New pads.

One other point--if your brake warning light is flickering on/off, check the fluid. Both the clutch and brakes work off a common master cylinder and as both wear, the level drops. I've gone in for service, thinking I needed pads, but only needed a bit of fluid in they cylinder with many more miles left on the pads.

OEM are very good, but they are dusty as heck. :(
 
But did you know Smokin that you're not supposed to top up the master cylinder above minimum until new pads are installed and then it should be set at Max? That way as the pads and clutch wear out the fluid will drop closer to minimum. When new pads are installed it takes it back to max. Put another way the level change between Min and Max is equal to the full wear of the pads.

This way you never pump fluid out the master cylinder when fitting new. Most people however keep adding fluid if it drops below Max.
 
Sorry to thread hijack but i need some advice on my brakes which need new pads soon.

The discs have been worn down by about 1mm or so leaving a small 'lip' around the edge where the pad wasn't in contact. Does this mean the disc needs replacing? There is no scoring and they still work perfectly.

Secondly, do aftermarket pads have the exact same size contact area as OEM? I.e if they were a fraction bigger as so overlapped on the 'lip' left by the old pads then there could be a problem with the pad not being flush with the disc.

Many thanks
 
tomTVR said:
Sorry to thread hijack but i need some advice on my brakes which need new pads soon.

The discs have been worn down by about 1mm or so leaving a small 'lip' around the edge where the pad wasn't in contact. Does this mean the disc needs replacing? There is no scoring and they still work perfectly.

Secondly, do aftermarket pads have the exact same size contact area as OEM? I.e if they were a fraction bigger as so overlapped on the 'lip' left by the old pads then there could be a problem with the pad not being flush with the disc.

Many thanks
Click to expand...

Tom

As a general rule by the time you've got a distinct lip it's time to change them. You can measure them against OEM with figures on the site somewhere if you search. Min diameter is also stamped on the outer circumference of the disc, if you can read it.

If you fit new pad they would cut up and bed in on the lip in a couple of miles, so not an issue.

Personally on a 155 mph car I like to change everything if it's that worn
 
cj10jeeper said:
But did you know Smokin that you're not supposed to top up the master cylinder above minimum until new pads are installed and then it should be set at Max? That way as the pads and clutch wear out the fluid will drop closer to minimum. When new pads are installed it takes it back to max. Put another way the level change between Min and Max is equal to the full wear of the pads.

This way you never pump fluid out the master cylinder when fitting new. Most people however keep adding fluid if it drops below Max.
Click to expand...

Me? I just take it in, hand the keys to the service adviser and say "fix it". Works great.
 
Got my new discs today, a pair of standard rear discs, the fronts are in good condition still. £75 for both rear discs delivered, delivery was £20 :x
Greenstuff pads for all round should arrive by Monday. :thumbsup: Hopefully my wheels won't get so manky now.

BMW pads aren't great but they must be better than Honda's. My workmates alloys on his Civic really do look like they're anthracite within days of them being washed, I've never seen such an even, strong coating of brake dust :roll:
 
cj10jeeper said:
But did you know Smokin that you're not supposed to top up the master cylinder above minimum until new pads are installed and then it should be set at Max? That way as the pads and clutch wear out the fluid will drop closer to minimum. When new pads are installed it takes it back to max. Put another way the level change between Min and Max is equal to the full wear of the pads.

This way you never pump fluid out the master cylinder when fitting new. Most people however keep adding fluid if it drops below Max.
Click to expand...

good point!!

although if over max, can easily be fixed by bleeding one of the brake lines or as u said pumping fluid out

just changed my clutch/brake fluid w/o changing pads or rotors, so i'll have to double check my levels, although the car drives fine ...

but yah, good to know for sure!! :thumbsup:
 
i actually find the OEM pads very good for everyday use ... good initial bite, stops car plenty fast for real world driving ... keep in mind BMW designed the pads for good braking w/o giving the average grandma out there whiplash :D

of course if u want more bite, as it seems most of us on this forum do, then yah, u have to upgrade

ditto on the stock pads being hella dusty!!!
 
haven't researched it for BMW, but i used to have a Honda and those who own Hondas and want max stopping power w/ their pads often go w/ Endless

but iirc Endless are crazy expensive!!! but i have used their track pad before and they are AWESOME!!! but they do require breaking in period and warming up before they are "awesome" :)
 
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