MOT due - bulb out warning but all bulbs fine

BumpyZ4 said:
You can also code the car so that it doesn't even check for a bulb out condition.
Well you'd only do that if you are using LED bulbs and don't want bulb out warnings. But if you are getting warnings for standard bulbs, you better find out why there is a warning.
 
x-driver said:
BumpyZ4 said:
You can also code the car so that it doesn't even check for a bulb out condition.
Well you'd only do that if you are using LED bulbs and don't want bulb out warnings. But if you are getting warnings for standard bulbs, you better find out why there is a warning.
Should get him through the MOT. Then he will have time to fix it.
 
Apologies for disappearing all. Was away with work.

I'd rather try get it fixed properly instead of taping over lights or coding stuff out.

I have used a code reader. Oddly it's telling me there's nothing wrong.. Because, well there isn't.. All lights work fine.

I do have this indicator stalk to go in but I just have little faith it'll fix the issue. It also seems like a pain to do so I'm sort of reluctant to start pulling it all apart...
 
Aftermarket lights have very poor connectors on in my opinion and even with all the bulb checks coded out you can still get fast flash and bulb out light due to a ground issue with the lights,

Also even if all the checks are coded out I have had to enable the checks again and immediately disable them to make the car happy.

The tape suggestion was just to get you through an mot, and coding out the checks is necessary if using led bulbs or wiring up the angel eyes.
 
Dr. Zed said:
Scooba_Steve said:
Dr. Zed said:
All the bulbs are fine, none of them are out.
There are two front indicator bulbs, do they *both* work?

I have aftermarket lights so I only have one bulb in the front cluster
Not sure if I mentioned here on in another thread. The aftermarket ones have load resistors under the whole headlamp unit (to mimic the loss of the extra OE indicator bulb).
 
Most code readers wont be helpful - but like I've already said BMWScanner 1.4 will tell you which bulb has turned the light on even if that bulb hasn't actually failed.
 
Thanks for the info on the aftermarket lights. They've been in the car for nearly 3 years now and never given issue. Obviously I know things can change but honestly wouldn't know where to start with this if that's the issue.

I don't have a Scanner 1.4 so getting to one is a pain since the MOT ran out now :(
 
So the on-going saga continues.

Ive now replaced the indicator stalk which didn't fix it. I've also moved all the bulbs around and nada. I also turned the indicator on and then played around and jigged the wires around to see if it jumps back to working. My low tech way of checking for breaks :P

I did notice the issue only starts after the first two flashes. When I turn the ignition and put the right signal on, it works for about two flashes and then starts going quicker.

Still no issues with the hazards. This results in all corners flashing at the correct speeds...

Anyone have any ideas at all?
 
Dr. Zed said:
I did notice the issue only starts after the first two flashes. When I turn the ignition and put the right signal on, it works for about two flashes and then starts going quicker.
Right side only?
Sounds like one of the bulbs is failing the hot check. It could honestly just be on the way out, so all new indicator bulbs (though changed one at a time e.g. front first, then side, then rear) would be a cheap and effective next elimination step.

It could still be the load resistor at the front, maybe heating up and causing issue.

Dr. Zed said:
Still no issues with the hazards. This results in all corners flashing at the correct speeds...
Hazards are a separate signal (I think) with no impact on the bulb checks / flash rate.
 
[ref]Scooba_Steve[/ref],

Yup, right side only. Is this a common issue on the right side?

I've moved the bulbs around and it didn't change anything. It's been like this for a while so if it was on the way out, I'd expect it to be dead by now.

What's the hot check you mentioned?
As for the load resistor, where is this located and how do I test it?

This is such an annoying issue. At least when a part fails, you know what it is. I hate chasing electrical gremlins like this...
 
Dr. Zed said:
I've moved the bulbs around and it didn't change anything.
All of them?

Dr. Zed said:
if it was on the way out, I'd expect it to be dead by now.
Perhaps but still a maybe.

Dr. Zed said:
What's the hot check you mentioned?
There are 3 coding options for the bulbs. Cold check, hot check and check control. If you have LEDs you will see the bulbs being checked on ignition on, the car pulses the bulbs to check them. LEDs will illuminate and flicker rapidly for a second or two.
Hot check is where they are monitored constantly while on.
Check control is the trigger for the dash error.

Dr. Zed said:
As for the load resistor, where is this located and how do I test it?
Under the aftermarket headlight. You might be able to swap them over to test, I don't have the pinouts to hand.
I wouldn't be surprised if it had burnt out, if so it should be replaceable (with something better).
 
Have you disconnected the light in question and checked for any moisture on the pins in the connector like I mentioned before.

This can usually be done from the engine bay, if you can change all the bulbs without removing the light then unplugging the connector should be easy.
 
[ref]Scooba_Steve[/ref],

Thanks for all this information mate!

Well I moved the 4 indicator bulbs around. Just to see. I then moved the side bulbs just to be sure. Still issues with the right indication.

I have LEDs low beams, DRL and angel eyes but the high beams and indicators are halogen. The lows do indeed flicker for a few seconds on start up.

I'll pull the back of the indicator and check the connectors again. I did check but I'll give it a better look.

It's driving me insane!
 
Joez4 said:
Have you disconnected the light in question and checked for any moisture on the pins in the connector like I mentioned before.

This can usually be done from the engine bay, if you can change all the bulbs without removing the light then unplugging the connector should be easy.

I did, yes. But I'll do it again as this appears to be narrowing down to the most likely cause.
 
Dr. Zed said:
[ref]Scooba_Steve[/ref],

Thanks for all this information mate!

Well I moved the 4 indicator bulbs around. Just to see. I then moved the side bulbs just to be sure. Still issues with the right indication.

I have LEDs low beams, DRL and angel eyes but the high beams and indicators are halogen. The lows do indeed flicker for a few seconds on start up.

I'll pull the back of the indicator and check the connectors again. I did check but I'll give it a better look.

It's driving me insane!
You're welcome, electrical issues are a pain.
The fast flash can only be due to the indicator signal, so it has to be a fault with that somewhere.

One way to isolate the location would be if you have INPA/NCS and could code out the checks one at a time, e.g. turn off the hot and cold checks for the right hand headlight. Wouldn't isolate connector issues but would show exactly where to focus.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
You're welcome, electrical issues are a pain.
The fast flash can only be due to the indicator signal, so it has to be a fault with that somewhere.

One way to isolate the location would be if you have INPA/NCS and could code out the checks one at a time, e.g. turn off the hot and cold checks for the right hand headlight. Wouldn't isolate connector issues but would show exactly where to focus.

I hate them. I'd rather it was just a shock or something that had a leak or cracked coil or something.

Ive just pulled the indicator out again and can see a small bit of green on one of the exposed parts of the wires. It's not much but it's literally the only bit of corrosion I can see.
Unfortunately all I have access to is carly which I don't know whether it'd do it. It seems to lack a lot of features it's meant to have...
 
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