New daily driver <£9k

JonVR46

Member
 Yorkshire
Site Supporter
Hello,

So I'm looking for a new daily driver, for a new job starting early February. I'll commute 75 miles a day, 40 motorway & 35 country roads/urban.

As much as I love driving my newly purchased e86, I'm not willing to add 75 miles a day! :driving:

I've narrowed my search down to the cars below (all around 2014-2017)
  • Audi A4/A4 Avant 2.0d
  • BMW 320 M-Sport 2.0d
  • Jaguar XE 2.0d
  • Mazda6 Sky Activ-D Euro 6 2.2L (look great on paper but engines are garbage.....apparently)
  • Peugeot 308 or 508 BlueHDi 2.0d
  • Volvo V60 D4 R-Design 2.0d
Have any of you got one now? Owned one previously? Heard any good or bad reviews? (y)
 
Have had two Mazda6 diesel estates. Both were new and the 180bhp version; a 2011 and a 2016. Good cars IME although the 150bhp versions are gutless. The earlier one was better than the later. Don't know why the engines have a bad rep, as they are Mazda L-blocks which have been used in many other cars in one form or another. I had no trouble with either of mine in a combined 80k miles. They did both leave me when three years old though.

I have an A4 avant 2 litre petrol at present. Again it is new. Good car and probably one of the prettiest estate cars but not the most interesting to drive. The 2 litre TDi VW engine is well proven, as it has powered millions of cars for yonks.

Personally would avoid Peugeot of that age/ money. Even if all the electrics work (unusual for a Frenchie if they do), they will be worth a fiver tomorrow.

I recently was looking for a new car for my daughter with a similar budget to yours. There is a shockingly awful lot of crap around for that sort of money, so be very careful what you buy whatever it is.
 
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I had a 2015 F31 320D Touring for about 3 years (automatic 8-speed ZF), and it's been all over Europe (and done a lap or two of the 'Ring).

Averaged 50mpg+ and no lower than 35mpg when chasing Z4s on Welsh, Scottish, National hoons.

I like it so much that I simply bought its bigger-engined (i.e. 2016 335d) sibling when I fancied a change. The 320D (especially in saloon form) should easily be available for <£10k.

If you do look at an auto, and it's on more than 100,000 miles, then check that it's had the auto box serviced...as BMW claim it's 'sealed for life' but of course don't care if it breaks once out of warranty. ZF recommend a 60,000 mile interval for the box. Unfortunately there's not an easy way to see if it's working perfectly as you'd need to drive a few to see if one stands out as better/worse than the others. But the ZF box is generally very reliable.

Ride can be considered harsh on the M-Sport models on 19s/20s, but there are Luxury, SE and other specs with standard suspension, smaller wheels with bigger tyres (17/18s) which work better on rougher roads. I run an 18" set with all-seasons for the winter for the better ride and cheaper tyres.

Spec is important on any of these models, and the sat-nav / hi-fi can be a bit naff if it's the entry-level version, as it's a very basic nav system and small screen. The later LCI models (started late 2015 on some models) are more likely to have the touchscreen uprade and a choice between xenon or LED lights, whereas the pre-LCI modesl (to end of 2015, but depends on exact model) have a halogen or xenon option. You can get seat heating (front and rear), steering wheel heating, sport-auto gearbox mode (paddles and a sportier gearbox map), panoramic sunroof (which is fun if you like the sun, but make sure it works as BMW will only sell you the whole thing if it fails).

My upgrde also means it has the latest iDrive 6 with Apple Carplay integration, so I can use Waze maps instead of the BMW ones...which stopped receiving updates a few years back. The ConnectedDrive service is probably useless too...you might see cars advertised with it as a feature, but BMW have deprecated the 3g SIM service, so only allows a very small amount of data over the remaining 2g service.

Old...
OSF - edited.jpg

New...
Exterior Front Oblique.jpg

They're identical colours/trim (Estoril Blue with Black Dakota leather and M-Performance Alcantara/Carbon interior trim), but the lighting conditions make the old one look darker/duller.

Trim.jpg
 
Don't buy a diesel Volvo from that era. The early VEA engines were problematic.
I had a 2019 V90 D4 for a while. The engine was OK but the infotainment system kept going MIA randomly. Big old bus aswell.
 
I've had a couple of diesel BMWs some years ago, a 2004 320td then a 2007 123d, and liked them both but the 123d had the N47 engine which can suffer cam-chain issues although mine got to 81K miles without a problem. Anyway the N47 engine was used in most 4 cylinder BMWs so maybe one to avoid. By all accounts the 330d is a much safer bet and some owners claim there isn't much difference in fuel economy.

I don't know about the other options, although I have read about "chocolate" autoboxes in Volvos.
 
I've had a couple of diesel BMWs some years ago, a 2004 320td then a 2007 123d, and liked them both but the 123d had the N47 engine which can suffer cam-chain issues although mine got to 81K miles without a problem. Anyway the N47 engine was used in most 4 cylinder BMWs so maybe one to avoid. By all accounts the 330d is a much safer bet and some owners claim there isn't much difference in fuel economy.

I don't know about the other options, although I have read about "chocolate" autoboxes in Volvos.
Yes, both the N47 and N57 diesels could have timing chain issues…the 4-pot N47 being more prone than the 6-pot N57.

Some say it’s down to a poor implementation of the stop/start system, others point to a failing tensioner/guide. Unfortunately, due to BMW putting the chain at the back of the engine, it becomes very expensive to replace to a specific schedule. The recommendation seems to be to disable auto stop/start (via simple checkbox ticking in BimmerCode) and to check the guide/tensioner and replace as necessary.
 
I recently was looking for a new car for my daughter with a similar budget to yours. There is a shockingly awful lot of crap around for that sort of money, so be very careful what you buy whatever it is.
Thanks for all that :thumbsup:

Yes I agree, there are loads of dubious motors at this price bracket. The Audi A4 (boring but reliable) seems about the best. First thing I look at are the tyres. If all four are different or none branded then chances are its not been looked after.

I'm going to do more research on the Mazda 6 diesel, as I've found a couple more reviews that say the engines are good.
 
Thanks for all that :thumbsup:

Yes I agree, there are loads of dubious motors at this price bracket. The Audi A4 (boring but reliable) seems about the best. First thing I look at are the tyres. If all four are different or none branded then chances are its not been looked after.

I'm going to do more research on the Mazda 6 diesel, as I've found a couple more reviews that say the engines are good.
The tyres is a good one, except that dealers will put new tyres on cars if they need them and put the cheapest junk they can find on, so can be misleading.

A Mazda6 is a much better car to drive than an A4 IME. Not got the 'keeping up with the neighbours' kudos but hey.

What about an Octavia or Superb? Same VW diesel engine as an Audrey at a lower price point (not by a lot though these days). The wife had a 2019 Octavia for three years which was a great car. I wish I had bought that one from the lease company but didn't. :headbang:
 
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Yes tyres are a good indicator to me. I've got a bit of time so I'll test drive a Mazda and see what its like :)

Octavia is an option, so is a Passat seen as they're all basically the same as the A4.

I've just discovered the Infiniti (Nissan) with the 2.2d (Merc engine). They seem good on paper..........the options are growing, I wanted to wittle the list down :geek:
 
Yes, both the N47 and N57 diesels could have timing chain issues…the 4-pot N47 being more prone than the 6-pot N57.

Some say it’s down to a poor implementation of the stop/start system, others point to a failing tensioner/guide. Unfortunately, due to BMW putting the chain at the back of the engine, it becomes very expensive to replace to a specific schedule. The recommendation seems to be to disable auto stop/start (via simple checkbox ticking in BimmerCode) and to check the guide/tensioner and replace as necessary.
Gone are the days of a timing chain doing 100,000 miles+ without issues!

Is putting the timing chain at the back, more common these days? The Mazda 6 is the same IIRC.

I do like your blue estate, and I agree about the non m-sport models, being more comfortable on smaller wheels :thumbsup:
 
Maybe a slightly contentious suggestion, but what about a Honda CRV with the 2.2 diesel?
A friend has had a 2010 model for 3 years and over 70k miles. Aside of a leaky injector and PAS pump (separately) it has been utterly faultless.
Actually drives quite nicely too.
 
Maybe a slightly contentious suggestion, but what about a Honda CRV with the 2.2 diesel?
A friend has had a 2010 model for 3 years and over 70k miles. Aside of a leaky injector and PAS pump (separately) it has been utterly faultless.
Actually drives quite nicely too.
Wife had a 2012 model CRV for 3 years. It was a pile of crap (for a Honda). Terrible fuel consumption and drove like a van. But ETTO. ;)
 
Gone are the days of a timing chain doing 100,000 miles+ without issues!

Is putting the timing chain at the back, more common these days? The Mazda 6 is the same IIRC.
My daily is a BMW 330i with the N52 engine that also has the timing chain at the back, but still runs fine after 130K so it just seems to be certain engines that have problems. Although not having stop/start may help, and I suspect a high compression diesel with stop/start is going to put much more strain on everything. My 123d had stop/start and the starter motor died at 77K miles. :(
 
I had a 330d Touring new in 2017. It was one of the best cars I have ever had. If your budget would stretch I would recommend four wheel drive especially if you’re using the car throughout the Winter months on a daily basis. Good luck with your search.
 
We’ve covered 170k km in our F Pace 3.0d S and it’s been completely fault-free. It seems to be indestructible, regardless what we ask of it. Whilst I’m not sure that car would be within your budget yet, have you considered a 3.0 diesel XF?
The Ingenium JLR 4 cylinder diesels are very unreliable, so I’d avoid those.
 
My daily is a BMW 330i with the N52 engine that also has the timing chain at the back, but still runs fine after 130K so it just seems to be certain engines that have problems. Although not having stop/start may help, and I suspect a high compression diesel with stop/start is going to put much more strain on everything. My 123d had stop/start and the starter motor died at 77K miles. :(
Yes I agree, I've never understood the whole stop/start theology. The stress and strain on starter motors, alternators and other components can't be as good as saving 15 seconds of petrol at every junction :geek:
The Mazda6 is a thing of beauty. :thumbsup:
I need to go look at one.
We’ve covered 170k km in our F Pace 3.0d S and it’s been completely fault-free. It seems to be indestructible, regardless what we ask of it. Whilst I’m not sure that car would be within your budget yet, have you considered a 3.0 diesel XF?
The Ingenium JLR 4 cylinder diesels are very unreliable, so I’d avoid those.
I'll have a look at the 3 litre :thumbsup:
 
I had a 330d Touring new in 2017. It was one of the best cars I have ever had. If your budget would stretch I would recommend four wheel drive especially if you’re using the car throughout the Winter months on a daily basis. Good luck with your search.
I'll be driving all year round, and I had considered an x-drive 3 series, but dismissed it as theres potential for more to go wrong, tyre wear etc.

However, considering my local councils previous gritting performance (they still probably don't look at weather forecasts properly :p )so x-drive or quattro might be back on the cards.
 
I'll have a look at the 3 litre :thumbsup:
If you’re considering a higher-mileage or older V6 diesel, make sure it’s had the timing belt replaced, it’s a fairly expensive essential service item every 110k miles or 7 years. If it hasn’t been replaced, factor it into the purchase price when negotiating.
 
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