Im 700 of the 1200 running in. When I test drove it at 26 miles I did run 2nd to 3rd over 6K. Did it several times with sales man in. He did not say go easy and yes it was cold.
Then I got it and drove it like 100 miles before reading the small print. AHH so not been near the 4K since.
If it was so important it would be maid more prominent, like a sticker on the clock then we take off, or a form we sign.
I dont think its 6 pot or 4 pot but a general message. The ECU may have some data logging and it may be just a bedding in get out for BMW possibly a blanket for all engines.
I think the brakes is key to bed in, and also clutch they wont be at full bed straight away especially if there is a bit of oil left on the faces. This goes with new pads or clutch, bed it in before needing to use it in earnest, just in case it does not do what you want it to do.
Now the post 1200/ 100mph limit.
In a straight 6 I would be zipping up to 6K with no respect to the temp, I should do but come on 6K in 3rd your well past 70mph,so its 1st and 2nd gear that we could do the damage but can we really thrash a 240+ bhp engine. For me within 3 mins of 30mph im down country roads and im running possibly 6th and flooring it to 60. I guess I should be dropping into 2nd and giving it some, but I dont.
My cleica 190 readlined at 9K did a cam lift at 6K+ to go from 140 bhp to a 190 bhp. If it was cold it would no cam lift and cut the petrol off at 7.2K
4 pots turbos
My old TT 225 which was a V5 1.8 turbo would not have full power when cold, and this also depends on air temp, so was self regulating to stop us from causing damage. I do not know yet or have seen that this is with the zds.
IF any potential damage would happen with a performance sports car then BMW would have and will implement to protect very expensive wrty claims. Lets say cuts petrol off at 6K if temp is below 90. The TT was over 10 years ago and the technology was there if needed to protect it, the celica was 14 years ago.
If something went wrong to my stock un mod 2.8 because I red lined it a few times when possibly cold my, reply would ITS A SPORTS CAR. Its designed to be run within the parameters BMW have set. I have had no information regarding user damage due to engine temperature. Infact the manual states dont let it sit running without moving to warm up.
Then looking at the temp gauge whats warm, as my dial in the old 10 only seemed to be be 2 clicks form cold 70+2 clicks = 90 oC, so is warm 90oC or 75oC+.
The same goes with cooling down, again no mention in manual about allowing the engine to run a bit after after pushing it, I can sort of see the point, I remember a motorbike with turbo when coming into service stations locking, the alu head shrinking faster than the piston and bang broken gpz engine because of them running the trubo and not enough time to cool down rubbish bad choice of materials lol, not rider abuse. BMW should be building blocks that can be running hot then suddenly cool especially in a traffic jam, ohh dam I was enjoying myself and I did not see that standing traffic in front and I have damaged the engine, I dont think so.
1066 Country
