my first time venturing into here.....

B

Beedub

Lifer
 Sutton Coldfield
Well after Zed fest and being convinced by certain members that i need to have a crack at detailing, now I'm pretty handy with the spanners.... but detailing... well, i don't really have a clue.... seeing some of the results and the feel of the paint on the cars that had been done was enough to convince me to have a crack but ill only be detailing once a year, no way can i be doing that for days on end every other weekend, once a year will do me and my regular clean as usual. The car spends most of its time in dry use, its covered most of it life and its a naturally very clean car due to low usage and low miles... however..... i need to know where to start so... within a budget. I'm not really interested in shiny tyres etc i just want the paint work to really have that smooth glass finish, their was a black 2.0L next to mine and it was like a mirror and the paint shined in a way my car could only dream of despite it been used ALOT more and a DD, all down to the owners very handy detailing skills.

so i need a clay bar and lube.

an easy to use buffer , best polish to use, advise on masking the car and just some general advise on where to start??? lets talk?
 
Beedub said:
Well after Zed fest and being convinced by certain members that i need to have a crack at detailing, now I'm pretty handy with the spanners.... but detailing... well, i don't really have a clue.... seeing some of the results and the feel of the paint on the cars that had been done was enough to convince me to have a crack but ill only be detailing once a year, no way can i be doing that for days on end every other weekend, once a year will do me and my regular clean as usual. The car spends most of its time in dry use, its covered most of it life and its a naturally very clean car due to low usage and low miles... however..... i need to know where to start so... within a budget. I'm not really interested in shiny tyres etc i just want the paint work to really have that smooth glass finish, their was a black 2.0L next to mine and it was like a mirror and the paint shined in a way my car could only dream of despite it been used ALOT more and a DD, all down to the owners very handy detailing skills.

so i need a clay bar and lube.

an easy to use buffer , best polish to use, advise on masking the car and just some general advise on where to start??? lets talk?
Click to expand...

Hi beedub, I'm no expert & just dabble myself but you could just as effectively use a clay mitt & soapy water instead of a clay bar & lube, it's much faster/easier and just as effective in my experience.
Best buffers for beginners are definitely DA's and not rotary machines, far less chance of burning your paintwork.
I'm sure someone will be along with far more experience than me :thumbsup:
Rob
 
It was my black car.

i have had it 3 years and got into the detailing as a hobby.

My experience -

1. Thorough wash with autoglym / anything that deep cleanses not adds wax
2. Spray detailer on small area and clay bar area until smooth / no contaminents. ( usually colours clay) You may not have too much Trydo a panel before moving on
3. wash car to remove clay etc
4 Compound i used g3 / auto glymn with a polisher bought of ebay, came with pads rtc around £80. I didnt mask off just washed off after.
5. use slow speed around 2-3 (advised by auto restore guy. I have used water on z4 but not on mini.
6.polished with auto glymn twice used polisher
7. sealed with autoglym perfection. Liquid sealer you apply then leave an hour or so. used lambs wool pad to shine.
8. while sealant is drying i usualy do the silicone on rubbers etc

if you use slow speed you shouldnt burn paint as long as you keep moving polisher. As your car is garaged etc oncea yesr is fine. A weekly wash thereafter and a detail spray as a when brings out the shine

Your car shouldn't need to much work. Next time I think i may use g3 or meguires range.

If you need demo etc let me know.

I am no expert but have picked up from reading / experimenting anc dpeaking to paint specialists
 

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some more pics

The paintwork has definitely improved since i bought car and black is really good to shine but shows dents / scratches

i have done my sons 1 series and that is solid black and it stands out loads.
 

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thanks harpal.

ok I've now got the clay mitt, G3 .... I've picked up a large microfibre towel, to start with , can i get decent results polishing by hand?? or do i need to use the buffer???

do you have any recommendations on using the clay mitt?? most are recommending using normal soapy water. am i washing the car totally THEN start panel by panel with the mitt . Then do i Re wash the car afterwards?
 
yah carpal your car just shines like nuts, due to my cars low mile and generally untouched cleaness I'd like to think it will come up pretty nice. i want to impress come the next Z fest event.
 
Beedub said:
thanks harpal.

ok I've now got the clay mitt, G3 .... I've picked up a large microfibre towel, to start with , can i get decent results polishing by hand?? or do i need to use the buffer???

do you have any recommendations on using the clay mitt?? most are recommending using normal soapy water. am i washing the car totally THEN start panel by panel with the mitt . Then do i Re wash the car afterwards?
Click to expand...

Hi beedub, I would wash the car before using the claymitt to save dragging any lose grit around the paint-after it's been mitted I just rinse & towel dry.
Some folk have managed great results just by hand but it takes a serious amount of time/effort, a DA polisher is definitely a shortcut to get rid of the swirls in the clear coat :thumbsup:
Rob
 
A DA is defiantly needed for BMW paint..

Das pro are inexpensive and work well..

It's hard and you will never achieve a decent level of correction or shine by hand

Prep is the key...

Yes use the clay mitt now you have it, but a bar is better with plenty of lube.. It's so easy to use and you can feel that all the crap is getting pulled from the paint

I would then compound with microfibre pad..
A cutting pad with meguiars ultimate compound is very easy to use, and no risk of paint burn.. The compound works until it turns to oil, then is easily removed.. No fling either..

On dark colours I would probably just move straight to a glaze...
50 cal show glaze is what I use, apply with buffer on a slow speed all over the car and leave to dwell for 5 mins at least... Then remove..

Next a sealer or wax..

Put on by hand... There are a million different waxes... All personal choice, but for bang for buck I would use naviwax ioncoat dark or fusso King of gloss..

Both on £25 is and they will last forever .. I find the naviwax a little easier to remove..

A weekends work will see your paintwork improve by at least 80%..
 
Definately need to prep the paint. You will also need to remove any waxes and polish. On recomendation from a detailer on zroadster i wash with Fairy Liquid before claying as this removes the polish. I have both the DA and Rotary and find that the DA is good to keep the paint at an acceptable level but for deeper swirls and light scratches it wont remove them for that i use a rotary. I also dont use the backing plates that came with them as they have no give. I use the 3M stuff Green Cutting with green pad, yellow top fine cut with yellow pad and blue top ultimate polish with blue pad. Also i only use the 4 inch ones as the 5 and 6 inch tend to be too big. Only do a section at a time. I will mask off an area around 18 inch square. I did mine with the rotary before zedfest and it took around 36 hours in total. When you do the bonnet start in the middle and work your way out. Mask off the edges were panels join and keep away from the edges as this is where the paint is thinest
 
jeez the world of detailing

good points abovr

i may try some ideas above sometime

has anyone tried wet sanding on scratches

Bedub you have your work / research cut out. your car will look feel amazing as it is like new anyway. the sealer then detailer will give it a glass look

njoy :thumbsup:
 
This is the size i use on both Rotary and DA and find it more manageable than the bigger ones and also because it is slightly padded it allows you to get to the edges without damaging the paint
http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/flexipads/ultra-soft-dual-action-backing-plate-70mm.aspx
Then just get a cutting pad medium pad and polishing pad
 
Harpal said:
jeez the world of detailing

good points abovr

i may try some ideas above sometime

has anyone tried wet sanding on scratches

Bedub you have your work / research cut out. your car will look feel amazing as it is like new anyway. the sealer then detailer will give it a glass look

njoy :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


that glass look is what I'm after, I'm looking forward to seeing the car, it deserves a detail now after all these years, being kept in a dry garage uncover most of its life has definitely done it no harm condition wise, but that isn't enough to just rely on that, it needs alittle work to get that glass look id like to see, like harpals car, which actually outshone my car by quite some margin. lol.

I'm searching for a spray on detailer for the shuts and water gully's, i will use a detail brush to apply, can anyone recommend?
 
can anyone recommend one of these please, the buffer I've purchased is beyond my skill level and will probably lead to me damaging something...

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/machine-polishing/dual-action-da-machine-polishers.aspx
 
Check this link out for making your own Sun Gun for less than £30. Using one of these is a good way to find out how many swirls and scratches you have.
https://zroadster.org/threads/how-to-make-your-own-sun-gun.13698/
 
What can be achieved. Took me about 40 mins to get rid of the scratches on show
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Beedub said:
Smartbear said:
Hi, what buffer have you purchased, is it a rotary or a DA machine?
Rob
Click to expand...

it's a rotary and I'm not skilled enough to use it comfortably yet.
Click to expand...
Use it on low speed only. I have only just started doing this and have not caused any damage. Like i say use it on lowest setting untill you get used to it, only do around 18" sq area at a time. Only use a small amount of cutting compound, i just put it on the pad and move it around till the pad surface is covered then start the cutting process by going side by side and up and down overlapping where you have just come from. Then change pad to a medium and do the same to remove the scratches the cutting compound causes then go to the polish pad and finish off. Once you have done a panel the confidence will come.
I would prob do the boot top as it is an easy area to start on.
I am only in Nottingham if you want to come to mine i can run through it with you.
 
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