New suspension - What parts required??

D

dhobbs

Senior member
Hi

As my roadster has just gone past 100k, i think it's time to refresh the suspension. My plan is to go for the Bilstein B12 kit, but I would like to get together a list of bits that I need to get whilst the car is in bits.
I shall try and update this when I get part numbers (and also advice from the clever people on here)

Bilstein B12 Kit
Front parts:
1. Front top mount BMW 31336779613
2. 3x nuts for the top mounts (each side)
3. Top nut for suspension strut?
4. Lower bolt for clamping strut. Plus gas for removing old bolt
5. Bump stops - not required as internal to bilstein.

Rear Parts
1. Rear top mount BMW 33526779670
2. 2x nuts for top mount
3. Bottom bolt for strut.
4. Spring boots/covers. Cheap so why not.
5. Bump stops?

Front details
Front suspension.jpg

Rear details
Rear suspension.jpg

Any advice if I need new nuts/bolts or any of the rubber covers for the springs or indeed any other part.

Just to clarify, I'm only talking about struts and springs at the moment. Slowly replacing all the other bits!

Thanks
Daz
 
For the fronts you are not going to need the bump stops as bilsteins are an inverted strut design, so it has an internal bump stop.
 
alekos911 said:
For the fronts you are not going to need the bump stops as bilsteins are an inverted strut design, so it has an internal bump stop.
Click to expand...

Thanks, great to know.
 
New spring pads, not required but not expensive to renew either.

You don't need any nuts, B12 comes with some for the struts and the top mount ones are all out of the line of fire so tend to still be in fine condition.

My rear lower strut bolts were fine but definitely buy the front bolts for the pinch clamp. Half the thread is open to the elements and is a real mess, to the extent that it makes getting them out very hard. Make sure you wire brush or similar the exposed thread between the pinch joint before undoing and you may need some heat. I used a hairdryer and it actually worked!

The rear strut covers are probably fine, but the bump stops will be shagged. I've seen both sold together on eBay but you could just get the bump stops.
 
RyanB88 said:
Lolly pop bushes!
Click to expand...

Had the front control arms done recently and only last month done the front ARB bushes and drop links. Rear ARB bushes also but couldn't get the old droplinks off so gave up on that.
 
Steve84N said:
New spring pads, not required but not expensive to renew either.

You don't need any nuts, B12 comes with some for the struts and the top mount ones are all out of the line of fire so tend to still be in fine condition.

My rear lower strut bolts were fine but definitely buy the front bolts for the pinch clamp. Half the thread is open to the elements and is a real mess, to the extent that it makes getting them out very hard. Make sure you wire brush or similar the exposed thread between the pinch joint before undoing and you may need some heat. I used a hairdryer and it actually worked!

The rear strut covers are probably fine, but the bump stops will be shagged. I've seen both sold together on eBay but you could just get the bump stops.
Click to expand...

Good advice on the front pinch bolts... and go steady as they can be a bit*h to remove, I snapped one and ended up getting a front hub from the local breakers yard! :cry:
Loosen then tighten and repeat until it feels free, reduces the stress and should avoid snapping it but certainly go overboard on the WD40 and allow it to soak if possible!

Personally I'd change the top mounts while I was at it, not 100% necessary but easy to do while you're there! :thumbsup:
 
Chris1981 said:
Steve84N said:
New spring pads, not required but not expensive to renew either.

You don't need any nuts, B12 comes with some for the struts and the top mount ones are all out of the line of fire so tend to still be in fine condition.

My rear lower strut bolts were fine but definitely buy the front bolts for the pinch clamp. Half the thread is open to the elements and is a real mess, to the extent that it makes getting them out very hard. Make sure you wire brush or similar the exposed thread between the pinch joint before undoing and you may need some heat. I used a hairdryer and it actually worked!

The rear strut covers are probably fine, but the bump stops will be shagged. I've seen both sold together on eBay but you could just get the bump stops.
Click to expand...

Good advice on the front pinch bolts... and go steady as they can be a bit*h to remove, I snapped one and ended up getting a front hub from the local breakers yard! :cry:
Loosen then tighten and repeat until it feels free, reduces the stress and should avoid snapping it but certainly go overboard on the WD40 and allow it to soak if possible!

Personally I'd change the top mounts while I was at it, not 100% necessary but easy to do while you're there! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I can only echo the above advice after falling prey to the same issue, one side loosened off with no issue, the other sheared as soon as I started applying moderate force. Also ended up with a replacement hub!
 
Don't use WD40, Plusgas is a better fluid for the job.

The bottom rear shock bolt requires Loctite, not sure if they are single use but for the few quid for all new bolts I got them all. Top nuts included but don't remember the top mount nuts being included.

Get all the spring pads, they're cheap.

Might as well do your RTABs and drop links along with front control arms while you're there.
 
Ok, will replace all the nuts/bolts as they're cheapish.
Spring pads too.
Top mounts are obvious as it's all apart (think the rears are knocking anyway).
Rear bumper stops as well.

Good advice about the front strut removal. Will need some plusgas now.
 
One of my front top mounts had split the rubber so worth replacing for sure.

Initially I bought Turner rear mounts but they knocked and are a rubbish design, the metal tube within is a fair bit shorter than the hard rubber pieces so it doesn't clamp together well. When I took it apart again to replace with Meyle HD one of the tubes had deformed into an oblong shape and was probably why they knocked so much.

These are the offending items:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-...etime-warranty-e30-e36-e46-z3-z4-pair/?pdk=BA
 
Just replaced the rear shocks and springs.
Bit of a pain getting the rear shelf off, but all relatively straight forward.

Here's my old shocks, I depressed them both fully and let them rise! What did I expect for the original ones at 100K? :roll:

Shocking rear shocks.jpg
 
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