Time to go back to basics.
Springs define how much deflection a wheel experiences from the neutral position when a given force is applied. A heavier spring makes the wheel move more slowly & a smaller distance when a force is applied, this will translate into less body roll & also less wheel travel when hitting a bump, aka a firmer ride assuming the damping is reasonably close to being right. However, a heavier spring will push the wheel back down faster when load is removed.
To compensate for this you need dampers to control the motion of the spring. These do need to be matched reasonably well to the springs. Damping is not hard or soft it’s fast & slow. Faster damping means the springs movement is quelled faster, so assuming the spring isn’t under damped this makes the ride firmer. If the damping is slowed down then the spring can move more freely, so assuming the spring isn’t under damped then this makes the ride softer.
An ARB joins the two wheels via a spring that is braced against the chassis so they can’t move completely independently. This means as you load one wheel up under cornering some of that load is pushed onto the other wheel, pushing it into the road! However, if you have an ARB that’s too stiff the ARB will unload a wheel when going over surface imperfections.
Go too far out of sync with the springs & dampers and you get odd behaviour. If you go too slow on the damping then the ARB starts acting like a spring damper by activating the opposite damper & spring to control wheel better. When people start talking about keeping the ARB matched on road applications it means either their damping is too slow or they're trying to apply top end motorsport suspension tuning to road applications which just confuses the issue. As you're not in high performance motorsport here for road application you only want to tune the amount of body roll you get.
So my upgrade path would be Springs/dampers -> LSD -> ARB
Springs define how much deflection a wheel experiences from the neutral position when a given force is applied. A heavier spring makes the wheel move more slowly & a smaller distance when a force is applied, this will translate into less body roll & also less wheel travel when hitting a bump, aka a firmer ride assuming the damping is reasonably close to being right. However, a heavier spring will push the wheel back down faster when load is removed.
To compensate for this you need dampers to control the motion of the spring. These do need to be matched reasonably well to the springs. Damping is not hard or soft it’s fast & slow. Faster damping means the springs movement is quelled faster, so assuming the spring isn’t under damped this makes the ride firmer. If the damping is slowed down then the spring can move more freely, so assuming the spring isn’t under damped then this makes the ride softer.
An ARB joins the two wheels via a spring that is braced against the chassis so they can’t move completely independently. This means as you load one wheel up under cornering some of that load is pushed onto the other wheel, pushing it into the road! However, if you have an ARB that’s too stiff the ARB will unload a wheel when going over surface imperfections.
Go too far out of sync with the springs & dampers and you get odd behaviour. If you go too slow on the damping then the ARB starts acting like a spring damper by activating the opposite damper & spring to control wheel better. When people start talking about keeping the ARB matched on road applications it means either their damping is too slow or they're trying to apply top end motorsport suspension tuning to road applications which just confuses the issue. As you're not in high performance motorsport here for road application you only want to tune the amount of body roll you get.
So my upgrade path would be Springs/dampers -> LSD -> ARB
fitted my summers today set them at 34/36 psi