New E89 Owner

[Zann]

Hi all,

Brand new member here. Just bought a 2013 e89 just 30k miles on the clock.

It's 20i and the engine sounds great but I'm already thinking about a map and resonator delete. Looking to either have some sense talked into me or encouraged lol

 

[B21]

Re-map great idea..have it done on a rolling road with a pre and post dyno run..

Not a fan of resonator deletes..especially on 4 cylinder sounds naff..IMHO

Maybe remove the splitter if you plan to visit Scotland..

 

[Zann]

Yeah considering removing the splitter. My drive is a little steep from the road.

Previous owner has added some M badges to the exterior that I need to rip off.

What is your experience with reliability post remap. I know people say it's the same car as the 28i, is that your experience?

 

[peeblezZ4]

Welcome. Nice looking car. Hardly run in!

 

[Zann]

The exhaust manifold is still mostly silver if you can believe it.

 

[buzyg]

Smart looking Z4 you have. Welcome aboard.

 

[B21]

Yeah considering removing the splitter. My drive is a little steep from the road.

Previous owner has added some M badges to the exterior that I need to rip off.

What is your experience with reliability post remap. I know people say it's the same car as the 28i, is that your experience?

We (on this forum) have accumulated a fair degree of knowledge on the re-maps..provided it done by a competent tuner on a dyno then it should prove reliable, the 2013 20i has the early camchain so strongly suggest you use high quality oils and change every 5k miles..starting now..also the high pressure fuel pump is weaker on the earlier N20 engines which is in part why a proper tuner is required to ensure it doesn't run weak a the top end under big throttle settings..

The 18i, 20i and 28i all have the same physical version of the N20

 

[Zann]

Yeah considering removing the splitter. My drive is a little steep from the road.

Previous owner has added some M badges to the exterior that I need to rip off.

What is your experience with reliability post remap. I know people say it's the same car as the 28i, is that your experience?

We (on this forum) have accumulated a fair degree of knowledge on the re-maps..provided it done by a competent tuner on a dyno then it should prove reliable, the 2013 20i has the early camchain so strongly suggest you use high quality oils and change every 5k miles..starting now..also the high pressure fuel pump is weaker on the earlier N20 engines which is in part why a proper tuner is required to ensure it doesn't run weak a the top end under big throttle settings..

The 18i, 20i and 28i all have the same physical version of the N20

Appreciate the advice. Any recommendations for tuners in the UK?

Cam chain and guides is on my list to keep an eye out for. My mechanic told me not to worry if I'm regularly servicing it untill about 60-70k. Does that fit with the experience here?

It had a full service, oils and all two weeks ago.

 

[Pondy]

Cam chain and guides is on my list to keep an eye out for. My mechanic told me not to worry if I'm regularly servicing it untill about 60-70k. Does that fit with the experience here?

Yes, that is good advice IMO.
A remap will transform the car. Much better low down torque as well as HP throughout the rev range and just makes the N20 a much better experience. It's also pretty rapid with a 280bhp/ 350nm map.

Just do your homework, as there have been reports of (a very few) piston failures on the N20 which have been remapped. Don't know if there is any evidence of a single tuner having the problem.

It is worth remembering IMO, that the N20 was designed by BMW to be 245bhp/ 350nm (ish), so the 20i is a 'de-tuned' version anyway. The 18i is a 'strangled' version!

I had my previous 2013, low mileage, 18i remapped by Superchips on my driveway. The car is still owned by a forum member and nearly four years on is still going strong with no issues.

 

[B21]

Yeah considering removing the splitter. My drive is a little steep from the road.

Previous owner has added some M badges to the exterior that I need to rip off.

What is your experience with reliability post remap. I know people say it's the same car as the 28i, is that your experience?

We (on this forum) have accumulated a fair degree of knowledge on the re-maps..provided it done by a competent tuner on a dyno then it should prove reliable, the 2013 20i has the early camchain so strongly suggest you use high quality oils and change every 5k miles..starting now..also the high pressure fuel pump is weaker on the earlier N20 engines which is in part why a proper tuner is required to ensure it doesn't run weak a the top end under big throttle settings..

The 18i, 20i and 28i all have the same physical version of the N20

Appreciate the advice. Any recommendations for tuners in the UK?

Cam chain and guides is on my list to keep an eye out for. My mechanic told me not to worry if I'm regularly servicing it untill about 60-70k. Does that fit with the experience here?

It had a full service, oils and all two weeks ago.

Essentially anyone does a 'proper tune' that is puts in on the dyno..does some runs to confirm the baseline is as expected..these days it may already have been tuned, ensure fuel flow and other things are all nominal..then based on your request either take it to a specific BHP/torque figure (auto boxers have limitations) or does as much as he can consistent with his safety margins..

I had an off the shelf (OTS) tune first time by a well respected Indy without a dyno run and it was duff..

With a stock OTS tune from a cowboy source (diffcult to assertain) you can run rich and bore score ..lean and melt a piston..contrary to my expectations there's a wide range of responses from different N20s...some make more power, some make more torque, some want to rev, others run out of puff early on.

Parts age..especiallyb turbos, things coke up on the inlets to an extent, etc etc

Electronic waste gate cars tend to tune better, most of those have the later HPFP also, fresh plugs, coils, filters all help or avoid tears.

Choice of 98/99 RON fuel gives a few more ponies but then you're committed to using premium fuel

Where are you based?

 

[Mr Tidy]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Somehow I think a remap is just a matter of time away!

 

[Zann]

We (on this forum) have accumulated a fair degree of knowledge on the re-maps..provided it done by a competent tuner on a dyno then it should prove reliable, the 2013 20i has the early camchain so strongly suggest you use high quality oils and change every 5k miles..starting now..also the high pressure fuel pump is weaker on the earlier N20 engines which is in part why a proper tuner is required to ensure it doesn't run weak a the top end under big throttle settings..

The 18i, 20i and 28i all have the same physical version of the N20

Appreciate the advice. Any recommendations for tuners in the UK?

Cam chain and guides is on my list to keep an eye out for. My mechanic told me not to worry if I'm regularly servicing it untill about 60-70k. Does that fit with the experience here?

It had a full service, oils and all two weeks ago.

Essentially anyone does a 'proper tune' that is puts in on the dyno..does some runs to confirm the baseline is as expected..these days it may already have been tuned, ensure fuel flow and other things are all nominal..then based on your request either take it to a specific BHP/torque figure (auto boxers have limitations) or does as much as he can consistent with his safety margins..

I had an off the shelf (OTS) tune first time by a well respected Indy without a dyno run and it was duff..

With a stock OTS tune from a cowboy source (diffcult to assertain) you can run rich and bore score ..lean and melt a piston..contrary to my expectations there's a wide range of responses from different N20s...some make more power, some make more torque, some want to rev, others run out of puff early on.

Parts age..especiallyb turbos, things coke up on the inlets to an extent, etc etc

Electronic waste gate cars tend to tune better, most of those have the later HPFP also, fresh plugs, coils, filters all help or avoid tears.

Choice of 98/99 RON fuel gives a few more ponies but then you're committed to using premium fuel

Where are you based?

Thanks for the detail it's really helpful. I'm not looking to eek out crazy numbers just get the car to the 28i level and maximise low end torque. My priority is looking after the engine because I'm intending to keep this car for the long term as a daily.

I'm based in Hertfordshire but I travel to Manchester regularly for work. I'd be happy to travel for a good recommendation if it means I can be confident in the map.

 

[Ole gits rule]

https://mobileecotuning.com/rolling-road-dyno/?_gl=1*1styo0y*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTI1MTA0MjM3LjE3NDAzNDU0NjE.*_ga_BX7GPTMY7J*MTc0MDM0NTQ2MS4xLjAuMTc0MDM0NTQ2MS42MC4wLjEyOTk5MTQyMjM.

These guys have a good reputation locally - never used them though