N52 spark plug and coil change how to

^maybe inevitable but not normal imho.
The plugs are rated for 50k miles+ I think and should last a lot longer for a tip to melt away in such manner that it increases spark gap size measurably.
Normally the sign of wear is that on the tip the edges round off a bit (barely visible), but even that shouldnt happen within 50k miles.
The gap is critical and shouldnt change.

But my experience is mainly with bosch.
 
groovy_hippy said:
jack07 said:
Good 'how to ' Groovy.I would mention a good precautionary dab of anti seize compound on the new plug threads to help with future removal and avoid pulling thread material from the cylinder head at next change.
:thumbsup:

The use of anti-seize compound seems to be up for debate - the BMW workshop manuals don't say use it, but then other places do say use it...I didn't (neither my or my other half have even used it on our cars), but I'm not going to criticise someone who does use it. It's a bit like buttering your toast if you're having jam on it if you ask me ;-)
The first time you pull cylinder head material out on the plug thread,you will convert!
 
It's fair to say the old plugs weren't looking too well.
The electrodes were worn down yes and the gaps were bigger than the ones that went in. The old plugs just didn't look very happy IMO. They were almost 80k miles old though... as far as I'm aware, they'd never been changed prior to my ownership, and I've done nearly 40k in it....

The car is much snappier now and looks to have slightly better fuel consumption so far...probably closer to how it came out of the factory!!
 
Regarding this part:

If you have an OBDII reader or Carly, perform a reset so the computer can re-learn the new coils and spark plugs

Is there a guide on this anywhere ? I have a cheapo OBD reader..

Thanks
 
saseinlinie said:
Regarding this part:

If you have an OBDII reader or Carly, perform a reset so the computer can re-learn the new coils and spark plugs

Is there a guide on this anywhere ? I have a cheapo OBD reader..

Thanks

There is no specific adaptation for coils and plugs as far as I am aware. I know there is for knock, octane and general fuel trims (long term and short term) but I don't think it would be necessary to reset anything after changing coils and / or plugs.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
I've never seen anything specific, but it is possible to reset all adaptations.

Not through Carly though. I have a feeling he was talking about clearing fault codes perhaps, which of course means the re-learning thing is a bit of a nonsense.
 
Something to gap the plugs with (pliers and hammer) and a feeler gauge. Google how to do this, and if you wreck your plugs don't blame me ;-)

also not sure about the above, afaik the spark plugs(NGK ILZFR6D11) come ready to be installed, is it really necessary to hammer them :) ?

https://www.ngk.de/nc/en/product-finder/produktfinder/PKW/ZK_BENZINER/BMW/Z%204%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20E85/ILZFR6D11/1867/

bujie.jpg
 
Thanks for the write up!

Couple of things;
1. Why did you gap the plugs? Ngk website says they're pre-gapped - should be no need to gap them?

2. Ducklakeview fraid you're definitely wrong - the n52 throttle body is entirely a backup, under normal operation the valvetronic acts against throttle request to simulate what a butterfly valve would.
http://www.bmwblog.com/2016/07/25/valvetronic-bmws-innovative-throttle-system/
 
Ah yes, I missed the bit about gapping the plugs.

NGK website says gap should be 1.1mm :
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9823

Mine arrived with a 1mm gap... plus, reading the odd bit around the interweb, others had set theirs to 1.1mm...

And the bit about Carly - we used an OBDII reader that had a 'clear all DTCs' option. No idea if it does anything, but since we had it we did it. For sure, probably not a full on system reset!

A good couple hundred miles in and we're still doing good...
 
^thanks for the clarification - good to know you had to adjust the gap, interesting considering they're supposed to be pre-gapped!
 
groovy_hippy said:

Trying to figure out what I'd need to do it myself.
I'm not clear on the tools.

Somewhere I have read spark plug socket 14mm 3/8, here it seems to be 16mm 3/8. What is M10? I've also found 5/8 on another forum.
What is the right measure for this engine (N52)?? Do you need a special "thin wall" for this kind of tube?

The extension socket, how long does it have to be?

The gap on NGK spark plugs. Can it be left as is?

The torque wrench, is it necessary? Can it be found in any wrench sets or does it have to be bought separately?

Could you point me/us where to buy these tools in the UK? I think I could find everything on Amazon or Halfords, but I would like to avoid buying a whole set of tools that I won't use.

How much would it cost to have all the spark plugs replaced by a car dealership? I'm happy to spend more in the end if this saves time in research and work. Time is - also - money..

Thanks.
 
Don't try and use a standard short plug socket with an extension bar, unless you have a professional one that locks to the extension bar the socket will end up being left on the spark plug at the bottom of a deep hole. You can buy a long spark plug socket with a magnetic end to hold the spark plug from Halfords. I'm going to get one for my 2.0. I'm not sure if the plugs are the same size but mine are 16mm AF so I'm going to get one of these

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sockets-accessories/laser-magnetic-spark-plug-socket-10mm?_br_psugg_q=16+mm+spark+plug+socket
 
jack07 said:
Good 'how to ' Groovy.I would mention a good precautionary dab of anti seize compound on the new plug threads to help with future removal and avoid pulling thread material from the cylinder head at next change.
:thumbsup:
Just be aware that torque settings are quoted 'dry' ....the use of any sort of lubrication or anti-sieze compound can result in the over-tightening of spark plugs and other components...future heli-coiling must be avoided at all costs!
 
andyf1140 said:
Don't try and use a standard short plug socket with an extension bar, unless you have a professional one that locks to the extension bar the socket will end up being left on the spark plug at the bottom of a deep hole. You can buy a long spark plug socket with a magnetic end to hold the spark plug from Halfords. I'm going to get one for my 2.0. I'm not sure if the plugs are the same size but mine are 16mm AF so I'm going to get one of these

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sockets-accessories/laser-magnetic-spark-plug-socket-10mm?_br_psugg_q=16+mm+spark+plug+socket

OK, thanks, I found that one on Amazon as well, but I'm not sure if it's thin wall and will be fine. My engine is a 2.5 si and will probably need the 14mm instead.
 
Ducklakeview said:
Steve84N said:
It's the valvetronic motor that controls valve lift not timing. Basically it acts instead of a butterfly throttle body.

Erm, no it doesn't..

Mike

lol it always make me smile when I see your posts like this one.. short, sweet, and to the point. So much authority in so few words :thumbsup:
 
Ed Doe said:
Thanks for the write up!

Couple of things;
1. Why did you gap the plugs? Ngk website says they're pre-gapped - should be no need to gap them?

2. Ducklakeview fraid you're definitely wrong - the n52 throttle body is entirely a backup, under normal operation the valvetronic acts against throttle request to simulate what a butterfly valve would.
http://www.bmwblog.com/2016/07/25/valvetronic-bmws-innovative-throttle-system/
Its not unknown to discover bent electrodes upon opening up a new boxed plugs! ....checking the plug gap is essential unless its the Splitfire 3 electrode type....
 
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