need help
- Thread starter 07Z4COUPE
- Start date
99% of the true finish is in the preperation stages I:E wash/clay and polishing.
Depends what colour and look your after?
For wet and warm/glowing finish a true carnauba wax will be the way to go.
Typical waxes for a multitude of colour variants are dodo juice rainforest rub( soft entry level wax ), dodo juice juiced edition ( soft wax, rubbish boys re-mixed ), swissvax onynx( soft entry level wax ), meguiars #16 mirror glaze paste wax ( zymol titanium without the name, scent and heavier price tag ) and one I have grown fond of recently rubbishboys original wax ( hard wax ).
This is a car I did for a member on here not to long back:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17938
If its light metalics then look towards a sealant.
Sealants give that cold, hard metal look which is what is needed with silvers/golds etc.
Typical sealants that work well and look great are poorboys world exp, chemical guys jetseal 109 and finish kares fk1000p which is a paste wax sealant and gives such a fantastic finish.
For red's/oranges and warmer colours then dodo juice orange crush or poorboys world ex sealant ( carnuab based ) and nattys red paste wax layered really gets the paint hopping alternatively collinite 476s looks really nice on red also.
jUst to give you an idea of the looks.......
Picture of collinite 476s on red:
Dodo juice juiced edition on dark blue:
And pearl white:
Dodo juice orange crush on orange:
Swissvax onynx on blue:
Rainforest rub on black:
FK1000p on silver:
Depends what colour and look your after?
For wet and warm/glowing finish a true carnauba wax will be the way to go.
Typical waxes for a multitude of colour variants are dodo juice rainforest rub( soft entry level wax ), dodo juice juiced edition ( soft wax, rubbish boys re-mixed ), swissvax onynx( soft entry level wax ), meguiars #16 mirror glaze paste wax ( zymol titanium without the name, scent and heavier price tag ) and one I have grown fond of recently rubbishboys original wax ( hard wax ).
This is a car I did for a member on here not to long back:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17938
If its light metalics then look towards a sealant.
Sealants give that cold, hard metal look which is what is needed with silvers/golds etc.
Typical sealants that work well and look great are poorboys world exp, chemical guys jetseal 109 and finish kares fk1000p which is a paste wax sealant and gives such a fantastic finish.
For red's/oranges and warmer colours then dodo juice orange crush or poorboys world ex sealant ( carnuab based ) and nattys red paste wax layered really gets the paint hopping alternatively collinite 476s looks really nice on red also.
jUst to give you an idea of the looks.......
Picture of collinite 476s on red:
Dodo juice juiced edition on dark blue:
And pearl white:
Dodo juice orange crush on orange:
Swissvax onynx on blue:
Rainforest rub on black:
FK1000p on silver:
Tweed said:I thought Vicky Concours was meant for darker colours and particularly deep reds? I'm planning on getting some, should work a treat on my MerlotGAZA62 said:
It is supposed to be awesome on darker colours and red so yours should look superb but works great on my Silver car
Collonite 845 works well on all colours and has good durability here on my sisters Star Silver Astra.
On a dark grey Corsa
All my work is by hand
Holy hell... that reflection is superbGAZA62 said:
I have a fair amount of prep work to do first; got lots of swirls, so currently absorbing detailing-world to work out the best way to restore... also need to tackle my stone-chips, but the thread on them on DW is scary
Try not to get to wrapped up with all the mumbo jumbo on DW tweed.
Bottom line is you have swirl marks, how severe is the first port of call then what polishes and applications you need to use/get is next.
Wherever you go you will get mixed reviews on anything so if your interested in something and you can get sample sizes do so as getting the detailing bug can be expensive and it will spiral out of control.
If you need any advise pm me, im not full of anything other than black and white non biased opinions.
I could keep plugging dodo juice being on the authorised detailer scheme but I advise on what works.
Bottom line is you have swirl marks, how severe is the first port of call then what polishes and applications you need to use/get is next.
Wherever you go you will get mixed reviews on anything so if your interested in something and you can get sample sizes do so as getting the detailing bug can be expensive and it will spiral out of control.
If you need any advise pm me, im not full of anything other than black and white non biased opinions.
I could keep plugging dodo juice being on the authorised detailer scheme but I advise on what works.
Tweed said:Holy hell... that reflection is superbGAZA62 said:
I have a fair amount of prep work to do first; got lots of swirls, so currently absorbing detailing-world to work out the best way to restore... also need to tackle my stone-chips, but the thread on them on DW is scary
Cheers mate this one is my favorite after giving the Z a full detail
scottbt gave very good advice Detailing world is great for imformation its how i get the finish i do on my car but it can get expensive i have never deswirled my car but i do work by hand so not much chance.
Have thought about a dual polisher but i work outside so spotting swirls on a Silver car is a nightmare only really see them in bright sunlight and leads to a bad headache from the glare.
Stupid question I am sure but so far with my cars I have cleaned (2 bucket) and dried and then waxed using (at present) Megs Carnuba wax. I have recently tried claying on my van which is less of a problem if I damage it with good results I think. I have a silver Z4 and read above that ' kares fk1000p which is a paste wax sealant and gives such a fantastic finish' but I havn't used a sealant before. What is the pre-treatment before it can be applied and does anything need to be added afterwards on the top?
Paul
Paul
System goes like:
Rinse wheels
Clean wheels then rinse
Rinse car
Wash
Rinse
Clay
Rinse again
Dry
Polish
Wax/sealant
Its not neccesary to apply a sealant under wax nor apply a wax over sealant as both are durable but give differences to visual appearance.
On silver, fk1000p will look the business.
Clay isnt to duanting, like anything, take it slowly and enjoy it.
I use bilthambre clay now and its a very soft clay, one of the softest ive ever used but still very effective.
I would also recomend either poorboys world white diamond or chemical guys ez creme glaze, both are great at masking any unsightly swirls where as AG srp isnt as effective.
Rinse wheels
Clean wheels then rinse
Rinse car
Wash
Rinse
Clay
Rinse again
Dry
Polish
Wax/sealant
Its not neccesary to apply a sealant under wax nor apply a wax over sealant as both are durable but give differences to visual appearance.
On silver, fk1000p will look the business.
Clay isnt to duanting, like anything, take it slowly and enjoy it.
I use bilthambre clay now and its a very soft clay, one of the softest ive ever used but still very effective.
I would also recomend either poorboys world white diamond or chemical guys ez creme glaze, both are great at masking any unsightly swirls where as AG srp isnt as effective.
Thanks for the response. The reason for asking is the car is a 2009 and has been pretty spotless until last week when the dealer was looking for a water leak, sprayed the car and presumably left it out in the sun and now after washing it is covered in water marks. They are taking it back to have a look but when I do get it back is it better to use a sealant or the wax I have been using to protect the paintwork? I havn't had water staining on any other car I've had so hopefully a one off. Last question is you say polish before the sealent which one would you recommend - easy to use by hand.
Thannks in advance
Paul
Thannks in advance
Paul
Thanks for that I went wrong by drying my car before claying(used the meguirs clay kit with detailing spray to lubricate before claying) so if leave wet while claying is it easier??scottbt said:
I also have a few good drying microfibre towels, but have not found the best way to use these, ie sit them on car to soak up water then rub gently (thought this would cause swirls).
Any advice would be appreciated
m999psw said:
There has been a number of issues with water spots and random etchings on lots of cars recently, something to do with all this volcanic ash me thinks.
After what ive been seeing and hearing recently with all the main dealer madness im not surprised they have handed the car back to you how it s tbh.
if all else fails you can get duragloss or chemical guys water spot remover which breaks down the calcium in the water.
There are various routes you can go down with regards to polishing process.
Majority will say AG srp but its not that great and I personally vote for poorboys world white diamomd ( light colours ) or blackhole ( dark colours ) glaze.
Now, a glaze has no polishing abilities but what it does have is rich pure polish oils which will mask the swirls, far better than the fillers from srp as these are made of clay and wash away very quickly.
Another route is paint cleansers such as dodo juice lime prime and swissvax cleaner fluid, both work well and leave the paint creaking clean, you can actually see the grime on your applicator after cleansing paint with either of these products.
i still feel fk1000p is the way for you, its detergent resistant ( to a degree ) and durable of up to 1 year with good wash practice, no wax will out run it on durability.
shambolic said:Thanks for that I went wrong by drying my car before claying(used the meguirs clay kit with detailing spray to lubricate before claying) so if leave wet while claying is it easier??
I also have a few good drying microfibre towels, but have not found the best way to use these, ie sit them on car to soak up water then rub gently (thought this would cause swirls).
Any advice would be appreciated
What towels do you have?
I have never patt dried in my life and had no issues of swirls appearing, its all down to ensuring you have been seriously through with your wash routine and i use a drying aid like autosmart tango or a quick detailer like meguiars nxt speed detailer, these help the towel glide over the car better.
As for clay, I leave the car wet as it saves time when working on cars, time is of the essence some days so its quicker for me, you can dry the car by all means, clay then re-wash it doesnt really make any difference really.