New Caliper and bleeding brakes

dhobbs

Senior member
Just found out that my front Caliper is sticking. After cleaning and greasing it’s still sticking so gone and ordered a new Caliper.
Looking at YouTube videos it seems straightforward to replace. Couple of questions:
Do I need to clamp the brake line whilst swapping the Caliper?
As for bleeding the brakes, is it ok to do it manually?

Any other tips or advice?

Thanks
Daz
 
For what they cost you may as well fit a new flexi pipe at the same time, then you know it is good for years to come. The flexi could also be the cause of the sticking brake if it has broken down inside and is stopping the pressure from releasing. Happened on our E91.

It is advised you don't clamp the pipes as it can supposedly cause internal damage.

No reason you can't manually bleed that I know of, but it is far easier to use an Easybleed type kit. Had my Gunsons for over 10 years and used it loads of times, makes the process so much quicker.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-E...=item4af49d47f5:g:TMoAAOSwt6ZWVu-T:rk:35:pf:0

If you do change the flexi make sure you have a proper brake pipe spanner. The nipples have a tendency to round when using a regular open ended spanner, which makes the job a total 'mare.
 
Thanks
I have a non return valve for bleeding brakes but never used it before.
I’ll not clamp the hose, but good advice on replacing the hose. Is it worth getting a braided hose instead of normal ones?
 
adam1985 said:
I would second the easybleed. you can get them from halfords now too https://www.halfords.com/workshop-t...KLRVK0WOpmg0LTkAWk8aZKkREzl7j4jhoC8o4QAvD_BwE

I rated my eezybleed right up until the reservoir cap spewed brake fluid down the engine bay! :cry:
Since then I've just used a cheap non-return valve with someone on pedal duty. Theoretically you should use a coding cable to activate the ABS during bleeding to clear the ABS unit as well, but I've never needed to. If you think things are soft after bleeding without activating ABS it's worth considering.
 
Ewazix said:
adam1985 said:
I would second the easybleed. you can get them from halfords now too https://www.halfords.com/workshop-t...KLRVK0WOpmg0LTkAWk8aZKkREzl7j4jhoC8o4QAvD_BwE

I rated my eezybleed right up until the reservoir cap spewed brake fluid down the engine bay! :cry:
Since then I've just used a cheap non-return valve with someone on pedal duty. Theoretically you should use a coding cable to activate the ABS during bleeding to clear the ABS unit as well, but I've never needed to. If you think things are soft after bleeding without activating ABS it's worth considering.

Yea this happened to me once, although fortunately I always keep an old towel around the reservoir so didn't make too much mess. I put it down to over pressurising the easybleed
 
Not bled the brakes on my Z yet but on all other cars I have found that undoing the brake fluid reservoir, wrapping cling film around the hole and thread and then screwing the cap back on creates a vacuum when undoing brake lines. Its not foolproof as you do get a bit of fluid dripping out but you shouldnt loose all the fluid that way.
 
So I replaced the Caliper today. Started off ok but found the hose was twisted. Eventually sorted it out by cracking open the joint for the hose/solid pipe and rotating that a bit.

Bled it using the cheaper ezibleed gadget and got the girlfriend to press the brake pedal. Made sure no bubbles came out and after test drive all is good.

I did the cling film trick when changing the Caliper and when I eventually got it alll sorted I took the cling film off and there was definitely a vacuum created, so must of helped.

Thanks for all the advice.
Daz
 
Back
Top Bottom