My 3.0
- Thread starter boyced
- Start date
well, unless your microswitch is dead 
The roof was almost fully closed. I was just waiting for the front motor to latch it shut.
Tried to manually open it today as it's finally stopped raining. Pulled the handle with the red ring pull turned it to 90 and also pulled the handle towards the bottom of the boot.
Seems to get stuck just,
Tried to manually open it today as it's finally stopped raining. Pulled the handle with the red ring pull turned it to 90 and also pulled the handle towards the bottom of the boot.
Seems to get stuck just,
Attachments
Attleborough, Norfolk
Don't try to force it!boyced said:
That suggests to me that the bypass plunger may be seized and not opening the ports. If you try to force it from there you are pushing against a hydraulic lock and could end up bursting a pipe.
Mind you, as you say the motor is in the boot, you can check that yourself.
Three tiny allen screws to renmove the plastic casing that the cable goes into on the motor. Lift it away and you'll see a small brass plunger. It protrudes about 2mm from the pump head. You should be able to push it in with your finger and it should pop back out again. If it won't move, try turning it with a 5mm socket until it frees up. With it pushed in you should be able to move the roof by hand.
Yup, that hall sensor looks properly located to me. If you look at the hinge bar just outboard of it you'll see it has a metal projection, pointing downwards. Under that you will just about be able to see the other hall sensor.
The photo of the cable is showing the lever depressing the bypass plunger. When the red ring is put back in it's normal position, that lever should be fully out to the right (in your photo). I can think of no way the cable can come out once it is properly located. So yet again, I hark back to the method with which the whole thing was relocated in the first place. Having publicised that he can do the job in 45 minutes, far faster than anyone else, and having done quite a few now myself, I suspect the whole thing is wrenched through as it is.
A more conscientious approach is to remove that cable and then refit once the motor is sitting neatly in position. This gives the opportunity to check the plunger is free to move and that the cable is not twisted.
I would suggest you follow that cable along the left side of the roof frame, where you will find a white plastic adjuster. Turn that until the lever sits fully to the right without any tension on it.
However, none of that solves your problem does it?
Now you have the roof fully down, does it go back up ok, at least to the point of latching? If it stops at the front again, check the locking hooks. Make sure they are aligned with the slots and not catching on the edge.
The photo of the cable is showing the lever depressing the bypass plunger. When the red ring is put back in it's normal position, that lever should be fully out to the right (in your photo). I can think of no way the cable can come out once it is properly located. So yet again, I hark back to the method with which the whole thing was relocated in the first place. Having publicised that he can do the job in 45 minutes, far faster than anyone else, and having done quite a few now myself, I suspect the whole thing is wrenched through as it is.
A more conscientious approach is to remove that cable and then refit once the motor is sitting neatly in position. This gives the opportunity to check the plunger is free to move and that the cable is not twisted.
I would suggest you follow that cable along the left side of the roof frame, where you will find a white plastic adjuster. Turn that until the lever sits fully to the right without any tension on it.
However, none of that solves your problem does it?
Now you have the roof fully down, does it go back up ok, at least to the point of latching? If it stops at the front again, check the locking hooks. Make sure they are aligned with the slots and not catching on the edge.
Yes but that’s the one that signals it down so not likely to be the problem.boyced said:
So it sounds to me as though it would go up ok. Then it gets to the point where the rear motor stops and the front one is supposed to kick in.
That is the bit that isn’t happening.
When it is locked shut, does it unlatch from the front if you try to lower it? If so, that rules out a fuse stopping power to the front motor.
Will it open properly but not close?
Just trying to narrow down exactly which function is not working.
