total for the two Zs & as Opie points out you can use the same oil for both turbo or na engines .
Other than the ZM S54 which takes 10w60 i use the same Millers Trident fully synthetic 5w 30 for our F11 520d , Yeti 2.0Tdi , & Z4 Si coupe 3.0 N52 & also used it in the N54 twin turbo Z4s
You can buy 6 litres https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILLERS-TRIDENT-LONGLIFE-5w30-Fully-Synthetic-Performance-Engine-Oil-6L/202321413946?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f1b4bc73a:glsAAOSwn~JdzTah&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKxIntehGqQQl8nLx%2FEZs3Rp8ll1Mm9UspJKHyo2YVJ1IOi2i3in9rmAqnA4%2F9DXJnBvC0xw%2FlYH43LSs%2BKSzdiqzn6JBCxtN7vKaEj9UWxYiJ%2FyaIYr6co8RY6D%2BepzQH%2F2Pb1Y7R%2BvF8UooWd9sGGFNIUS3ncP6AQosFn8tvajuW2Q7d01bIVmG1aaDV6B8eqA19MvDbVo2VS%2FNxhd16QajDk1iAmSzZo%2BMB7U9DfANHw1ZcBHecWW%2BTVkD2CMFjEMm9G7wmR0K403tXCl0s7y1Hpu3UKZ6kWn6CnYtkN4gdRA56DCsnpZFMn7%2BtMoB4cy9HbggOg10IkzqLqLlmGNMBUv2kAv2hXJaQxEZy53BwmCPE%2BRYm1CFBZFg9jV8MjdzByF5s93TUmzOpCzAG6h2tAlPmvGW44OOiyno%2BrXvI5xHmuJLkekEUnp2qIaootyHAEH%2Bz7UJLxNPPdOutI1I4cWOhVbb9OL7wapimZ91ZWHTScu1MCrWLuiZuT8hVc8PIdKbZ48aerlxxHTjLDd3KslrDmxpivxAzPmQilOZeBXlltY%2B923uFCWzPpp3IOC6DCfD6LYrxH%2F4TEN3iAIyMnDiCIlFQJp6JFjWSA6PZ%2FrfNUKLVKPbyMmjN%2Fh9cZkqfeieLT2GHt%2FdiWIN8n1tud%2BUUuf%2F4pCvlV8eH7zUBVqjNae3GCDxjw0Yxx%2BvWuEuvxAw46%2B6szyn9rAQbwA7fiySl%2BJJCP7xwp297FiGdjk65wB1E689BajaspXC79nwY2SW1Noo7c76Kzs3Wdw%3D%3D&checksum=202321413946dd9061718ac545d4a593e5aa4d71eedd + 5 litres https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-Trident-Longlife-5W30-Fully-Synthetic-Performance-Engine-Oil-5-L/301935031736?epid=646840422&hash=item464cbaf5b8:g:2EwAAOSwdkNdly79

 

[Nick9one1]

There's a cracking deal on of 5w40 in ECP at the moment. £30 for 20 litres!

I've just bought two...
40 litres / 6.5 = 6 oil changes
£60 / 6 = £10 an oil change!

 

[R.E92]

There's a cracking deal on of 5w40 in ECP at the moment. £30 for 20 litres!

I've just bought two...
40 litres / 6.5 = 6 oil changes
£60 / 6 = £10 an oil change!

received_233391051264164.jpeg

Is that LL01 or LL04 approved?

 

[Nick9one1]

LL01 - fine for the 35i not sure about the 4 pots.

Although I seem to remember reading that LL-04 was developed specifically for the sensitive diesels from the Euro-4 era. The early particulate filters were prone to blocking up. Wear additives etc are the same.

Later diesels can use LL-01 as the DPF technology got better.

 

[Anonymous]

LL01 - fine for the 35i not sure about the 4 pots.

Although I seem to remember reading that LL-04 was developed specifically for the sensitive diesels from the Euro-4 era. The early particulate filters were prone to blocking up. Wear additives etc are the same.

Later diesels can use LL-01 as the DPF technology got better.

LL01 is a ‘minimum requirement’ for N20 engines..

LL01FE is the preferred variant or LL17+ preferred..LL04 permitted in Europe only..

Pedanticism rules...

From TIS

4.0 BMW Longlife-01

BMW Longlife-01 engine oils are a minimum requirement for all BMW Group petrol engines without petrol particulate filter from model year 2002 and for BMW Group diesel engines without particulate filter from model year 2003. Aside from that, BMW Longlife-01 engine oils are also permitted for use in older BMW Group engines.

01FE are 0-30 oils and 17FE are 0-20 oils..sewing machine oils far cry from the 10-60 m series oils

 

[Nick9one1]

Done a little more reading and it seems there are two things that determine the choice of LL01 or LL04

In a nutshell..

High sulphur fuels create acids that degrade LL-04 oil.
Diesels need low ash oils. LL-04 is low ash. LL-01 isn't.

Europe has low sulphur petrol - LL-04/LL-01 is safe to use
Europe has low sulphur diesel - LL-04 is safe to use. LL-01 cannot be used.

US has high sulphur petrol, so LL01 has to be used. LL-04 cannot be used.
US has low sulphur diesel, so LL-04 is safe to use. LL-01 cannot be used.

If you take your UK/European Z4 to the US, you would need to swap to LL-01 oil. If you brought it back you could continue to use LL-01, or swap back to LL-04.