Allan in Athens
New member
Used the pry bar on the water pump to pry the sheetmetal crossmember about 3mm and the VANOS rotated and slipped right out. I also loosened the 4 bolts on that crossmember before prying.
- I got oil all over the top of the engine despite furiously dobbing with 6 cotton t-shirts as rags. Got oil and coolant on my belts- but it didn't seem to hurt them.
- on my '03 Z4, I had to disconnect the lower radiator hose and it's 2 electrical connectors to allow the VANOS clearance.
-I had to remove my windshield washer tank to allow access to the solenoid electrical connectors.
- the thin metal gaskets on the VANOS will cut you.
-one of the 10mm nuts holding the VANOS on is above/next to the thermostat. If you don't have magnetic sockets, use a dab of RTV or form-a-gasket on the nut so that it sticks in the socket and doesn't fall down into the engine. It takes several tries to get that nut back on to that stud.
I followed and used this as a guide:
"I've done more than 30 VANOS and several were Z4 (I'm helping Beisan System here in the west cost and helping with the launch of the products in Italy). The bigger problem with Z4 is the clearance between the VANOS unit and the front cross member. The TIS is useless: information are generic and gives little insight on how to do it on the Z4 (as a matter of fact is the same exact procedure regardless the car). The Beisan procedure is far better: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
Some advice.
1) you'll need a pry bar similar to this one Harbor Freight Pry Bar
Once you're ready to remove the VANOS unit, remove the 4 bolts on top of the cross memeber, put the pry bar on the waterpump shaft and push back on the cross member while you remove the VANOS from the studds. I find it best to have someone helping. I also have pix at home on how to do this. I just moved and I'm not sure I'll be able to upload them tonight, but I'll try.
2) you'll need a 90 deg angle long nose pliers to remove the orange caps in front of the bearing. The straight pliers won't fit.
3) between the nuts #1 and #2 from the right (facing the engine) holding the VANOS to the head there's a bolt holding the thermostat. Since you won't see what you're turning, pay particular attention.
4) On earlyer Z4 the temp sensor is at the exit of the thermostat and will be in your way of removing the VANOS: you'll have to remove the upper connection (connected to the thermostat) of the lower coolant hose. Some coolant will drip out, but won't bee to bad. If that's the case for you, make sure you check the coolant level, fill it up, and blead it.
3) when removing the 2 caps in front of the VANOS piston (8mm allen) you'll need a traditional 8mm 90 deg allen wrench and you'll have to use an pipe to break it loose. A torque wrench won't fit there.
None of this is on the TIS: in some sections it actually assumes you have the engine removed form the car. It also say you need to lock the timing: this IS NOT necessary on double VANOS cars and timing WILL NOT be affected."
Allan
- I got oil all over the top of the engine despite furiously dobbing with 6 cotton t-shirts as rags. Got oil and coolant on my belts- but it didn't seem to hurt them.
- on my '03 Z4, I had to disconnect the lower radiator hose and it's 2 electrical connectors to allow the VANOS clearance.
-I had to remove my windshield washer tank to allow access to the solenoid electrical connectors.
- the thin metal gaskets on the VANOS will cut you.
-one of the 10mm nuts holding the VANOS on is above/next to the thermostat. If you don't have magnetic sockets, use a dab of RTV or form-a-gasket on the nut so that it sticks in the socket and doesn't fall down into the engine. It takes several tries to get that nut back on to that stud.
I followed and used this as a guide:
"I've done more than 30 VANOS and several were Z4 (I'm helping Beisan System here in the west cost and helping with the launch of the products in Italy). The bigger problem with Z4 is the clearance between the VANOS unit and the front cross member. The TIS is useless: information are generic and gives little insight on how to do it on the Z4 (as a matter of fact is the same exact procedure regardless the car). The Beisan procedure is far better: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
Some advice.
1) you'll need a pry bar similar to this one Harbor Freight Pry Bar
Once you're ready to remove the VANOS unit, remove the 4 bolts on top of the cross memeber, put the pry bar on the waterpump shaft and push back on the cross member while you remove the VANOS from the studds. I find it best to have someone helping. I also have pix at home on how to do this. I just moved and I'm not sure I'll be able to upload them tonight, but I'll try.
2) you'll need a 90 deg angle long nose pliers to remove the orange caps in front of the bearing. The straight pliers won't fit.
3) between the nuts #1 and #2 from the right (facing the engine) holding the VANOS to the head there's a bolt holding the thermostat. Since you won't see what you're turning, pay particular attention.
4) On earlyer Z4 the temp sensor is at the exit of the thermostat and will be in your way of removing the VANOS: you'll have to remove the upper connection (connected to the thermostat) of the lower coolant hose. Some coolant will drip out, but won't bee to bad. If that's the case for you, make sure you check the coolant level, fill it up, and blead it.
3) when removing the 2 caps in front of the VANOS piston (8mm allen) you'll need a traditional 8mm 90 deg allen wrench and you'll have to use an pipe to break it loose. A torque wrench won't fit there.
None of this is on the TIS: in some sections it actually assumes you have the engine removed form the car. It also say you need to lock the timing: this IS NOT necessary on double VANOS cars and timing WILL NOT be affected."
Allan