MOT Failure - Need help to ID parts needed

[Dr. Zed]

So just got my car back from the MOT with two failures and two advisories;

Failures
-brake pipe corroded rear (both)
-anti roll bar ball joint dust cover no longer prevents ingress of dirt (offside front and nearside rear)

Advisories:
-oil leak (news to me)
-Suspension arm pin/bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (offside front -rear bush)

For the anti roll bar dust covers can I just replace the drop links? I assume this is what they mean as the tester said the drop links had gone.

As for the suspension arm. Is this the wishbone they're referring to? And if so, can I replace that rear bush or do I need to replace the whole wishbone? I highlighted the part I think the advisory is talking about below

 

[enuff_zed]

Hi mate,
The drop links are easy to change but I'm confused as the rear have no dust covers and are not a ball joint, so you may need to seek clarification on that?
Brake pipes speak for themselves really.
I suspect the suspension bush is in fact the lollipop bush (number 8 in the diagram)
I would check the rest of the joints as it may not be much more work to change the lot.
Not actually done it myself yet, but Stuart (bigwinn) has so check with him.

 

[Dr. Zed]

Hi mate,
The drop links are easy to change but I'm confused as the rear have no dust covers and are not a ball joint, so you may need to seek clarification on that?
Brake pipes speak for themselves really.
I suspect the suspension bush is in fact the lollipop bush (number 8 in the diagram)
I would check the rest of the joints as it may not be much more work to change the lot.
Not actually done it myself yet, but Stuart (bigwinn) has so check with him.

I did notice that as I was looking for parts. It's literally a piece of metal with two bushings in it for the rear. The drop links on the front should be easy since I just did the shocks (I posted a picture of it in the 'what have you done to your car btw if you were curious what your assistance resulted in )

I've pinged Stuart a message regarding the pipes (for a third time as I keep putting it off after asking for help)

Might just need to crawl under there and have a look. If it is number 8, or any of the other pins/bushes, can they be replaced individually or is it easier to justt replace the whole wishbone?

Thanks mate!

 

[enuff_zed]

Hi mate,
The drop links are easy to change but I'm confused as the rear have no dust covers and are not a ball joint, so you may need to seek clarification on that?
Brake pipes speak for themselves really.
I suspect the suspension bush is in fact the lollipop bush (number 8 in the diagram)
I would check the rest of the joints as it may not be much more work to change the lot.
Not actually done it myself yet, but Stuart (bigwinn) has so check with him.

I did notice that as I was looking for parts. It's literally a piece of metal with two bushings in it for the rear. The drop links on the front should be easy since I just did the shocks (I posted a picture of it in the 'what have you done to your car btw if you were curious what your assistance resulted in )

I've pinged Stuart a message regarding the pipes (for a third time as I keep putting it off after asking for help)

Might just need to crawl under there and have a look. If it is number 8, or any of the other pins/bushes, can they be replaced individually or is it easier to justt replace the whole wishbone?

Thanks mate!

That's what I was meaning about the wishbone. Pretty sure it is number 8 which can be replaced on its own, but usually they are replaced as a set so chances are the rest is just as old.
When you do the drop links you may find the ball joint starts to spin. Wedge an open-ended spanner in the back to hold it. Depending on the make it'll be different sizes but usually around the 16-18mm range.

 

[Dr. Zed]

That's what I was meaning about the wishbone. Pretty sure it is number 8 which can be replaced on its own, but usually they are replaced as a set so chances are the rest is just as old.
When you do the drop links you may find the ball joint starts to spin. Wedge an open-ended spanner in the back to hold it. Depending on the make it'll be different sizes but usually around the 16-18mm range.

Autodoc has a full set of tie rods, drop links and wishbones for both sides, front, for 170. MS Germany, never heard of them mind so don't know of the quality.

Any recommendations for brands for replacing the drop links and the lollipop? I'll crawl under there tomorrow and have a gander. I don't remember them being persished as I checked all them when I did the shocks!
Yeah, it's a 16 or 17 if I remember correctly. Might have been me that damaged it with the spanner at the back, now that I think of it :?

 

[enuff_zed]

That's what I was meaning about the wishbone. Pretty sure it is number 8 which can be replaced on its own, but usually they are replaced as a set so chances are the rest is just as old.
When you do the drop links you may find the ball joint starts to spin. Wedge an open-ended spanner in the back to hold it. Depending on the make it'll be different sizes but usually around the 16-18mm range.

Autodoc has a full set of tie rods, drop links and wishbones for both sides, front, for 170. MS Germany, never heard of them mind so don't know of the quality.

Any recommendations for brands for replacing the drop links and the lollipop? I'll crawl under there tomorrow and have a gander. I don't remember them being persished as I checked all them when I did the shocks!
Yeah, it's a 16 or 17 if I remember correctly. Might have been me that damaged it with the spanner at the back, now that I think of it :?

Not a make I've heard of tbh.
Drop links on their own I think I've usually used Lemforder but again, there's not much in it really.

In fact, it's your money of course, but if the lollipops go you'll hear a knock on turning and rough ground. At the moment they're probably fine.
I think if it were me I'd get clarification on exactly which ball joints they mean at the rear, then just do the drop links and the brake pipes.
The rest can follow once you've got the ticket.

 

[Zedebee]

Not helping much, I know, but I always ask the tester to show me anything that needs attention when the car is up in the air, so I know what it is!

Given that both my cars just passed their MOTs without advisory, maybe this also discourages the tester from being picky.

 

[Dr. Zed]

Not a make I've heard of tbh.
Drop links on their own I think I've usually used Lemforder but again, there's not much in it really.

In fact, it's your money of course, but if the lollipops go you'll hear a knock on turning and rough ground. At the moment they're probably fine.
I think if it were me I'd get clarification on exactly which ball joints they mean at the rear, then just do the drop links and the brake pipes.
The rest can follow once you've got the ticket.

Same, never heard of them. But since Meyle are 250 for two wishbones and lollipops in a kit and the MS Germany is 170 for wishbones, lolli's, tier rods and drop links, I'm not convinced of their quality.

I can't hear anything atm. Just figured while I was in there (again), might be worth changing them, Wish it was the two front drop links that went, that'd be easier!
I'll get some clarification tomorrow when they open and just work on the drop links for now. Then I'll get them to do the brake pipes or if I'm feeling brave, might do it myself.

 

[Dr. Zed]

Not helping much, I know, but I always ask the tester to show me anything that needs attention when the car is up in the air, so I know what it is!

Given that both my cars just passed their MOTs without advisory, maybe this also discourages the tester from being picky.

I was thinking that but I know many testers aren't keen with having moguls walking around their garage floors
I was also too busy chatting to the owner. Probably should do that in future though, good idea.

 

[enuff_zed]

There is definitely no ball joint on the rear so either they've picked the wrong item from the dropdown list or they're on a con.
Avoid doing the rear drop links unless you really have to. Bit of a pain to get off and even worse to fit the new ones.
Easiest way is to drop the whole ARB so you can move it about to get some leverage. It won't come right out but you can move it from side to side. If that's the case then obviously would be daft not to replace the ARB bushes too.

 

[colb]

Regarding the rear brake pipes I went through this 2 years ago with an advisory on the MOT. The original lines from where they emerge in the rear neaside wheel arch and run to the top of the arch where the first flex hose connection is cleaned up with some emery cloth and was painted with black smoothright paint. The original flex hose runs down to the backplate where there is a short length of hard pipe to the second flex pipe that runs to the caliper. It is usually the short hard line that gets corroded badly. The options are to replace the flex lines with stainless braided hoses that do away with the short hard line. Sets of hoses are available on ebay that include 2 hoses for each rear wheel and single hoses for the fronts. You can get a single length braided hose for the rears but it will require a nylon tie wrap to secure it as the original fixings won't work with the new braided hose. Thats why I went with the two hose fixing and used the original securing clips. Old post here with further details https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130889
The single extra long rears can be found here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274755823762?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW%7CPlat_Gen%3AE85%7CModel%3AZ4&hash=item3ff8b92892:g:xMAAAOxyVLNSwuEt&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFufpp6Y2jLLU1cgmy7h1DX6ImQUT5ux9NNgADMasPv9DSQQf4xJFmHDZRzbr4pr99DLaLJtwPlMqxf%2B9Xw5BETopPjLzJ4T%2FCv0Ex7EjDcw%2BUYKavn8UjuWdF4n0u2bGr9j3CWTr2ycuxOc1%2BBk4ERqjzB4daWzv2q%2FB9BA%2F7HDOz33qRb5r%2ByoxcDalXCrZlZNidQBl9vf7RewWDrLU7X6Dq991VN2xK37I0GpOh%2FW%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7763urYYA

 

[Dr. Zed]

There is definitely no ball joint on the rear so either they've picked the wrong item from the dropdown list or they're on a con.
Avoid doing the rear drop links unless you really have to. Bit of a pain to get off and even worse to fit the new ones.
Easiest way is to drop the whole ARB so you can move it about to get some leverage. It won't come right out but you can move it from side to side. If that's the case then obviously would be daft not to replace the ARB bushes too.

Well I'm thinking they either selected the wrong item and he meant to put the front for both the offside and nearside, or he means the bushes are gone. I'm not sure if there's a separate selection for them to choose which differentiates between drop links that have bushes or ball joints. They know I work on my own cars so I don't think they'd purposely try con me.

Figured the rear drop links are just as easy as the front, no? the fronts are super easy.
Well if the rear 'ball joint' really is gone, then I assume he meant rear bushes, in which case I'll need to replace them anyways.

 

[Mr Tidy]

My previous Coupe had advisories 3 years running for corroded rear brake pipes just behind the plastic cover in front of the passenger side rear wheel, so it was time to get them replaced!

I managed to get them replaced in Kunifer as OEM ones would only corrode again, cost more and fitting the driver's side one involves dropping the fuel tank.

Good luck getting your MOT.

 

[Dr. Zed]

Regarding the rear brake pipes I went through this 2 years ago with an advisory on the MOT. The original lines from where they emerge in the rear neaside wheel arch and run to the top of the arch where the first flex hose connection is cleaned up with some emery cloth and was painted with black smoothright paint. The original flex hose runs down to the backplate where there is a short length of hard pipe to the second flex pipe that runs to the caliper. It is usually the short hard line that gets corroded badly. The options are to replace the flex lines with stainless braided hoses that do away with the short hard line. Sets of hoses are available on ebay that include 2 hoses for each rear wheel and single hoses for the fronts. You can get a single length braided hose for the rears but it will require a nylon tie wrap to secure it as the original fixings won't work with the new braided hose. Thats why I went with the two hose fixing and used the original securing clips. Old post here with further details https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130889
The single extra long rears can be found here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274755823762?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW%7CPlat_Gen%3AE85%7CModel%3AZ4&hash=item3ff8b92892:g:xMAAAOxyVLNSwuEt&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFufpp6Y2jLLU1cgmy7h1DX6ImQUT5ux9NNgADMasPv9DSQQf4xJFmHDZRzbr4pr99DLaLJtwPlMqxf%2B9Xw5BETopPjLzJ4T%2FCv0Ex7EjDcw%2BUYKavn8UjuWdF4n0u2bGr9j3CWTr2ycuxOc1%2BBk4ERqjzB4daWzv2q%2FB9BA%2F7HDOz33qRb5r%2ByoxcDalXCrZlZNidQBl9vf7RewWDrLU7X6Dq991VN2xK37I0GpOh%2FW%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7763urYYA

Thanks for the info mate. It's definitely the lines themselves, and not the rubber hoses at the calipers. He told me the lines where they sit in a bracket (wherever that is) are badly corroded to the point where it's basically a stupid idea to drive the thing!

 

[Dr. Zed]

My previous Coupe had advisories 3 years running for corroded rear brake pipes just behind the plastic cover in front of the passenger side rear wheel, so it was time to get them replaced!

I managed to get them replaced in Kunifer as OEM ones would only corrode again, cost more and fitting the driver's side one involves dropping the fuel tank.

Good luck getting your MOT.

Luckily it doesn't look like the fronts are an issue. As far as I know there's a connection piece which you can use to couple in new section. Will have to do that.

 

[Mr Tidy]

Luckily it doesn't look like the fronts are an issue. As far as I know there's a connection piece which you can use to couple in new section. Will have to do that.

I seem to remember that inside the plastic cover only one of them has a joint, so the other one needs to be cut and a joint added.

 

[Dr. Zed]

I seem to remember that inside the plastic cover only one of them has a joint, so the other one needs to be cut and a joint added.

What do you mean, 'other one' mate? Sorry, little confused as to what you mean.

 

[Mr Tidy]

Both rear pipes are inside the same plastic cover, but I'm pretty sure only one pipe has a joint in it so the other pipe needed cutting and a joint installed. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Dr. Zed]

Both rear pipes are inside the same plastic cover, but I'm pretty sure only one pipe has a joint in it so the other pipe needed cutting and a joint installed. Hope that makes sense.

Yes, makes sense. Odd design choice mind.. But thanks

 

[colb]

Sounds like you are going to have to cut out the line under the plastic channel that runs from front to rear and use a new joint to run new pipe to the rear, if the line that crosses the rear subframe to feed the offside caliper thats going to be a fiddle but can be done without dropping the rear subframe or fuel tank. Its a matter of getting the old pipe out and then feeding a new pipe length through with enough emerging on the offside to route it to its mounting bracket in that wheel arch. Take a good look at that short length between the rubber flex hoses they are bound to be rusty and pitted as much as the line emerging from the plastic channel in the nearside arch. After mine cleaned up and were painted I put some split plastic conduit on the pipes emerging into the wheel arch to protect them from future grit blasting the wheel throws at them.