Manifold cracked
- Thread starter TIMMOS29
- Start date
Is it a RHD car?
I realise this may not be entirely helpful as it's not a 2.0litre, but I managed to remove my M manifolds without removing the steering column...
You'll need a 1/4" ratchet, deep sockets, shallow sockets and extension bar for removing the heat-shield and a few ancillary bits, and the exhaust manifold nuts. You will also need to jack the car up to remove the manifold to mid-section connections - these might be a nightmare if they're corroded and haven't been removed/moved in a long time. Soak them in WD40 early if you can before trying to shift them. I'd recommend planning on replacing the fire rings when you're there, and better to have replacement nuts/bolts for the flanges just to be safe if you do snap one.
You will almost certainly need to remove the undertray too (easy enough to do), to give you enough acess to pass the manifold down and out underneath the car.
The lambdas might be a bit of a twat to shift, again I'd get them doused in wd40 early in the job, but take care to avoid getting the WD40 into the sensor/probe bit or you'll knacker it. Depending on space, you might be able to disconnect the lambda wiring and leave them in the manifold until you've removed it from the engine/car. It'd be a lot easier to remove these in a vice than on the car!
Other than that, it's just a bit fiddly as I say, but I managed it on my own with basic tools and a bit of patience
I realise this may not be entirely helpful as it's not a 2.0litre, but I managed to remove my M manifolds without removing the steering column...
You'll need a 1/4" ratchet, deep sockets, shallow sockets and extension bar for removing the heat-shield and a few ancillary bits, and the exhaust manifold nuts. You will also need to jack the car up to remove the manifold to mid-section connections - these might be a nightmare if they're corroded and haven't been removed/moved in a long time. Soak them in WD40 early if you can before trying to shift them. I'd recommend planning on replacing the fire rings when you're there, and better to have replacement nuts/bolts for the flanges just to be safe if you do snap one.
You will almost certainly need to remove the undertray too (easy enough to do), to give you enough acess to pass the manifold down and out underneath the car.
The lambdas might be a bit of a twat to shift, again I'd get them doused in wd40 early in the job, but take care to avoid getting the WD40 into the sensor/probe bit or you'll knacker it. Depending on space, you might be able to disconnect the lambda wiring and leave them in the manifold until you've removed it from the engine/car. It'd be a lot easier to remove these in a vice than on the car!
Other than that, it's just a bit fiddly as I say, but I managed it on my own with basic tools and a bit of patience
TIMMOS29
Member
Ed Doe said:Is it a RHD car?
I realise this may not be entirely helpful as it's not a 2.0litre, but I managed to remove my M manifolds without removing the steering column...
You'll need a 1/4" ratchet, deep sockets, shallow sockets and extension bar for removing the heat-shield and a few ancillary bits, and the exhaust manifold nuts. You will also need to jack the car up to remove the manifold to mid-section connections - these might be a nightmare if they're corroded and haven't been removed/moved in a long time. Soak them in WD40 early if you can before trying to shift them. I'd recommend planning on replacing the fire rings when you're there, and better to have replacement nuts/bolts for the flanges just to be safe if you do snap one.
You will almost certainly need to remove the undertray too (easy enough to do), to give you enough acess to pass the manifold down and out underneath the car.
The lambdas might be a bit of a t**t to shift, again I'd get them doused in wd40 early in the job, but take care to avoid getting the WD40 into the sensor/probe bit or you'll knacker it. Depending on space, you might be able to disconnect the lambda wiring and leave them in the manifold until you've removed it from the engine/car. It'd be a lot easier to remove these in a vice than on the car!
Other than that, it's just a bit fiddly as I say, but I managed it on my own with basic tools and a bit of patience
Really apreciate the help !!!
Yes its a RHD car, apparently the manifolds on the N46 are prone to cracking and sure enough mine has cracked..I just really need to know if i can undo the top steering shaft UJ and the shaft will slide off the splines??? so i can move it away.
Again many thanks
Attleborough, Norfolk
Yes it will.TIMMOS29 said:
Bolt out, then use a pry bar or fat screwdriver with a hammer to open out the slot a bit.
Then tap the UJ down towards the steering rack and it'll come free. Hopefully this'll give you enough room. If not you have to remove the undertray and the reinforcing plate to get access to the lower UJ and remove the intermediate shaft completely.
Don't allow the shaft to over extend or it may damage the internal bearing.