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Check this and you can do it:
https://zroadster.org/threads/z4-roof-motor-relocation-to-boot.19256/
https://zroadster.org/threads/z4-roof-motor-relocation-to-boot.19256/
Now, this will blow you mind! Roof motor relocation.
- Thread starter RenoRaines
- Start date
I know this is an old thread but im sure theres still loads of dead motors out there. Mine went 5 years ago. Yes 5 years ago and have been dropping it manually since then. Cost to repair at BMW close on £1900 at the time. As ive now taken early retirement got loads of time on my hands so thought id have a go.
Job done yesterday ! Its a B***** fiddly job. Having done it once ive learned a couple of tricks that would make the job easier. Have bench tested the motor and its well and truly dead as you would expect after 5 years sat in a bucket of water. Feel free to ask if anybody needs any tips on getting your motor into the boot. Refurb motor c £130 and it cant drown again v BMW massive cost and no guarantee after a year. No brainer.
In my opinion its a must do job. Even if its working now it WILL die. Unless you keep the drain holes clear. Even then a heavy days downpour washing enough debris into it will finish your motor off .Another new motor in its original position will inevitably suffer the same fate. Guaranteed
Job done yesterday ! Its a B***** fiddly job. Having done it once ive learned a couple of tricks that would make the job easier. Have bench tested the motor and its well and truly dead as you would expect after 5 years sat in a bucket of water. Feel free to ask if anybody needs any tips on getting your motor into the boot. Refurb motor c £130 and it cant drown again v BMW massive cost and no guarantee after a year. No brainer.
In my opinion its a must do job. Even if its working now it WILL die. Unless you keep the drain holes clear. Even then a heavy days downpour washing enough debris into it will finish your motor off .Another new motor in its original position will inevitably suffer the same fate. Guaranteed
clivey said:
It really doesn't need to be such a worry to be honest. It's just a matter of habit forming - a simple test to pour a little water into the recesses with the roof down is all that is required. If it's doesn't immediately appear in front of the rear wheels then you need to clear the drain plugs. The first thing to do is remove the rubber bungs - this reduces the chances of the drains blocking by an order of magnitude.
There are other reasons for keeping the bungs clear other than the roof motor - if the buckets fill and overflow, then water can run in and soak the carpets behind the seats. Next it gets to the airbag control module and then you are in a world of pain.
So in some respects, having the motor relocated and then just completely ignoring the bungs is a BAD policy. Much better to pull the bungs and stop them filling up in the first place. You can buy small endoscope cameras for your smartphone for less than £20 on Amazon these days. Great for having a look how much debris you have down there as a starter for 10.
Pulling the bungs and drilling the drain holes bigger at the top is the official BMW fix. Had to have it done on my 3.0 when the motor died.
There are plenty of folk on here now who will refurb your current motor - or have a refurbed one available - and move it to the boot for you in the same day, all without having to take the roof completely off.
There are plenty of folk on here now who will refurb your current motor - or have a refurbed one available - and move it to the boot for you in the same day, all without having to take the roof completely off.
I've just done this and put the motor in the boot, really easy.
Roof wasn't working so, I took the roof off, which is a bit fiddly but not difficult. The motor area was dry but the motor plastic case was full of water. Took the motor out and naturally it wasn't working.
I sent the motor off to ZShed and Mike got it work and sent it back the next day, £90 with postage.
The motor can be mounted in the boot and it fits neatly in the space under the left had roof tray hinge.
To mount it in the boot you need to reroute the cables, so I took out the left hand hinge, 1 nut, a screw and a plastic plug hold it in. You need to loosen the carpet too.
I then used a Dremel to cut a small slot in the plastic drip tray (the slot is on the side so any rain water will still run down the drain hole) and a matching one on the plastic hinge assembly, you will see why when you take it out as the two sections overlap.
Refit the hinge assembly, now the cables run behind it and there is plenty of slack in them so they aren't being pulled.
You can now use the existing loose boot carpet to cover the motor.
Next thing is to attach the motor to something.
There is an earth point on the body behind where you are putting the motor, it has a nut holding a piece of black plastic with some wires going into it. I took the nut off and attached a short length of bracket. I could then feed a jubilee clip through it and around the motor.
Motor now firmly in place. I then surrounded the motor with some foam and folded the boot carpet over it.
Job done.
Total cost £90 and about 6 hours of my time
Roof wasn't working so, I took the roof off, which is a bit fiddly but not difficult. The motor area was dry but the motor plastic case was full of water. Took the motor out and naturally it wasn't working.
I sent the motor off to ZShed and Mike got it work and sent it back the next day, £90 with postage.
The motor can be mounted in the boot and it fits neatly in the space under the left had roof tray hinge.
To mount it in the boot you need to reroute the cables, so I took out the left hand hinge, 1 nut, a screw and a plastic plug hold it in. You need to loosen the carpet too.
I then used a Dremel to cut a small slot in the plastic drip tray (the slot is on the side so any rain water will still run down the drain hole) and a matching one on the plastic hinge assembly, you will see why when you take it out as the two sections overlap.
Refit the hinge assembly, now the cables run behind it and there is plenty of slack in them so they aren't being pulled.
You can now use the existing loose boot carpet to cover the motor.
Next thing is to attach the motor to something.
There is an earth point on the body behind where you are putting the motor, it has a nut holding a piece of black plastic with some wires going into it. I took the nut off and attached a short length of bracket. I could then feed a jubilee clip through it and around the motor.
Motor now firmly in place. I then surrounded the motor with some foam and folded the boot carpet over it.
Job done.
Total cost £90 and about 6 hours of my time
North West Surrey
no need and no point in removing the roof to relocate motor!
As said I did it from the boot earlier this week. It wasn't that easy, but having done it once and learned from this I could make it a much, much easier and quicker job - about an hour, including changing the motor and securing it. Didn't bother trying to wrap the boot carpet around it. It looks untidy.
So a piece of b and q anthracite carpet tile (£2.89) cut to size and a bit of Velcro that I already had.5 minutes to do see pics
As said I did it from the boot earlier this week. It wasn't that easy, but having done it once and learned from this I could make it a much, much easier and quicker job - about an hour, including changing the motor and securing it. Didn't bother trying to wrap the boot carpet around it. It looks untidy.
So a piece of b and q anthracite carpet tile (£2.89) cut to size and a bit of Velcro that I already had.5 minutes to do see pics
