My Z4 2.5i - saga of an auction car

I thought I'd add some pictures of my build log here. It's not so much of a build - more of a revival, saving this car from being scrapped.

A bit of history: a few years ago I owned a Z4 2.0i M sport, and enjoyed it but it was definitely lacking a bit on power compared to other cars I've had (V6 and V8s).

Sight unseen, I bought this Z4 2.5i at auction and drove it back about 100 miles. Alarm bells started ringing when the soft top didn't work, windows didn't work and there were lots of clunks from the front suspension accompanied by serious tramlining. Oh, and having to top up water several times on the way home. And the airbag light was on. Felt like I'd bought an ultimate lemon...

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I drove it about 50 miles after bringing it home, topping up every stop (lol). I then broke down on the way home while watching the custom digital temperature gauge, which spurred me into action on the car.

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I started by replacing the thermostat - it was obvious someone had undone this and not done a good job of putting it back in. Used thermostat and new gasked and temperatures on the BMW digital gauge were much more sensible.

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I snapped the temperature sensor in the process of replacing the thermostat, but it was an aftermarket part so it was replaced with original BMW.

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Remember: vaseline on the plastic connectors makes undoing them a lot easier. After more testing, the radiator and expansion tank were replaced too. Temperatures were now stable and no water system leaks, the engine felt like a peach not a lemon. Now on to the other faults...

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The next thing to do was to get a fresh MOT (only 6 odd weeks left at the point when I bought it). This is an easy way for me to know what needs doing from a safety standpoint and at the same time, given that I knew a couple of jobs were needed I could double check the MOT testers attention to detail.

It failed MOT on the front suspension bushes, handbrake and airbag light. Advisory of rear tyres but those always need replacing :P

Front suspension bushes were easy enough, got genuine BMW parts
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Handbrake was a pain. One of the problems was that the ratchet mechanism felt very strange, and non-uniform. I removed the exhaust and propshaft, all the interior trim to access the handbrake, took out the seats for a deep clean, pressure washed the carpets outside the car, and re-ground some teeth into the handbrake mechanism. Put all that together and the handbrake felt much better.

Mid-disassembly
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Took the opportunity to give the seats and carpets a good clean indoors away from the cold!!
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Before
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After
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I should have called the MOT testers and clarified why the handbrake was an issue before doing this in hindsight. When I went in for a retest, it was the same issue as before! I asked them why, they said it was the difference in efficiency from left to right that caused it to fail. D'oh.

In the process of undoing all this the downpipe bolts sheared when taking the exhaust off. It was like driving around on straight pipes, such a glorious sound but then this came up on the MOT as an issue.

Heating the bolts to begin with helps, as it softens them and expands them properly into the push fitting on the exhaust flange. It also helped the nuts break off during hammering so the whole nut/bolt assembly could fit through the flange hole.

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Bingo!
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The handbrake bell housings were undone too, which showed lots of rust. The car had been sitting for a while but I adjusted and bedded them in as per BMW service manual (handbrake on briefly at 40km/h). Removed all dust and grime from the inside of the housings:

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Now the car is MOT'd and is my daily driver. The remaining niggles are windows, roof and sound system.

Luckily I did the roof motor work on my previous Z4 so had a good idea of what to do. As the motor was corroded so badly and I didn't want to be undoing all the roof mechanism again (car is stored outdoors), I relocated the pump to the boot without a motor for now.

Motor:
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Blocked plenums being unblocked:
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The sound system really is terrible, so temporarily I've added in a Helix DSP/amplifier on a plug-and-play harness and this has improved things drastically,

So all in all - a lot of effort but this Z4 has been brought back to life! Now to slowly work on the rough bodywork... oh and fix the awful ICE.

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After a quick polish:

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Two options: sell this one now it's all running fine and buy a 3.0si, or keep working on this one as it has the iconic M54.
 
Interesting thread :thumbsup: bought sight unseen so I guess you expected some work - just not quite so much :cry:
What did you pay if you don't mind me asking?
 
Awesome work bringing a Zed back from the brink!!!

motoroller said:
Two options: sell this one now it's all running fine and buy a 3.0si, or keep working on this one as it has the iconic M54.

The 2.5i is a great engine no doubt but the 3.0si is truly something else! You will probably notice as big a jump in power from going up the the si as you did between the 2.0 and 2.5

So definately go for the si, especially if you are going to buy cheap and going to do that kind of work again I like the idea of you rescuing unloved Z4s
 
You are doing what I used to do up until a few years ago ie buy cheap , do up and run car but I have been caught out a few times. Often a car that has been as unloved as yours will have been neglected on key issues like oil changes and whilst it might seem ok now have you done a compression test to ensure the engine will not let go anytime soon. Are you prepared to say what you paid and mileage etc of car. It could be a good buy but on the other hand it could have been a stolen retrieved car dumped at an auction.
These cars can be a very good buy and good ones are not that expensive. When I got mine about 18 months ago, I took the view that because low mileage examples with few owners and good history were well priced it just wasnt worth the risk and hassle of buying cheap and keeping my fingers crossed.
Hopefully you have got a bargain and have breathed life into something that otherwise was a scrappy.
 
Great work OP! :thumbsup:
I also bought a cheapish fixer upper back in summer with a few issues but it didn't need anywhere near as much work as urs! U prob paid way less than me tho, so swings n roundabouts!
If it was mine i'd keep it.
 
Great read op!

I recently bought my e92 from BCA & it was certainly a nervous drive home! Touch wood though it's been spot on aside a few little niggles! Look forward to your progress
 
motoroller said:
I thought I'd add some pictures of my build log here. It's not so much of a build - more of a revival, saving this car from being scrapped.

A bit of history: a few years ago I owned a Z4 2.0i M sport, and enjoyed it but it was definitely lacking a bit on power compared to other cars I've had (V6 and V8s).

Sight unseen, I bought this Z4 2.5i at auction and drove it back about 100 miles. Alarm bells started ringing when the soft top didn't work, windows didn't work and there were lots of clunks from the front suspension accompanied by serious tramlining. Oh, and having to top up water several times on the way home. And the airbag light was on. Felt like I'd bought an ultimate lemon...

bIBWf7I.jpg

I drove it about 50 miles after bringing it home, topping up every stop (lol). I then broke down on the way home while watching the custom digital temperature gauge, which spurred me into action on the car.

Before
MVYn3jS.jpg

After
l63SoWH.jpg

I should have called the MOT testers and clarified why the handbrake was an issue before doing this in hindsight. When I went in for a retest, it was the same issue as before! I asked them why, they said it was the difference in efficiency from left to right that caused it to fail. D'oh.

.

Good job! Z handbrakes are notoriously a PITA. Mines ok but if I'm on a hill I have to give it a good forceful pull and then leave the car in gear to ensure it's still where I parked it when I return, hehe. On one occasion I pulled up the handbrake lever and it came out of it's position, kinda went to the side. I had to move it back onto its mount. What exactly did your handbrake fail on? I'd also be interested to know mileage and what you paid for it.
 
Thanks all!
To answer a few questions - 114k miles when I bought it, now on 117k. Most of the work was done in November / December

I have also found out the car is cat D registered so that puts a bit of a damper on things

I paid about 1550 and including parts it has cost me nearly 2000 (bushes, radiator, expansion tank, thermostat and temp sensor, and a few other bits and bobs). Quite a bargain but I know it'd be very difficult to sell.

Not sure I'd do this amount of work on another car!

The handbrake issue was difference in efficiency from n/s to o/s. This wasn't explained on the MOT sheet hence me undoing everything to get to the handbrake mechanism. At least the ratchet clicks and holds properly, bit of an OCD touch!!
 
motoroller said:
Thanks all!
To answer a few questions - 114k miles when I bought it, now on 117k. Most of the work was done in November / December

I have also found out the car is cat D registered so that puts a bit of a damper on things

I paid about 1550 and including parts it has cost me nearly 2000 (bushes, radiator, expansion tank, thermostat and temp sensor, and a few other bits and bobs). Quite a bargain but I know it'd be very difficult to sell.

Not sure I'd do this amount of work on another car!

The handbrake issue was difference in efficiency from n/s to o/s. This wasn't explained on the MOT sheet hence me undoing everything to get to the handbrake mechanism. At least the ratchet clicks and holds properly, bit of an OCD touch!!

Thanks for the update. £2000 all in so far is a good bargain for a car that cost upwards of £30,000 when it was new. And the M54 engine is a solid piece of engineering. Cat D is a bit of a sod when selling, you'll probably make close to your money back if you sell. The main thing is that you can drive and enjoy it. Was it easy to insure with Cat D?
 
motoroller said:
I don't think Cat D makes a difference to the insurance...

Most insurers will cover a Cat D, some will baulk at a Cat C... At the end of the day, an insurance company has already saved ££ by writing the car off rather than paying to repair it at more than the car was worth. I think most of them take the "swings & roundabouts" view.

I have a question though about this;
motoroller said:
I've added in a Helix DSP/amplifier on a plug-and-play harness

What is this harness/amp, any details oh, and that roof motor could well be fine after a clean and dry out, mine was as bad, if not worse when I moved it, and it's still going strong even though it was dead as a dodo on first testing it.

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
motoroller said:
I don't think Cat D makes a difference to the insurance...

Most insurers will cover a Cat D, some will baulk at a Cat C... At the end of the day, an insurance company has already saved ££ by writing the car off rather than paying to repair it at more than the car was worth. I think most of them take the "swings & roundabouts" view.

I have a question though about this;
motoroller said:
I've added in a Helix DSP/amplifier on a plug-and-play harness

What is this harness/amp, any details oh, and that roof motor could well be fine after a clean and dry out, mine was as bad, if not worse when I moved it, and it's still going strong even though it was dead as a dodo on first testing it.

Mike

I've heard about soaking the motor in petrol or diesel - may well give that a go. I gave it a dry out and have managed to get it turning manually (not tried applying 12V yet).

The Helix DSP is this one - http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/en/pp-41dsp.html - quite a nifty little box that does dsp and amplification in one go, and has subwoofer outputs. When I removed the trim I added the subwoofer wire hidden behind all the trims, but need to figure out my aims for the car before I do anything more on that side.
 
Use diesel - You don't want it going bang when you connect it up to 12v and the sparks ignite residual vapours.

I soaked mine for a bit, and then connected it to 12v and ran it whilst still submerged in the diesel, another reason not to use petrol, although technically, it wouldn't light if the whole thing was submerged (no oxygen) but not worth the risk! I ran mine for a min or so, before reversing the polarity to make it run in the opposite direction, whilst giving it a good shake. A fair bit of crud came out in the diesel. I then drained it, and used some electrical cleaner to rinse it out, before putting it into the oven, set to 90 degrees for 30 mins. I then put a touch of lube into the bearings, and it ran like a dream.

Mike
 
It doesn't say in the write up but I guess you had to bolt on a new front wing as well?
 
I will try diesel in the motor. I had left it soaked in petrol but that's evaporated now, and a black oily substance remains which can only be a good sign.

I haven't replaced the wing yet - looking out for one in the right colour. I'm using the car for commuting so don't really mind it at the moment. Come summer time I'll want it fixed up.
 
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