MOT due - bulb out warning but all bulbs fine

j3nks79 said:
Carly can code out all bulb warning lights

It can?
I definitely cannot find that in my app.
It's also not showing me that there's an issue. When I run a scan, the warning light on my dash for the bulb out doesn't even register with Carly.
 
Dr. Zed said:
j3nks79 said:
Carly can code out all bulb warning lights

It can?
I definitely cannot find that in my app.
From their website says:
Voltage monitoring >

Turn signals front voltage monit. 1/2
• on
• off
Voltage monitoring for turn signals front. Might cause flickering of LED lights. (codable in LSZ)

Turn signals front voltage monit. 2/2
• on
• off
Deactivate with ‘Turn signals front voltage monit. 1/2’ to disable flickering of LED lights. (codable in LSZ)
 
So I coded out 1/2, nothing. Then both and still nothing. Warning light is still on my dash and the bulbs are still flashing fast.. So correct me if I'm wrong but coding these to off shouldn't that basically tell the car not check for bulbs being out?
 
Even with all the bulb warnings coded out my car still had fast flash and bulb out light on dash with all bulbs working and only running led side lights and the angel eyes, so In my experience a ground issue which I had due to the connector always getting wet can cause the car to act like a bulb was out and not coding out the sidelights check also causes this.

My guess is there is a poor connection somewhere or the load resistor has failed, at this point I would take the bumper off disconnect both lights and swap them around and see if it's the right light or the wiring on that side of the car.
 
Dr. Zed said:
So I coded out 1/2, nothing. Then both and still nothing. Warning light is still on my dash and the bulbs are still flashing fast.. So correct me if I'm wrong but coding these to off shouldn't that basically tell the car not check for bulbs being out?
Believe so, *but* I have never used Carly, only NCS.

Put it back to default and try the rear to rule that out. The sides might not be monitored.
 
Joez4 said:
Even with all the bulb warnings coded out my car still had fast flash and bulb out light on dash with all bulbs working and only running led side lights and the angel eyes, so In my experience a ground issue which I had due to the connector always getting wet can cause the car to act like a bulb was out and not coding out the sidelights check also causes this.

My guess is there is a poor connection somewhere or the load resistor has failed, at this point I would take the bumper off disconnect both lights and swap them around and see if it's the right light or the wiring on that side of the car.

This may be my only option now. So if the fault moves across I can assume it's wiring within the unit itself or the connector attached to the unit. If it doesn't move, it's likely to be the car end. Makes sense.

It's driving me insane. There's nothing wrong with the car and I just want it MOTd
 
Scooba_Steve said:
Dr. Zed said:
So I coded out 1/2, nothing. Then both and still nothing. Warning light is still on my dash and the bulbs are still flashing fast.. So correct me if I'm wrong but coding these to off shouldn't that basically tell the car not check for bulbs being out?
Believe so, *but* I have never used Carly, only NCS.

Put it back to default and try the rear to rule that out. The sides might not be monitored.

Tried that too. Nothing is working.. Very odd
 
Is a bulb failure warning light an MOT fail or just an advisory?
Have you thought about swapping the flasher unit from a load sensitive one to an LED one? They have a fixed flash rate regardless of the load or type of bulbs being used, some have an adjustable flash rate that you can fine tune. The downside is that you lose the fast flash rate that tells you a bulb might have gone.
Could be worth a try for under a tenner to get you through the MOT and then you can chase your fault at your leisure
 
Dr. Zed said:
Joez4 said:
Even with all the bulb warnings coded out my car still had fast flash and bulb out light on dash with all bulbs working and only running led side lights and the angel eyes, so In my experience a ground issue which I had due to the connector always getting wet can cause the car to act like a bulb was out and not coding out the sidelights check also causes this.

My guess is there is a poor connection somewhere or the load resistor has failed, at this point I would take the bumper off disconnect both lights and swap them around and see if it's the right light or the wiring on that side of the car.

This may be my only option now. So if the fault moves across I can assume it's wiring within the unit itself or the connector attached to the unit. If it doesn't move, it's likely to be the car end. Makes sense.

It's driving me insane. There's nothing wrong with the car and I just want it MOTd

Yeah that's the theory,

Taking the bumper off isn't as daunting as it seems it's actually quite straightforward and once off you'll have much better access to the lights and wiring and be able to have a good look and maybe figure out what's going on
 
Joez4 said:
Yeah that's the theory,

Taking the bumper off isn't as daunting as it seems it's actually quite straightforward and once off you'll have much better access to the lights and wiring and be able to have a good look and maybe figure out what's going on

Oh, no issues taking it off. It's been off many a times! :D
Just hassle for something as trivial as this!
 
Stevepj said:
Is a bulb failure warning light an MOT fail or just an advisory?
Have you thought about swapping the flasher unit from a load sensitive one to an LED one? They have a fixed flash rate regardless of the load or type of bulbs being used, some have an adjustable flash rate that you can fine tune. The downside is that you lose the fast flash rate that tells you a bulb might have gone.
Could be worth a try for under a tenner to get you through the MOT and then you can chase your fault at your leisure

It's a fail.
And you lost me completely with this :roll:
It sounds like it'd work based on what I can understand but I have no idea how I'd go about it!
 
It's a simple plug and play, unplug the original flasher unit from where it lives behind the dash and plug in the new one.
Old style units depend on a certain load to make them flash at the correct speed, a blown bulb or bad resistor with LED bulbs lowers the load being sensed and causes the indicators to flash faster on the bad side.
 
Stevepj said:
Old style units depend on a certain load to make them flash at the correct speed, a blown bulb or bad resistor with LED bulbs lowers the load being sensed and causes the indicators to flash faster on the bad side.
I have LEDs in some bulb applications, with no load resistors. Checks coded out and no issues with flash rate, because they're not being monitored in either state.
So turning the checks off should rule that out, assuming Carly does that correctly.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
Stevepj said:
flasher unit
Not familiar with this, where is it? Not something I've seen in the wiring diagrams, I thought all the functions just went through the LCZ.

I'll rephrase that, it's plug and play on quite a few now BMW vehicles.
My fault for assuming BMW would use a couple of quid, replaceable relay to control the indicators rather than an expensive lighting control module
 
Stevepj said:
My fault for assuming BMW would use a couple of quid, replaceable relay to control the indicators rather than an expensive lighting control module
They're German, I don't think there is a word for simple :lol:
 
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