Not feeling this was a stellar purchase.

You could be lucky- when i used my z as a daily (up to 8 years old) I never had to replace the battery then when it became a sun and fun car after a few years without a battery conditioner the car threw up some odd problems all resolved with a new battery at 12 years old. This may be worth a try as 85genius suggests as it may solve the issue and at least will prevent any future issues.
 
Monkeydonkeyratmagic said:
Pot hole last night. Eaten a shock or bottom arm now. Any bump over 10mph sounds like it's bouncing on metal. Fml.
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Ouch!

Did the code reader arrive?

Regarding batteries, they can and do last.. Depends on the usage. Mine @ 65k is still on the original battery, and last time I checked, it was still at 88% SOH on the tester (state of health) so I have no worries about it being 14 years old at the moment.

Mike
 
My original battery lasted over 100,00p miles, and was only replaced due to a dodgy digital alternator overcharging it.

Mine was a daily driver, but it did get occasionally get left for weeks at a time when I was working abroad.
 
Ducklakeview said:
Monkeydonkeyratmagic said:
Pot hole last night. Eaten a shock or bottom arm now. Any bump over 10mph sounds like it's bouncing on metal. Fml.
Click to expand...


Regarding batteries, they can and do last.. Depends on the usage. Mine @ 65k is still on the original battery, and last time I checked, it was still at 88% SOH on the tester (state of health) so I have no worries about it being 14 years old at the moment.

Mike
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Yeah mine at 12YO was working perfectly until the Mrs decided to run the heaters lights and stereo without the engine on and killed it
 
Coder has arrived but won't get to use it until later tonight. Using the "hidden menu" voltage on the battery seems to be 11.9 after running on full beam for a few mins to remove residual power. So it's an option at least. I see there is an option to "reset all defect codes" any idea what this does?
 
Monkeydonkeyratmagic said:
Coder has arrived but won't get to use it until later tonight. Using the "hidden menu" voltage on the battery seems to be 11.9 after running on full beam for a few mins to remove residual power. So it's an option at least. I see there is an option to "reset all defect codes" any idea what this does?
Click to expand...

DON'T use that option until you've read and made a note of the codes. THEN use it and "see what comes back"

Mike
 
Monkeydonkeyratmagic said:
voltage on the battery seems to be 11.9
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Sounds fucked then should be at or around 14, I'm guessing a new battery will fix your woes.

Like I said the car goes a bit mental when the battery drops below a certain level so I'd be cautious in trusting any of the stored fault codes
 
Is the 11.9v with the engine running, or with it off and main beam on for a few minutes to remove surface charge? If the latter it's acceptable.

Mike
 
Update.

£95 on a new battery. Airbag light off. Hazar seriously irritating s**t of a red light gtfo.
Dash lights went off for a while but are back, again wheel speed sensors. As these work magnetically I'm guessing low voltage has killed them off a touch. So Gippo £9 ones on, reset and 40 miles drive.. all clear so far.

My knocking at NSF is coming from the top mount. There is movement with the wheel off and giving the peg a shove.

Do the spring require clamping to get them off at all or can it be done without them?
 
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