my first time venturing into here.....

so these buffing machines are only used for cutting compounds?? or do we use the cutting compound, then buff, then use the machine to apply a wax?? or is the final wax piece done by hand??

sorry to ask so many questions...
 
If you are just polishing then use a DA with polishing pad and polish. If you have swirls and light scratches use the cutting pad and compound then the medium cutting pad then the polishing pad with polish of choice. I apply my wax by hand using a sponge.
Once paint is at an acceptible level you will just need to wash and dry the car and then twice a year remove old wax using fairy liquid and just polish with DA and reapply wax.
 
Beedub said:
so these buffing machines are only used for cutting compounds?? or do we use the cutting compound, then buff, then use the machine to apply a wax?? or is the final wax piece done by hand??

sorry to ask so many questions...

Rotary is usually used by more skilled/experienced detailers as the cutting pad just spins in one direction which can easily burn out edges or paint if left in one spot for too long. Dual Action (DAS Pro) is the way forward for someone like me and your self, it's very easy to use and you are unlikely to damage to paint work as long as the car has been cleaned and clayed properly.

The first thing to do is clean the whole car with shampoo without wax to get rid off dirt and all dust. I then fill up a sprayer bottle with little bit of warm water and Farecla G3 Body Prep Shampoo (Halfords). I spray one panel at a time and start using clay bar/mitt on each panel until all marks are gone and the panel feels really smooth. Make sure you use plently of the lube from the spray bottle when claying and work in small section at the time. After you have clayed all panels use the same soapy solution to give the whole car quick wipe over before polishing it with compound. There is plenty of videos on how to polish cars with dual action and I would recomend something like: Poorboys SSR 2.5 Super Swirl Remover, in this price range and for beginner this will be perfect. After polish I like to do few coats of Autoglym super resin finish for the extra deep gloss finish and then to seal the effect you have to wax the car. Waxing can be done quickly by spray like Autoglym rapid wax that is really good however I feel like it doesn't last as long as proper wax. I use few layers of normal wax G3 SuperGloss Paste Wax or Autoglym HD once a year and then on normal weekly washes throughout the year I will use rapid wax just to top up the layers.
 
You're a brave man Beedub :wink:
Seriously though, some really good advice on offer - before I came here I used a sponge :o Now I use a mitt :)
 
ok guys,

one last question....

if i wash, clay the car can i polish and wax at a later date or does the car need to be polished and waxed directly after going the Clay?? Inbwetween the stages the car would be covered, and re-washed before the wax / polish is applied via a DA machine.

I've decided the DA polisher is where i want to go... I'm handy with a spanner, not so much so on the detailing side of things! the rotary seemed like running before i can walk.
 
What i do is. Dewax 1 panel then machine polish, wipe down with white spirit and dry off then apply wax. Then i do the same on the next panel. Then i give it a final wash and rewax again. Ours is outside all year round so i have to do it as the weather allows and also it means the other panels are still protected. I have even done a panel 2 weeks after doing the one before.
 
billz said:
What i do is. Dewax 1 panel then machine polish, wipe down with white spirit and dry off then apply wax. Then i do the same on the next panel. Then i give it a final wash and rewax again. Ours is outside all year round so i have to do it as the weather allows and also it means the other panels are still protected. I have even done a panel 2 weeks after doing the one before.


awesome, basically i want to clay the car, then start the polish another day or the weekend after. ( i got to do this around my son and work)
 
ok,

car has now bee thoroughly washed,

then i clayed the car, but the results weren't quite as smooth as planned, but i think for a first go its come out really well, ill have another bash it claying next wash, then I'm going to have my first go at using the DA.

Before i do anything further i need my APC to arrive with detail brush so i can clean some hard to reach areas. i then ruined all my hard work by driving the car, couldnt resist!! lovely !!

i will start posting some pics soon.
 
Hi Beedub,

Looks as though your going for it!

It can be very addictive, just read as much as you can / watch you tube , I am still learning.

I bought a cheap polisher as I am no pro. I do feel i could go deeper into laquer to make perfect, but there are some scratches. I may practice wet sanding on them.

Just keep at it. If you have garage you could do a panel at a time. However, you just want to move on.

I couldn't see pics.

I think the detailer is very good after each wash, once you have done the whole process.

Good luck & njoy :thumbsup:
 
Harpal said:
Hi Beedub,

Looks as though your going for it!

It can be very addictive, just read as much as you can / watch you tube , I am still learning.

I bought a cheap polisher as I am no pro. I do feel i could go deeper into laquer to make perfect, but there are some scratches. I may practice wet sanding on them.

Just keep at it. If you have garage you could do a panel at a time. However, you just want to move on.

I couldn't see pics.

I think the detailer is very good after each wash, once you have done the whole process.

Good luck & njoy :thumbsup:


thanks harpal, its very addictive and expensive!! lol!
 
:[/quote]thanks harpal, its very addictive and expensive!! lol![/quote]
It definitely is expensive. I have just ordered a 70mm and 90mm backing plate with polishing pads for my DA also ordered some more swisswax shield and buffing cloth another ton spent.
 
I would recomend Chemical Guys, Meguirs and 'Junkmans' videos on youtube. Some very good advice on machine polishing.

Basically, get the car clean, clay it, clean it again. Then machine polish in 2 or 3 stages. Then add a wax (natural) or sealant (synthetic) to protect the paint and make it easier to wash. Easier to wash = less scratches inflicted.

My default recommendation and personal choice is the DAS6-Pro and Meguiars microfibre pads. I've found they provide better cut than foam pads and last longer.
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/meguiars-microfiber-system/cat_114.html

Here are some pics of my zed, getting rid of the small scratches are what gives that glass effect - see how the reflections are sharper in the second picture. If only my car looked like this now :cry: but it's harvest season and covered in dust and dirt :headbang:

BEFORE

AFTER


BEFORE

AFTER
 
I have about 15 years detailing experience with high end cars, jets and yachts.

DA - Great for the weekend car guy who doesn't want to burn through the edges of the paint. Results can be awesome depending on the pad/product combo.

Rotary - For the more skilled guy who has used a DA for a few years. Use a fine mist of water, this will help the product last longer and help with manipulation around the panel. Rotary machines generate far more heat than a DA, so you have more chance of burning the clear coat/paint if it gets too warm.

Which Products? - There is a whole host of products for machines that say they are the wonder product, look for silicone free products like Koch-Chemie.

Best way to learn with a rotary? - Go spend a little cash on an old bonnet from the scrappers, learn that way. You will be amazed at the results you can gain over a DA. DO NOT practice on your own car if you are not comfortable.

Here is my Imola Red 325CI M Sport.

Mikita Rotary
Medium pad
Swissvax Medium Cleane Fluid
Swissvax Cleaner fluid professional
topped off with Swissvax HH wax. (not on public sale)

IMG_8825.JPG
 
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